CK5
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My best friends girl...

Long story....
Run the 56s backwards. Do it now before you need a new driveshaft and shock mounts. You’re probably in for a new tailpipe anyway. Do it now DO IT NOOWWWW!!

:D just saying, push the axle back now and save money in the long run
 
wish I had a press! The first one I fought to get the bushing out drilling holes around it (didnt have a hole saw) then had hell getting the sleeve out. After that, just took all out at once. Hard part was finding something the same size as the sleeve to push it out. sockets and grade 8 washers did the trick......




Run the 56s backwards. Do it now before you need a new driveshaft and shock mounts. You’re probably in for a new tailpipe anyway. Do it now DO IT NOOWWWW!!

:D just saying, push the axle back now and save money in the long run


I took all the exhaust out anyway, but do I need to push the axle back that far? I have zero rates and planned to do 1.5” back with that. I read somewhere that by flipping the springs, it creates more axle wrap?
 
56" backwards = 4" push back of the axle .

the m1009 white blazer i built for std setup but 1" setback via new spring perches cause we went from a k30 truck axle to a 1/2 ton blazer combo . the 1" push back centered the axle real nice .

if your going to do crazy flex then maybe yes push back . but d.d and trails i would say the 1"-1.5" back is a good compromise .
 
56" backwards = 4" push back of the axle .

the m1009 white blazer i built for std setup but 1" setback via new spring perches cause we went from a k30 truck axle to a 1/2 ton blazer combo . the 1" push back centered the axle real nice .

if your going to do crazy flex then maybe yes push back . but d.d and trails i would say the 1"-1.5" back is a good compromise .


I didn’t really wanna push the axle back that far. I would like it centered in the well. I won’t be doing crazy flexing or extreme crawling, just want to make it an all
Around capable rig. I have 465/205 combo, I’m doing all this to replace the 6” skyjacker lift and blocks in rear it had. will I run into driveshaft length issues with the new setup?
 
Finally made some progress in the last week. Tryin to make time before work to get a little done at a time. Spent all last week pulling the springs apart cleaning and painting. Took a few hours this weekend to finish wire wheeling and paint underneath body and frame. Got springs, shackle flip and axle back in!

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By those pics, do my springs seem ok? They were a 7 leaf pack plus overload, I originally took the #5 spring out, but the bolts that came with the zero rates weren’t long enough so I went ahead and pulled the #6 as well (wasn’t feeling well and didn’t want to drive across town to the hardware store just wanted to get the axle in!!). I also flipped the overloads. I thought I’ve seen other members running 5 leaf 56s but wanted to see what u guys think? Do the springs look ok with the weight of the blazer on there? I’ve never ran 56s so no experience with em. I’m on the fence about pulling them back apart and putting a leaf back in. Does anyone here run a 5 leaf pack?
 
Ok you talked me into it, put another leaf back in for piece of mind. I tend to overthink things.....I think:dunno:

still need to replace sending unit and reinstall gas tank, order some brake lines, spacers and put the 24 bolts and 37s together. Then I can move forward to front end

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I run 6+overload 56's in the rear and 6 leaf 52's up front...

Plenty of flex and rides good.

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Fought with the inserts on the 24 bolts and got two cleaned up, painted, and greased the s#!t out of the o-rings, seems ok. No leaks yet. Waiting on the wheel spacers. Just excited to get them on and have the truck sitting on its own tires and off the jack stands! :D
I actually gained 2” of suspension height over the 6” block lift (was ass heavy about an inch lower than the front with the block lift). 3” in total with the tires.
I can start pulling the front apart now....

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Wheel spacers came in.... I don’t think JB weld can fix this. :eek1:

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