CK5
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New Here and can't seem to post anywhere else, Looking for a little help.

Ok got some more of the pictures....

Rear Differential images..

RearDifferential1.jpg


RearDifferential2.jpg


The Pan....

OilPanFlyWheel.jpg


The Engine Compartment..

Engine.jpg



hopefully these help can take more as needed!!
Thanks!
 
The transfer case is definately an NP203 and was never stock in an 85 blazer. The trans is no doubt a TH350 but you did not get a full pic of the pan to be clear enough on that. I can see that the trans is from a car though and uses the stamped steel torque convertor cover.
 
From a Car Meaning like a Toyota Carolla? Didn't know that kind of stuff was possible? GOnna be something that I need to change or leave as is?
I'll try and get a WIDER picture of that whole area for a better look at it...
 
Still can't make out the pan shape. Is that pan fairly square but with one corner cut at about a 45 degree angle? If so then that would be a TH350.

By car trans, that means the trans case came from a chevy car but was built with the proper 4wd output shaft. The car case uses a thin sheet metal torque convertor cover with four sheet metal screws that hold it on whereas a 4wd case uses an aluminum torque convertor cover with six 3/8" or 10mm bolts holding it on and the case is thicker than a car case in the bellhousing area.
 
yep definate turbo 350 np 203, these trucks are really easy to swap stuff around in so its not that unusual to get an older turbo 350 in those trucks, the early 80s 700r4s weren't very good. The 203 is a bit odd but hey its what you got and while is suffers a bad rep I ran one for several years and liked it. I actually liked it better as a full time case without front hubs than after I had converted it to part time.

Might want to get those lines off the exaust too, those are your tranny cooler lines
 
Thanks for the help guys, greatly appreciated!!

Any ideas on what the vibrations could be coming from? the U-Joints "LOOK" okay. didn't take it off or anything but they look newer than not.
 
your exhaust has a hole rubbed through on the shackle, just like mine! we gotta get that fixed. kinda strange you have a dana 44 front and a 12 bolt rear axle too, interesting life.
 
You need to find and install an "inspection cover" or "dust cover" as soon as you can, it will help to prevent debris and junk from getting up around the torq converter and seals. You should be able to find one no problem at a salvage yard.

Also your exhaust pipe ends waaaay too far back in my opinion. It should either go straight out the back under the rear bumper, or turn out to the side right behind the rear tire. The way it is, it is possible to get exhaust fumes inside the cabin, and if you have any rust holes, exhaust will come in for sure!

GL,
Andrew
 
DieselWarrior; I know thats one of the thing i NEED to change quick, just driving to work gives me a fume headache, its REALLY BAD!!


OBIJUAN; whats a DANA 44? I have not a clue what that is LOL

jms; whats the Dust cover going to cover? is it going over the Fly wheel part? the blueish looking thing inthe previous pictures? I was kinda concerned about that.

And one last question..... simple im sure, how many motor mounts are there supposed to be? My Dad and i Can find Two. Which are very vissible. Two more which are near the transfer case that dont touchthe motor at all. Is that correct?
I have a Feeling this Beast was slapped together in a week and i payed 500$ for it. Not that i'm upset, I'm in love with it already!! :D
 
there were two distinct front clips (fenders hood grille) on these trucks, your truck has everything a truck built from about 76 or so has but it has a newer front end parts

Thats what he means.
 
His truck appears to have the correct front clip for his 85 blazer. :confused:
 
I'm thinking your vibes are coming from your rear driveshaft angles.........

As mentioned above, get a flywheel cover installed ASAP.

Welcome to CK5, brother. :thumb:
 
OK, you have definitely come to the right place.

However, some of what these guys are telling you will get you hurt.

They are not doing it on purpose, but they still have not slowed down to your level.

You and they are on an intersecting course. You are learning what they are talking about, and they are beginning to realize how unknowledgeable you are.

Some of my work brings me in contact with people who have no idea about what I am talking about, so I am a little more attuned to it then some of these guys.

Don't worry, they will catch on quick, and so will you.
Just watch out for the humor, it runs fast and deep around here.

Here is the main thing they have left out without realizing it.

There are going to be times when you are doing a procedure that they recommend, that park will not work.
And usually its a procedure that will have you under the truck.
Which means that it can and probably will roll over on you.

For the next year or so, no matter what, when you start to get under that truck, chock the wheels.
Chock them good.
(Oops, I'm doing it too. Chock means block the wheels by putting something in front and back so they cannot roll. Cement blocks, a couple of 4X4 pieces of wood nailed together, something like that.)

The bigger tires will roll right over small chocks.

It would not hurt to make yourself some 4X4 wood chocks, or if anyone here has some pictures of what you use, post them so he can see.
Ropes tied to them will make them easier to pull out.

While you are on here, you will hear lots of comments about your front differential (front end), your rear differential (rear end), Transmission, and transfer case.

Don't worry about them. Your parts are good, solid, middle of the road, equipment.
There are stronger ones out there, and there is a lot of weaker ones out there.

Do not even consider any swaps at this point unless it is to swap the same parts to replace worn out parts.
Conversions are out of your ability at this point.
Keep hanging around here, and they will not be forever.

I think the guys here have what you have pretty much nailed down, but if you want to be sure, take pictures of these:
The front of the front differential. Squat down right in front of the truck and shoot up under getting the front differential cover.

Do the same at the rear, you want a rear shot of the rear differential showing the cover.
Right behind the blue thing behind your engine.

( the blue thing is the torque converter for the transmission, the thing with the teeth its attached to is called the flex-plate. Sometimes called the flywheel. The difference is not important at this time. Oh, and the flywheel cover goes over the blue thing and the thing with teeth.)

Anyway, right behind the torque converter is a flat squarish pan which is the transmission pan. A good clear shot of it showing its shape would be nice too.

The four hole things on the ends of the front and rear drive-shafts are called Universal Joints, normally called U-joints.
These are what they suggested you check.
I agree, but CHOCK THE WHEELS.

Also, look inside the holes at the round steel cap inside. Its called a bearing cap. It should be fairly dirty. If its shiny, and looks like it has been rotating inside there, that U-joint is either bad, or about to go bad.

The part of some drive-shafts that seem to neck down smaller and then get bigger again is called the slip joint.
The little part slides in and out of the big part to let the drive shaft change lengths as you go over bumps.
With the transmission in neutral, and the wheels chocked, you can grab both sides of the slip joint if you have one.
Some shafts don't.
You will probably be able to twist the two pieces slightly opposite each other. Also, you can probably push the shaft up and down and see some flex there.

A small amount is ok, lots of floppy movement very loose with possible noise is not ok.
Check back here.

I will stop here. Tomorrow, if I get a chance, I will try to copy your pictures and add arrows and comments to show you what is what.

J.
 
Not at all, he's just trying to make it easy for the guy. He didn't know what valve covers were so he's trying to break it down.
 
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