CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

New TOY (pun intended) !!

Holy cow, those trucks are worth a heck of a lot more than I thought...

I have an 82 with absolutely no rot in the body. It has a 22R engine, with a 5 speed standard tranny. I was gonna sell it for 1200, but mine has half the milage of that, and is in ten times better shape....

I think I need to ask a bit more for it, lol

Actually, the sole reason I was going to get rid of it is because the engine needs some work. It burns oil really bad. I've got a complete overhaul kit for the engine, just don't know how to fix the carb on the thing.
 
Toyotas are only good for axles. :D
4link_011.sized.jpg
 
84gmcjimmy said:
Picked up a more fuel effiecent vehicle for driving around town.

Asking price was 3500, I got it for 3000 CDN.
1987 toyota pickup-22re (FI), 5 spd, 4x4, ifs, red with white extra cab

I know its not chevy, but I had to tell you guys...

15029PANA1189.JPG


15029PANA1190.JPG


probably need to get a new/used bed since this one is rusted out.
I wonder how that would liik with a flat bed.
 
mikey_d05 said:
EDIT: I'm a moron who can't read.

Looks good Steve, I'd love to drive one daily if I could fit in one comfortably.

Screw a new bed, build it like this one: (club member)

photo8.jpg


A close up of the bed: :haha:

photo7.jpg
That kind of bed wood look very kewl on his Toy.
 
SierraClassic said:
I've got a complete overhaul kit for the engine, just don't know how to fix the carb on the thing.
Weber replacement, that's how I fixed mine. :D
 
actually there were a limited amount of sfa toys built in 86 to use up the inventory a guy i know with a collection of 20+ has a stock sfa 86 that is his main rig. But who really cares :D
 
BigOrange90Jimmy said:
Nah man, the SFA was dropped after 85. All 4x4's up to, I believe, 95 came standard with locking hubs.

Some of the 2nd gens had auto-locking hubs.

Have you any idea if the timing chain has been replaced within the last 50k-80k miles or so? If not, you really need to do that. They're considered to have a 100k to 125k lifespan, max. I'm sure that there are lots that have lived longer, but when the chain gets sloppy and the tensioner runs out of travel the chain starts eating thru the aluminum wall of the coolant port in the timing cover.
The chain kits from LC Engineering are one of the best out there. They come with metal backed chain guides instead the OE all plastic guides.
 
not bad!

I think a Toyota truck is ok for daily driving to save fuel..they are priced too high around here in my opinion though--a 1500 dollar one is a "beater" that runs and drives,and usually has a lot of rust and rot...The beds are hard to find here,they rot away quickly--but the cabs,doors,and noses seem to hold up ok,better than most GM cabs do!..

I'd make a flatbed for it..or a "stakerack" one out of pressure treated wood..one truck like the one pictured nearby has a bed made of aluminum fire escape grating salvaged from an old apartment building that was torn down a few blocks away..looks real nice,and its lightweight too..but still very strong..the guy plans to cover it with pressure treated decking or plywoood someday..

...cant kill those old 20r and 22r carbed engines,though the timing chain can be an achilles heel in them sometimes..a EFI 22RE will blow itself up if you push iy--seems the carbed ones didn't make enough HP to hurt themselves.. :rolleyes: ..they make a good plow truck for driveways and small parking lots,long as you plow before the snow gets too deep.. :doah:

The 5 speed 4x4 tranys are a bit weak though,and hard to find a good used one reasonable in a junkyard..most dont give any trouble until high mileage however,and 5th gear is usually the only one that gives any greif..

I have a few aquaintences who swear by Toyota trucks..one guy has a one ton DRW one with a flatbed,2wd--he puts 3 tons of cement and tools on it all the time--drives it long distances at 80 mph and still gets 20 mpg!..he did the same with a 2wd pickup until the frame broke because it was so rotted..he welded patches on it and drove it some more,then a big oak tree fell on it one day last winter and squashed the cab down to the seats..we still drove it around his feilds after jacking the roof back up enough..just wouldnt die!..
 
I have 2 Toyotas 1 87 and 1 91.The 87 has a 22re(fi 4 cyl),I just put a new motor in at 238,000 miles.The old one knocked a little but still ran.I have seen the timing chains eat through the timing cover and still run,I've seen one with a baseball size hole in the block and still ran,it's hard to kill those 22r motors.My tranny is whining a little in 5th gear but still shifts smooth.It's all about gears with these trucks,I have the stock 4.11's with 33's and can climb hills like my blazer can,although I do have some work into the motor(see sig).My 91 has a v6 which are also good reliable motors but are extremly expensive to repair,the water pump is run by the timing belt and you have to take half of the engine apart to get to it.I didn't want to get into it so I took it to the dealer(cheapest in town btw)and it was $850!!!.I just did my 22re and it was 40 for a new pump,an hour to swap out.
 
ntsqd said:
Some of the 2nd gens had auto-locking hubs.

Have you any idea if the timing chain has been replaced within the last 50k-80k miles or so? If not, you really need to do that. They're considered to have a 100k to 125k lifespan, max. I'm sure that there are lots that have lived longer, but when the chain gets sloppy and the tensioner runs out of travel the chain starts eating thru the aluminum wall of the coolant port in the timing cover.
The chain kits from LC Engineering are one of the best out there. They come with metal backed chain guides instead the OE all plastic guides.

I will probably replace it to be on the safe side. never thought to ask about that.
Any idea what they cost?

LC engineering, I will check the site out again later. thanks
 
Buy the chain, guides and tensioner from ENGNBLDR , they are cheaper than LC Engineering. Might as well do a cam at the same time, too :D As for cost, you can do it for less than $100, its just a pain to do if its your first time and you are unfamiliar with the motor. After you get used to tearing them appart, you get fast with them. I can go from a complete motor in the truck to just the block with rotating assembly in it in about an hour if i really bust my butt.
 
Engnbldr has great stuff.I have a bigger cam in my 22re and with the bigger tires and stock gears it's still has more power than stock motor with stock tires.I can't wait for the new gears to see the real power increase.If I were you,I would do the cam while you're at it.Another good power upgrade is a new header,thorley,lc engineering,downey.I have a thorley tri y and love it.I paid about 60 for my metal guided timing kit on ebay and did great.
 
Might be a repost, but click on this link Top Gear
and then click on the video of the Toyota hilux. They absolutly punish that truck and it still fired up. It was the euro-spec diesel, but I wouldn't be suprised if a carb'd 22re might have started up too with little effort....

Funny to watch.
 
When time comes to get the timng chain and cam etc, does haynes or chlintons have those repair manuals like they do for chevys?
 
Top Bottom