Welcome to the CUCV club! M1009 trucks are a bit different from the other CUCV rigs. Yes, you have axles from a late 70s-era 3/4-ton truck. Lockouts are a good idea. They can be from quite a range of year/make combinations (my lockouts came off of a mid-90s F150). Warn's application chart will be a help if you decide to pull lockouts off of some other rig.
3.08 gears aren't nearly as bad as Martin makes them out to be, but he's right in saying that you probably have 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Having owned GM diesel trucks with both ratios, I think that's too much gear if you want to be driving on the highway without O/D. There are folks that use such gears, but the 6.2 engine is really sweet from 1500-2000RPM. Keep it in its happy range while cruising, and 20MPG becomes fairly routine. So if you want a good-mileage DD, keep it the way it is (or possibly add O/D), and it will be economical and reliable transportation. The low-end torque is cool, too.
Swapping in a 350 isn't a particularly hard task, if you have all the parts lying around. You already have a fuel return line (if you're going TBI), so that's a plus. Wiring may be a headache, as you will either have to convert to 12V or modify your belt setup to accept the second ground-isolated alternator. There are numerous other things, but nothing huge. Read through this thread if you're interested (and do all the steps backwards)
Also, gearing will be significantly different. A 6.2 may be torquey with 35" tires on 3.73 gears, but a 350 won't be. Your ride will feel more anemic, as the 350 doesn't generate low-end power nearly as well as the 6.2 does. This may or may not be an issue for you in your intended purpose.
The ignition lock cylinder moves a rod that runs along the top of the steering column and actuates the actual ignition switch (behind the dash). This rod can stick on things, or the lock cylinder can get stuck.
33" tires are already pushing it for stock height (not much articulation before you hit on the front end). 35" tires would rub on the front inner fenders quite quickly if you don't have some amount of lift.
3.08 gears aren't nearly as bad as Martin makes them out to be, but he's right in saying that you probably have 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Having owned GM diesel trucks with both ratios, I think that's too much gear if you want to be driving on the highway without O/D. There are folks that use such gears, but the 6.2 engine is really sweet from 1500-2000RPM. Keep it in its happy range while cruising, and 20MPG becomes fairly routine. So if you want a good-mileage DD, keep it the way it is (or possibly add O/D), and it will be economical and reliable transportation. The low-end torque is cool, too.
Swapping in a 350 isn't a particularly hard task, if you have all the parts lying around. You already have a fuel return line (if you're going TBI), so that's a plus. Wiring may be a headache, as you will either have to convert to 12V or modify your belt setup to accept the second ground-isolated alternator. There are numerous other things, but nothing huge. Read through this thread if you're interested (and do all the steps backwards)
Also, gearing will be significantly different. A 6.2 may be torquey with 35" tires on 3.73 gears, but a 350 won't be. Your ride will feel more anemic, as the 350 doesn't generate low-end power nearly as well as the 6.2 does. This may or may not be an issue for you in your intended purpose.
The ignition lock cylinder moves a rod that runs along the top of the steering column and actuates the actual ignition switch (behind the dash). This rod can stick on things, or the lock cylinder can get stuck.
33" tires are already pushing it for stock height (not much articulation before you hit on the front end). 35" tires would rub on the front inner fenders quite quickly if you don't have some amount of lift.
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I would consider your purchase to be a fine deal if it's in running & driving condition. There are definitely cheaper options out there, but not usually in great shape. YMMV.
