Hiobviking5
Registered Member
I was asking about that earlier.....
simple explanation if possible?
simple explanation if possible?
CK5
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New Here and can't seem to post anywhere else, Looking for a little help.
- Thread starter Hiobviking5
- Start date
There is no 100% for sure way to tell UNTIL pics have been posted.
The rear axle is pretty easy, count the bolts that hold the cover on, if there are 10 it is a 10 bolt, 12 and it's 12 bolt.
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
Rear is a 12 and Front is a 10, but here is the pics so you can SEE it...
Rear...
Front...
Rear...
Front...
Surprised no one had showed you this link to Axel Identification on our own forums
http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml
Click the link and it shows them from the front and explains. Hang in there you will be fine.
Although there ARE 10 bolts on the front cover that IS a D44 axle (they also had 10 cover bolts). You will find a D44 cast into the corner webbing just to the lower right of the cover.
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
So the vibrations are now worse then before, almost undrivable its so annoying. Really kinda concerning now...
thats not a 12 bolt ,thats the ever so elusive 11 bolt. The thing is worth a fortune.
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
So this is what My dad and I have comeup with, dwell apon it to your on want......
We think that it has to do woth the Motor, or mounts? Cause as The car accelerates the shaking starts, and the more you acc. the more it shakes. If I let the gas off,the shaking starts, cant be the drive shaft cause as you drive or coast while not on the gas the shaft still rotates. This being so the car would shake even if im not on the gas?
Or am i just crazy....
We think that it has to do woth the Motor, or mounts? Cause as The car accelerates the shaking starts, and the more you acc. the more it shakes. If I let the gas off,the shaking starts, cant be the drive shaft cause as you drive or coast while not on the gas the shaft still rotates. This being so the car would shake even if im not on the gas?
Or am i just crazy....
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
Another Possibility we though of to see if it was really the rear drive shaft was to put the car in 4 wheel drive. dissconect the rear drive shaft and let it just be in FWD drive (basically), to see if the shaking is eliminated or reduced.
Least wanted plan of attack was to jack the car up, support it on blocks, leave wheels and everything mounted and rev and drive her like normal, see if the shaking continues....
anything else sounds possible to think of?
We're a tad bit lost at this point....
Least wanted plan of attack was to jack the car up, support it on blocks, leave wheels and everything mounted and rev and drive her like normal, see if the shaking continues....
anything else sounds possible to think of?
We're a tad bit lost at this point....
are there any weights welded to the driveshafts or spots where one was but flew off or something. thats a good idea eliminating each driveshaft, but i would avoid it on jackstands. seems like it could go terribly wrong, especially if it does shake pretty bad.
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
There is NO weights on the drive shafts or the Tires. No spots I can see where there would have been some.
Last time we did that with the pathfinder, we jacked her up, set herdown on two rail road ties, (8foot long square log soaked in tar) sothat the car couldn't shake off.
Works well cause each one ways about 200 lbs.
Last time we did that with the pathfinder, we jacked her up, set herdown on two rail road ties, (8foot long square log soaked in tar) sothat the car couldn't shake off.
Works well cause each one ways about 200 lbs.
The vibration is most likely the driveshaft angle not being correct.
Here's something I think you should do since you just bought this blazer and it obviously has a bunch of non-factory parts for the year of the blazer. I think you should pull the front and rear diff covers off and inspect the gears for any broken, chipped, or missing teeth and then also rotate the ring gear (the large gear) around until you see the GM numbers on them (or any other numbers if the gears are not factory gears) and then take a good clear pic of those numbers on BOTH the front and rear diff and post those pics so we can make sure BOTH axles have the same gear ratio in them (can't be having different gear ratios in the fron and rear diffs). I'm not saying this has anything to do with your vibration BUT with so much having been changed on the blazer it is a wise idea to double check AND at the same time will allow you to put NEW gear oil back in and call the axles good when you're done.
Here's something I think you should do since you just bought this blazer and it obviously has a bunch of non-factory parts for the year of the blazer. I think you should pull the front and rear diff covers off and inspect the gears for any broken, chipped, or missing teeth and then also rotate the ring gear (the large gear) around until you see the GM numbers on them (or any other numbers if the gears are not factory gears) and then take a good clear pic of those numbers on BOTH the front and rear diff and post those pics so we can make sure BOTH axles have the same gear ratio in them (can't be having different gear ratios in the fron and rear diffs). I'm not saying this has anything to do with your vibration BUT with so much having been changed on the blazer it is a wise idea to double check AND at the same time will allow you to put NEW gear oil back in and call the axles good when you're done.
AlaskanK5
1/2 ton status
I had this happen when my 91 wouldn't drop out of 4WD had to park and re-slam the shifter down... Im having issues of my totally shot suspension riding like a go-cart =P
did it shake since you got it?
