Yeah, it looks like a KW body, but think that may be a transplant or some kind of hybrid. Those front wheels don't belong.
CK5
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New to me '99 F350 Dually 7.3L
- Thread starter Truckman4life
- Start date
Those are definitely military wheels and tires.
Rear is a single axle w/ duals. Vs dual rear axles. Engine/cab isn't right for a 2.5 ton.
Good catch on the duals.
Couple little things. Fixed my highlift jack so it wouldn't bounce around and come out of where I keep it on rough roads. Just added the plate and shackle to keep in in the spot next to my toolbox.
Had this old bed rack sitting on our farm since we bought it. Cut the front out for my toolbox and welded up a rear swing out gate from that front piece. Needs a little more work but I can haul way more firewood. Went to the mtns yesterday and got wood. Need another load I think.
Had this old bed rack sitting on our farm since we bought it. Cut the front out for my toolbox and welded up a rear swing out gate from that front piece. Needs a little more work but I can haul way more firewood. Went to the mtns yesterday and got wood. Need another load I think.
New steering gear to fix the terribly loose original one and new pitman arm. The arm was also loose on the splines. Also ditched the dual stabilizers for a single in the original location. Also had to change the pressure hose from the hydroboost to the gear. It leaked after I did the gear.
That doesn't look like a blue or red top. Who's rebuild is that
LOL. Yeah I was really wanting a Blue Top but couldn't pull off the price plus waiting for my core return. I had good luck with a Napa reman in my blazer so I grabbed one for this. It was a bit over $200 with a core charge that was a little more than the cost of the part. Also I would like to do an '05+ axle and suspension swap some day and that requires the newer gear so I didn't want to spend money on a Blue Top that I would be changing out in the future. We will see how well it holds up after I abuse it hunting and camping a bunch.
Broke my track bar mount off a while back. Too much flexing. Been driving it without one. Lots of bumpsteer. Finally glued it back on with the stick welder. Not pretty but it shouldn't fall off.
My exhaust was broken and rigged before the axle. Cut it off and used part of the tailpipe to sidepipe it with a 4" tip I had.
I swapped in a psc gear and a duramax saginaw pump on mine, and the steering is one finger now.
Even at idle and on the brakes? What Saginaw swap did you go with? Or does it just bolt in mostly?
I am going to SRW swap mine at some point in the future before I get new tires, probably gonna do a flatbed at that time also. Really wanting to go to an '05+ axle swap to get better turning radius and the coil spring front end. My rear springs are broken and the front suspension is pretty wore out too. Not sure if that will happen for a while. Found a pretty loose pass front wheel bearing while fixing the track bar so I guess since I need one I'll just get both and do the SRW ones, only difference as far as I can tell is the wheel studs are for wheels on the SRW hubs and they are shorter and slightly different for the dually adapters on the DRW hubs. Out back I can just use my 2" spacers that are between my duals as a SRW spacer to get the back almost the same width as the front. Bonus if I did axle swap it is I could put the Dana 60 and 80 out of this in my '81 C30 to 4x4 swap it.
At idle, on the brakes - if I'm on loose ground. I found part of the problem is the geometry. The tires need to roll as it turns. I could probably do it, but it'd tear up the tires. On asphalt, light application of the brakes and turning the wheel is possible.
The saginaw swap is a bracket kit from https://powertrain-integration.com/...er-steering-pump-mount?variant=44714338975995
The kit installed pretty easy. Had to work out the return fitting - needed a little tweaking and I had to heat up a spot on my S&B air box to make some clearance. But so far it's been nice. The saginaw pumps are a much better pump than the Ford one.
I would like a better turn radius, and going to 450 axle would do it, but the lug pattern changes...
I'm not sure I'd SRW if you're gonna be hauling around that much wood - that you posted above. And that big tool box.
The saginaw swap is a bracket kit from https://powertrain-integration.com/...er-steering-pump-mount?variant=44714338975995
The kit installed pretty easy. Had to work out the return fitting - needed a little tweaking and I had to heat up a spot on my S&B air box to make some clearance. But so far it's been nice. The saginaw pumps are a much better pump than the Ford one.
I would like a better turn radius, and going to 450 axle would do it, but the lug pattern changes...
I'm not sure I'd SRW if you're gonna be hauling around that much wood - that you posted above. And that big tool box.
Could keep it duals and go with a 255/85R16 tire. The 295s are too fat for factory wheels. Plus really limited on who makes that size. Ditch the spacers between the duals. Gotta clean up or replace my aluminum outter and front wheels. They all leak from corrosion. Hmmm. That would give me a bigger flatbed too.
Front is swapped to single rear wheel setup. Ordered wheelbearings for SRW from Rock Auto. The best quality SKF ones were at least a hundred less per bearing than my power company discount at my local Napa. Pulled wheels to swap tires a few days ago and low and behold someone had already installed a SRW bearing on the driver side. The only difference is the wheel studs are normal ones on a SRW bearing and shorter ones with slightly different style for the dually adapters on a DRW bearing. So I saved a bearing for a spare and only had to change the failed pass side one. Later I'll step up from the 295s to 315s.
Dually no more!
Did some measuring and swapping. Rear is like 73" wide wms to wms. Added the 2" rear spacers that were between the duals to the front and it is now 73" wide. Tires poke out a little but not bad. Tested a 17" steel wheel off an '05+ super duty. The newer trucks have wider axles and like 6" of backspacing vs the 4 1/2" the older trucks had. Tires would tuck in like stock with the newer style wheels. For now I'll run these tires. They're almost bald. Then I plan to get some newer 18" aluminum factory take-offs and run 295/70R18 tires. I tested a 315/75R16 on a factory steel wheel and it would rub a lot and I like clearance to run tire chains if needed. Pulled the dually fenders. They basically have no fender lip for the whole top part of the wheel opening. Had a bed at work but no way to get it without getting fired. Instead I just removed the parts I needed and riveted them to my bed. Works for now. I'll get some paint on them to match better till the winter when I get my flatbed built and swapped on. I like it lots better as single rear wheel.
315/75R16
Did some measuring and swapping. Rear is like 73" wide wms to wms. Added the 2" rear spacers that were between the duals to the front and it is now 73" wide. Tires poke out a little but not bad. Tested a 17" steel wheel off an '05+ super duty. The newer trucks have wider axles and like 6" of backspacing vs the 4 1/2" the older trucks had. Tires would tuck in like stock with the newer style wheels. For now I'll run these tires. They're almost bald. Then I plan to get some newer 18" aluminum factory take-offs and run 295/70R18 tires. I tested a 315/75R16 on a factory steel wheel and it would rub a lot and I like clearance to run tire chains if needed. Pulled the dually fenders. They basically have no fender lip for the whole top part of the wheel opening. Had a bed at work but no way to get it without getting fired. Instead I just removed the parts I needed and riveted them to my bed. Works for now. I'll get some paint on them to match better till the winter when I get my flatbed built and swapped on. I like it lots better as single rear wheel.
315/75R16
Crazy how much it changed it!
Yeah it is, my one kid said it looks longer which it totally does.
