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Need pics-Tire Carrier Bumper

The guy that owns that blazer is a good friend of mine and we're building one for my new blazer as we speak. I'm hoping to have it done in a few weeks.
 
Mine - 2 swing gates, both supported by the latches. I will be inspecting on the spindle today and will note the diameter of the spindle.


2435546.jpg
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/2435546.jpg
 
For a tire weighing 100 lbs accelerating at 1g (bump or drop) would exceed the yield strength of mild steel (likely the bumper material not spindle). These calculations are based on the tire 38.5" from the spindle, middle of truck and spindle as far outboard as the side of the body. Spindle 6" tall and 1" dia. You have to trust me on this, I don't feel like writing out the equations. It's not the static weight, its the vertical acceleration up and down from bumps that multiplies the weight of the tire combined with the lever arm resulting in catastrophic failure.


I've noticed that most of these designs are single shear. Read less area to distribute the force. Making it double shear will half the felt stress. For those who have square tubing or channel for bumpers could put the pivot on the face of the bumper and easily have double shear. Think massive door hinge for the concept. Not to mention lowering COG a hair. This might also help those burbs with barn doors by keeping the pivot point below the swing of the doors.
 
steve_kibbe said:
Is this the red k5 you're talking about?:D

no, that one has too much bling. :grin: are those fake beadlocks? good grief!

j
 
DPI said:
One thing that would help with weight distribution, when it's closed atleast. Is to make sure the carrier is not being totally supported by the spindle.

If the total weight of the carrier is riding on the spindle when it's closed, then I can see the fatigue being an issue.

There is a ton of leverage especially the further the tire is from the spindle. So you would want to keep the tire as close to the pivot point as possible.

This is why I had TJ (Big83Chevy4x4) add a solid latch to my swing-away carrier. It just seems like too much weight shaking around. The "1000lb" rating has nothing to do with using it in this application. We put a pin in the horizontal plane to prevent the swing arm from moving up and down AND a screw-down in the vertical plane to hold it all tightly to the main bumper. Holding it at both ends greatly reduces the stresses and the movement.

Also, make sure in your designs that you incorporate a safety to prevent your latch from backing out and releasing the carrier.
 
Damn you guys, damn you all straight to hell I say. (J/K)

But really, now I'm paranoid.

I started out with my bumper design to limit failure, but have made many changes as I found problems with different things.

Here's how it started:
LetsRock.jpg


It's got a 1500# trailer spindle. Solid latch with a padlock to keep the handle from releasing. I kept the tire as close to the spindle as possible, and the tire is mounted as low as I felt comfortable. It's a 37" MT/R spare.

My first change was to move the tire to the center of the carrier. I found that the truck was sitting lower on the passenger side with the tire that far over to the passenger side.

The next issue I ran into was the tire being too low. On approach to a steep climb the spare would drag. So, I moved the tire up higher.

This is how it looks now:
125887517.jpg


After reading this I'm kinda realizing that I have basically taken out all of the things I designed in to help the spindle in the beginning. The only thing I have going for me is that the spindle is mounted on the face of the bumper. I notice now in its latest phase the tire vibrates and jiggles a lot. Eek, I'm getting nervous just thinking about it. I can just picture the whole carrier falling off and bouncing onto someone's hood @ 60mph.:eek: :yikes:

I've thought about the DPI stinger style in the past, but it was for someone else's bumper. Now I may do it for mine. I've come to realize I'm not going to use the gas can carriers anyways.

I did some research and it wouldn't be too hard. You can get the components from ORD. I was looking at using their greasable bushings and they have tabs and tubes for the bushings. I think DIY has the metal parts, too.

The only thing I'm stuck on is the latch system for that style. I don't think Poison Spyder's method would work on a K5. I've looked at DPI's and theirs looks complicated, but maybe that's because I don't understand it.

And I hope you don't take offense to me referencing your stuff so much Daniel, I only do it because I know you aren't selling them anymore. At least last I knew you weren't.
 
This is what we did on my :o XJ:o .

The latch holds the swing section tight to a peice of angle iron while the end of the swing section sits on the other side of the angle iron. With the latch being adjustable it can be made very tight and dosn't move at all.

DSC02831-2.JPG

DSC02834.JPG
 
I just had the old SEC rear carrier rebuilt with a bigger shaft. The original broke going down the road in morning rush traffic. Fortunately it bounced across the road cleanly to the other side without hitting anything. I used a larger axle this time. I am trying to get the spare out to make room for the new family addition. In the mean time I am waiting on someone to make a carrier similar to DPI's fold down. Jesse @ http://www.blazenoffroad.com/ doaes some nice bending. I will patiently wait for one from him.
 
The spare tire carrier absolutely has to be supported on the other side and ours is and always has been. Also, when you install the tire carrier on to the bumper you shouldn't think of it as a wheel bearing and just snug it. It needs to be pretty tight.

As for the latching mechanism, I've only ever used an "L" shaped bolt that tightens the spare tire carrier assembly down on the other side. I don't like the over center latches. I've seen them bounce open too many times to trust that.

We make our own hubs right here in the shop. I buy the spindles and bearing kits.

So far I haven't heard of anybody having trouble with them.
 
JIM88K5 said:
Is that a 4x4 Iron made set up ? Looks good.

Yep, I could kick myself for not having them do a swing away on the opposite side to put gas cans and the Hi-Lift on while I was at it. They went out of business which frosts me because I can't find anybody willing to make a doubler crossmember setup like they had.
 
cybrfire said:
The spare tire carrier absolutely has to be supported on the other side and ours is and always has been. Also, when you install the tire carrier on to the bumper you shouldn't think of it as a wheel bearing and just snug it. It needs to be pretty tight.

As for the latching mechanism, I've only ever used an "L" shaped bolt that tightens the spare tire carrier assembly down on the other side. I don't like the over center latches. I've seen them bounce open too many times to trust that.

We make our own hubs right here in the shop. I buy the spindles and bearing kits.

So far I haven't heard of anybody having trouble with them.

just out of curiosity what do you charge for the spindle? Have any of your customers reported any failure and can you send some close up pics of your latch system?
 
Here is the one I made w/1000lb trailer spindal & eyebolt 'latch'.
gate1.sized.jpg

under construction
P1010002.sized.jpg

Complete...kinda dark..I can't find a better pic right at this moment. The tire sits higher than most like for visability but I wanted to get the tire out of the way to keep it from dragging or hitting the ground at savier angels and such. It is solid and doesn't move much at all while wheeling.
Works for what I need:D
 
Heres mine. Built with smooth trailer bearings. Can easily handle 40 inch plus tires. It was made by Kennesaw Mt.

Topless.jpg
 
atlantak-5er said:
That's pretty neat. If I was going that route, I would definitely make it myself; that's pricey!
 
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