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My 86 K5 build

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Very slowly. Still not sure why it's running rough/rich/doesn't want to idle. I need to go through everything again and see where the issue is. If there is anyone in the nearby Denver area that is good with this that wants to help out, let me know :whistle: :laugh:
 
Kay86K5 said:
Very slowly. Still not sure why it's running rough/rich/doesn't want to idle. I need to go through everything again and see where the issue is. If there is anyone in the nearby Denver area that is good with this that wants to help out, let me know :whistle: :laugh:
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My brother has a 91 burban that is having, what sounds like, the same issues. We have replaced every sensor we can think of. As well as throttle body gaskets and other misc seals. If you get any where on yours let us/me know.
 
Will do. Going to check all my grounds pretty heavy too, plus go through everything we spliced into my original harness to make sure we didn't miss anything
 
Kay86K5 said:
Will do. Going to check all my grounds pretty heavy too, plus go through everything we spliced into my original harness to make sure we didn't miss anything
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Grounds was going to be our next direction too. Hope we get some answers soon......:sign29:
 
I'd be more then happy to come down and help if I can get a day off sometime. I'm more familiar with ls fuel injection and carbs but it can't be too bad. Are you getting any code's?
 
Finally moved into a new world.....got myself a trailer

It's an 18'x83" wide, 7000lbs, with trailer brakes on both axles. Deck is in really good shape, all lights work....all in all I'm really happy with it



That is my DD (for now)/Tow rig. It's a 1996 GMC 3/4 ton with a 7.4 liter 454, 4l80e, 14bff rear with 4.10's. It's a good truck and pulls well



And this was a nice bonus. The guy was a wheeler that just sold his rock crawler. So he already built ramps to go over the wheel wells on both sides.



I'm very happy with it...and it was a good price. I plan on doing a few things like add some wood treatment to help the deck last longer, add a spare tire mount, and probably some d-ring mounts and some nice straps
 
Kay86K5 said:
Finally moved into a new world.....got myself a trailer

It's an 18'x83" wide, 7000lbs, with trailer brakes on both axles. Deck is in really good shape, all lights work....all in all I'm really happy with it



That is my DD (for now)/Tow rig. It's a 1996 GMC 3/4 ton with a 7.4 liter 454, 4l80e, 14bff rear with 4.10's. It's a good truck and pulls well



And this was a nice bonus. The guy was a wheeler that just sold his rock crawler. So he already built ramps to go over the wheel wells on both sides.



I'm very happy with it...and it was a good price. I plan on doing a few things like add some wood treatment to help the deck last longer, add a spare tire mount, and probably some d-ring mounts and some nice straps
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NICE FIND SIR!!!:waytogo:
 
GWeakland620 said:
NICE FIND SIR!!!:waytogo:
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Thanks. I'm pretty excited about it. Despite what I hear from a lot of people around this site, I actaully want my rig to be a trailer queen. My whole life everyone has told me having a rig that can be on the street too is always better. But I started realizing that if I do that, I really have built a rig that doesn't perform that great (or as good as it can) offroad, and also doesn't go down the road very comfortably too. My last trip out, I was able to borrow a trailer....that was my first experience with wheeling a rig that you tow to the trail. All I can say is it was the best experience I have ever had. I had less reserve on the trail, cause if I broke something, I could just put it on the trailer and bring it home. Plus, it kinda sucks wheeling your rig hard all day, and then having to drive it home a couple hours (which in CO, most of the trails are at least an hour away from me). I truly want my rig to be a dedicated off-road rig, and I finally have a means of doing that now :D
 
Kay86K5 said:
Thanks. I'm pretty excited about it. Despite what I hear from a lot of people around this site, I actaully want my rig to be a trailer queen. My whole life everyone has told me having a rig that can be on the street too is always better. But I started realizing that if I do that, I really have built a rig that doesn't perform that great (or as good as it can) offroad, and also doesn't go down the road very comfortably too. My last trip out, I was able to borrow a trailer....that was my first experience with wheeling a rig that you tow to the trail. All I can say is it was the best experience I have ever had. I had less reserve on the trail, cause if I broke something, I could just put it on the trailer and bring it home. Plus, it kinda sucks wheeling your rig hard all day, and then having to drive it home a couple hours (which in CO, most of the trails are at least an hour away from me). I truly want my rig to be a dedicated off-road rig, and I finally have a means of doing that now :D
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I have always trailered my rid as well. The stress of not worrying about driving your rig back home if you break something is far greater that someone calling you a trailer queen. I can say honestly 38.5's, H1 beadlocks, lockers and rebar reinforced wheel lips doesn't make for a smooth ride down the highway :D.
 
