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My SAS'd and hacked up 92 GMC

I think a big stacked plate design trans cooler would do a much better job for you than the old tube and fin type you are running now. Love the build and progress, that is a sweet little rig!
 
Put the grill back in, it really helps with the radiator getting covered like that. And a small electric fan is how I keep my tranny cooler cooled, works good. But really 200* for easy driving not long drives isnt going to harm it, its when it gets above 220* for longer periods of time that it starts to cook itself. Remember, originally all trannys are cooled/heated by the lines in the radiator coolers. Engines normally run between 190 to 210ish depending on the model so 195* in the tranny isnt going to do any damage. I shoot for 175* constantly and thats about where mine stays with the electric fan turning, but I also have a stacked plate cooler like that was mentioned, which it in itself would really benefit you, and use that tube and fin one for your PS.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I will look into the stacked plate coolers but would prefer to stay with this setup just from a cost stand point but all is cheaper then another trans rebuild.
With the 35's and 4.56 the temps never broke 160-170*, I was hoping that the 5.38's would drop the temps back down when turning the 38's but it seemed to make little difference.

I did pull the electric fan setup from a 2000ish chevy Malibu that a buddy was junking a while back thinking I may have some use of them. Any chances on making one of the fans work for the trans cooler? Mounted on the front side to push the air through it better, as there is no room behind it.
 
Grabbed the electric fans today, I think I will only try to work with the low speed one. A quick test tonight showed that when wires switched around so that they push air vs pull, the output is not great, with most air flow going out sideways due to the shape of the blades. I'm not sure if a tight shroud would help or if they are a loss cause.

 
Last week I swapped out the milky diff fluid for some fresh stuff and painted the covers while they were off.







Then loaded it up and logged 200 miles on the weekend.













 
No big updates on the truck, got out one more time in the mud with it in late September






Then it was time to clean it up and get it ready for hunting season







Added a couple of 4" LED lights in the front bumper




 
Its now parked for the winter, no major plans it just needs a rebuild of the front wheel bearings/seals, spindle bearings and seals, a good tuneup and hopefully tackle the hydro assist and get it working.

Some random pics








 
Awesome pictures! Looks like a fun rig! :waytogo:

I really like the one with your little girl hunting! :thumb:
 
Hey if you get a chance can you snap some pics of your front shackle hanger setup for the SAS? Trying to get some ideas.
 
Here is one I had on my photobucket from when I first did the SAS. Hangers are just the front hangers off the rear suspension from a K5. They are not quite the right width and it causes some stress on the shackles bushings. The truck hangers are a better fit.

 
Hmmm that looks like a simple way to do it. I was thinking about running shackles up front to keep it lower. I want like 2" of lift.
 
Hmmm that looks like a simple way to do it. I was thinking about running shackles up front to keep it lower. I want like 2" of lift.

My personal preference: but I woun't run a shackle in the front. Here is an article that goes over the pros and cons of the forward and rear shackles. It's jeep based, but relevant http://www.jeeptech.com/susp/elkcahs/
 
Cool build.
As far as the trans goes I've tried a lot of different setups and my end all be all final setup that runs so insanely cold was to bypass the radiator loop and install a Tru-Cool 40,000GVW trans cooler.
Fluid runs out of the trans, up to the Tru-Cool cooler mounted in front of the radiator and back to the trans.

Being that you live in a cold climate you might want to keep it running through the radiator to help warm it up and then run it through the cooler. Either way, about $100 and that cooler just flat works. I think I bought mine on eBay but just search for it.
 
Thanks for the info Avery. I bypassed the factory cooler when I first installed the aftermarket larger cooler, I'll look into upgrading the cooler come spring.

For now the truck is parked in the snowbank till warmer weather comes to work on it. I need to do all new bearings & seals in the front axle and I would like to get the hydro assist rigged up.



Before welding on any tabs for the ram I have been thinking I would like to drill out the knuckles and run 5/8" (or go 3/4"?) heim joints and DOM tubing for the tie rod. I then could mount it on top of the knuckles and gain a little bit of clearance under the tie rod.
Anyone have experience with using heims in the mud and a little bit of road driving, do they last? how about having the hydro assist ram pushing them, would a 5/8" heim joint be strong enough?
Last question is I have seen some people mount the ram to the diff cover. Would a stock cover hold up or tear apart? What about plating it in the mounting area to spread out the stress?
 
We've had some decent weather lately and I was able to get a little work done on the truck. Hydro Assist and all new wheel & spindle bearings are now done.
New ram mount.

New pump and steering box with the top cap and end capped drilled and tapped

All done. Feels great going down the road, nice and light steering. There is still to much snow to get out on the trails.

I'm going to get a reamer and upgrade to the GM TRE's and get some 1.5" .250 wall DOM tubing for the tie rod, as the factory ford one is all bent and rubbing the ram and diff cover.
This is how the inner bearing on the drivers side looked when I tore it apart.

Last week I bought a 03 TrailBlazer LTZ (4.2L, loaded, heated leather seats) for $1000 and the plan is to swap the axles, springs, tires and tcase from the 92 into it next winter if I can get it running up to par.



 
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