CK5
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My Junkyard build......York mount made

Got some more work done today. Do you think I have enough bracing to the frame? I am going to add more bracing to tie the supports together. I used a 2x6x1/4 for the slider and 2x2x1/4 for the bracing.

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I got some more done today on the passenger side. I was able to drop the door/floor section in one piece this time. Here it is if anyone is curious about where to cut. Not really a whole lot needed. I used a torch, sawsall (dont be cheap on the 10" blades...), and cut off discs (dont be cheap on these either) on my grinder. Took me 1.5 hrs counting breaks to watch NASCAR ;). The inexpensive Blades and cut off discs are cheap for a reason. They dont last long.

I suppose I learned their isnt really one "way" to do this. Im not good with numbers and I cant even draw a stick figure, so don't be ascared to dive in to it if you have been leery.

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Don't scrap those rocker boxes. Lots of rust belt guys would love to have them. :waytogo:
 
Today I relocated my front rear hangers to accommodate my 56" springs. I used my plasma cutter with gouge tip to cut the forward facing body mount. I used plasma because I didnt want to cut through the frame which is under the mount. I made a plate out of another frame and plated the whole area. I still need to clearance more of the mount so the shackle clears. I moved mount back approximately 2". Im all in know so Im going full hydro I ordered his kit and pick it up Tue. Weird thing is I ordered from Co. so I pay no sales tax BUT the company is going to drop ship from Fresno Ca. which is only 40 min from me. http://www.addictedoffroad.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=90_91&products_id=176 I need to go 8" ram and build my own pump mount but other than that everything else is what I need.

Last pic is the angle prior to moving hanger. Rig had no motor or front clip.

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What the?
Looks like you are using a body lift bush in place of the factory bushing, but the factory bushings are different heights. Did you cut the rest of the bushings down?
 
What the?
Looks like you are using a body lift bush in place of the factory bushing, but the factory bushings are different heights. Did you cut the rest of the bushings down?
Yeah, I cut the others to fit. They are temporary until I figure out what height I'm gonna go with. Im gonna go solid mount.
 
Picked up the full Hydro kit today. I ordered it from Addicted Offroad in Co (I think he in Co) so no tax paid, and picked it up 45 minutes later in Ca. Hows that for shipping? Just kidding, he dropped shipped it from Trail Gear in Fresno Ca which is about 30 minuets away. Didnt even have to pay for gas. Wife was already in Fresno going to school so she swung buy and picked up my package. http://www.addictedoffroad.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=90_91&products_id=176

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I am in begining to install the ram for full hydro. I am going to put it behind the axle. I will weld to the axle tube on drivers side but need a way to secure the pass side ram brace. I really dont want to weld on the diff housing. Do you think that I could incorporate a mounting bracket using the top spring plate bolt hole where the sway bar used to atach to? Or even make a new spring plate that is thicker so I could weld to it? OR, I was also thinking about making a bracket that bolted to the front of the diff cover and running it up and over the diff to a mounting plate for the ram. Do you think the spring plate sway bar bolt hole would be strong enough by its self?
 
Take pics of how you want to mount this thing. Im not understanding why you cant get the entire brace on the tube even if you angle the leg back to the tube.
 
Spring plate mounts are not a good idea and the sway bar mount is defiantly not a good idea.

The spring plate is not a torsional connection it is a compression connection if that makes any sense.

I have to tighten my spring plates before I go wheeling just about every time.
 
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Today I made a mount using a combination of other peoples pictures. I decided to mount it a different way than I have seen so we shall see if it works. I still have to finish it by adding a corner brace and shelf securing the right and left tube braces for side to side strength....or at least that's what it said in the book :rolleyes: Its ugly but I was able to use scrap that I had lying around.

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It clears by 3 1/2". When springs compress the pan moves down and to rear. Not the best pic angle either :doah:AND I dont have the tran/Tcase in position. Its about 5"-6" too low.
 
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Finished the mount today and got ram installed. Hopefully it will be strong enough in this position :dunno: as opposed to the standard flat mount method. I was a little leary about strength so I ended up cutting the original mounting surface by about 1/3. I welded another 1/2" mounting plate to the 1/2" original plate I cut. This also gave me more than enough oil pan clearance.

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That looks safer :waytogo: I had my diff put a hole in my oil filter, so I am always looking out for those things.
 
I would add some gussets to that from front to back down to the tube right where the ram ends come out of the body. Just cut a notch in them to clear the shaft its self.
 
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