78SWB said:
Vey nice! I like the tow rig as well.
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Thanks. When are you getting your trailer so you can come wheel in CO with me? :D

GWeakland620 said:
I have always trailered my rid as well. The stress of not worrying about driving your rig back home if you break something is far greater that someone calling you a trailer queen. I can say honestly 38.5's, H1 beadlocks, lockers and rebar reinforced wheel lips doesn't make for a smooth ride down the highway :D.
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No joke man. After wheeling all day on a rough trail, the last thing I want to do is bounce down the highway on my bias ply swampers :haha:
 
Nothing against trailer queens here. If I could afford a tow rig and trailer I would for sure. Then you can have wayyy more fun :thumb:
 
I might have missed this because I going through the thread on my phone, but why did you replace the rear-front (rear hanger of front end), and not move it?
 
cliles said:
I might have missed this because I going through the thread on my phone, but why did you replace the rear-front (rear hanger of front end), and not move it?
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First off, the stock hangers only allow the use of a 7/16 bolt. This is fine for most applications, but when you start wheeling hard, these tend to brake. By going to Kert's hanger (or ORD's hanger too) it allows the use of a 9/16 bolt. Much stronger. Also, when I did my 52 swap, it changed the shackle angle to the 45 degree angle. This puts a lot more stress on that upper bolt, hence why I went to a 9/16 bolt. As far as why I didnt move the hanger...well thats because my shackle angle was already about perfect if you ask me...so why would I change it by moving the hanger? :D
 
Kay86K5 said:
First off, the stock hangers only allow the use of a 7/16 bolt. This is fine for most applications, but when you start wheeling hard, these tend to brake. By going to Kert's hanger (or ORD's hanger too) it allows the use of a 9/16 bolt. Much stronger. Also, when I did my 52 swap, it changed the shackle angle to the 45 degree angle. This puts a lot more stress on that upper bolt, hence why I went to a 9/16 bolt. As far as why I didnt move the hanger...well thats because my shackle angle was already about perfect if you ask me...so why would I change it by moving the hanger? :D
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I am not trying to argue about this, I really just am that slow and have a particular interest because I am trying to do the same thing.

So going back to your post #84, the shackle angle looks good to me prior to the DIY4X install, but I dont know shat. You mentioned that a 45 angle was bad, so you beefed up the bolt, but didnt move the hanger bc the shackle angle was fine? So does that mean the same angle which was previously bad is now good because of the increased strength of the larger bolt?

What is the desired shackle angle or range?
 
cliles said:
I am not trying to argue about this, I really just am that slow and have a particular interest because I am trying to do the same thing.

So going back to your post #84, the shackle angle looks good to me prior to the DIY4X install, but I dont know shat. You mentioned that a 45 angle was bad, so you beefed up the bolt, but didnt move the hanger bc the shackle angle was fine? So does that mean the same angle which was previously bad is now good because of the increased strength of the larger bolt?

What is the desired shackle angle or range?
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I didn't think you were trying to argue, so no worries :waytogo:

Just as you said, once I installed the abomb and did the 52 swap initially, the shackle angle was almost perfect in my opinion (what you were referring to on post #84). When I did the swap, I just left the stock hanger and the 7/16 bolt in there (mainly because I didn't want to spend more money at the time). I ran it like that for a good 8 months or so. What I was trying to say before is that when you change the shackle angle to the desired angle (like I did) it puts increased stress on that upper bolt. I'm not saying you can't run the 7/16 bolt and make it work. I ran it for those 8 months just fine. However, if you really start to beat on your rig, that bolt will find its limits. I wanted to start beating on mine harder and knew I would brake that bolt, so went with DIY4x's hanger just for peace of mind.

So, I was not saying the 45 degree angle is bad....its really good! But, it just puts more stress on that upper bolt. So if you really want to beat on it, you probably want to change the hanger and get the 9/16 bolt up there. If it is for street and light wheeling, you will probably be fine. Heck, my brother with Rockwells and 44" swampers with 52's in the front ran the stock hanger and 7/16 bolt for a while....but he just changed his hanger the other week too :D

I hope all that makes sense. Please ask more questions if you have them. I will try my best to answer them
 
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