Or is this a recent thing, it sounds like it has not been happening since you got it.
Or is this a recent thing, it sounds like it has not been happening since you got it.
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
How many days after you bought it did you try out the 4 wheel drive?
We are starting to spin our wheels, and not in a fun way.
We need to try to narrow down what is vibrating.
If you have access to any smooth less traveled roads, you need to put two people in another vehicle, and let them follow you as you drive.
Try to impress on the other two, that one drives and the other looks.
It is just so natural for the driver to want to look too.
I got tired of being driven into ditches and almost into a tree, so I started carrying a small club and would threaten the driver every time he took his eyes off the road.
Drive down the road at the minimum speed that it will shake good at, and let the other car come alongside.
Then, move over if you can and let him come up the other side.
Pictures are not all that important for this, but if you happen to have one of those little flip movie cams, it might help to figure out what is what back at the house.
Things to look for:
One wheel hopping up and down. This would be an out of balance tire or bent wheel.
Front tires slamming back and forth side to side. This is called a Shimmy in mild cases and a death rattle around here.
If the whole truck is shaking, they need to try to get a good look at the rear driveshaft.
It will not be flexing per se, but the rear end and transfer case on each end of it will be kinda flopping up and down.
Just for fun, before you do all this, open the hood, crank the engine and rev it up about 1/4 throttle and look for vibration.
If you don't see any, let it go back to idle, put it in gear with the brakes held, and with the spotter standing to one side and nothing right in front in case the brakes fail, give it a little gas.
The engine should rise up slightly on one side. If it flops over and hits the fender, you probably have found the problem and most likely will need a set of engine mounts...
If he does the drive thing, anybody here have any suggestions for other things for him to look for??
J.
We need to try to narrow down what is vibrating.
If you have access to any smooth less traveled roads, you need to put two people in another vehicle, and let them follow you as you drive.
Try to impress on the other two, that one drives and the other looks.
It is just so natural for the driver to want to look too.
I got tired of being driven into ditches and almost into a tree, so I started carrying a small club and would threaten the driver every time he took his eyes off the road.
Drive down the road at the minimum speed that it will shake good at, and let the other car come alongside.
Then, move over if you can and let him come up the other side.
Pictures are not all that important for this, but if you happen to have one of those little flip movie cams, it might help to figure out what is what back at the house.
Things to look for:
One wheel hopping up and down. This would be an out of balance tire or bent wheel.
Front tires slamming back and forth side to side. This is called a Shimmy in mild cases and a death rattle around here.
If the whole truck is shaking, they need to try to get a good look at the rear driveshaft.
It will not be flexing per se, but the rear end and transfer case on each end of it will be kinda flopping up and down.
Just for fun, before you do all this, open the hood, crank the engine and rev it up about 1/4 throttle and look for vibration.
If you don't see any, let it go back to idle, put it in gear with the brakes held, and with the spotter standing to one side and nothing right in front in case the brakes fail, give it a little gas.
The engine should rise up slightly on one side. If it flops over and hits the fender, you probably have found the problem and most likely will need a set of engine mounts...
If he does the drive thing, anybody here have any suggestions for other things for him to look for??
J.
Hiobviking5
Registered Member
Okayy......
so We tested theabove way. and honest to god. it looks smooth. the engine rises a littel through acceleration, but not much, Wheels dont twist or jump while driving and drive shaft has no movement at all while driving down the road. Hard telling if its the mounts or not cause when in nuetral in the garage in has NO movement. but what we can "FEEL" is it coming from that part of the truck when the shaking starts.
We were losing some tranny fluid whe nit was perchased, but we figured that ws the rear DS seal at the TC. (also the fluids being low is whats causingn a loud, "CLUNK" when transfering from park to reverse, reverse to drive and vise versa?)
Really want to figure this out before I have to take it to a mechanic and pay a freaking 85.00$ an hour labor freaking bill....
any other ideas other wise im pretty much screwed....
so We tested theabove way. and honest to god. it looks smooth. the engine rises a littel through acceleration, but not much, Wheels dont twist or jump while driving and drive shaft has no movement at all while driving down the road. Hard telling if its the mounts or not cause when in nuetral in the garage in has NO movement. but what we can "FEEL" is it coming from that part of the truck when the shaking starts.
We were losing some tranny fluid whe nit was perchased, but we figured that ws the rear DS seal at the TC. (also the fluids being low is whats causingn a loud, "CLUNK" when transfering from park to reverse, reverse to drive and vise versa?)
Really want to figure this out before I have to take it to a mechanic and pay a freaking 85.00$ an hour labor freaking bill....
any other ideas other wise im pretty much screwed....
If you were closer than 3 1/2 hours away I would be glad to give you a hand figuring this blazer out.
