NON HYDRO ASSIST DANA 60 crossover people

[Ronnie4wd]

But would that make a difference on or off ground

 

[4X4HIGH]

But would that make a difference on or off ground

It wouldn't matter if on or off ground, it wouldn't turn as far one way or the other.

 

[wayne]

Check the rag joint at the steering box. It might be working with the truck jacked up but it might be tearing some with the pressure of turning the tires one direction. I don't think it's the pump. Also some pictures would really help. Did you try moving the truck and turning while moving slow? Does it have a front locker?

 

[Mudstud]

No front locker- open 5.13s.

Even moving forward it will not turn any further then if sitting still.

4X4- now I know what you are saying. The gear insise the box os the rack nut, right?

In my experience it is dern near impossible to get those teeth misaligned. The sector shaft just won't slide in right. Not to mention this is a variable ratio box so the tall skinny tooth in the middle won't fit in one of the shorter grooves of the rack.

Constant ratio on left and variable on right- Notice the teeth dif.

I will try and get some pics tonight of the steering set up. I really appreciate all your guys help. Anything specific I should try and shoot? Wheels straight ahead, wheels turned to right and left and then some of the steering components.

 

[ClevelandCruiser]

I'm having the same problem with my set up ORD crossover dana 60 on a 91 blazer. with the draglink dissconnected my steering wheel turns 4 in a half times but when its hooked up im barely getting 3 turns out of it. All the way lock to the right and just barely any turn to the left.

 

[Mudstud]

I have pics, just gotta get em up on Shutterfly and then post up. I took good notes while working on it.

 

[Mudstud]

All right, here’s what I got. Both stops are 1” out of the knuckles.

The set up Trusty said to do was the way I originally set this up when I put crossover on. I wasn’t happy with it as it maxes out the box before the knuckles hit the stops (among other things). As a result I set it up by turning everything all the way left and adjusting the draglink to drop in the pitman and crossover arms. That was then so I started all over this past weekend and tried it again as instructed. You can see in these pics the dif in turning radius when it’s on the ground as compared to jacked up. Doesn’t look like much BUT IT IS! The first pic in each set is with the truck on the ground, second is it in the air. This is before I readjusted it all.

As instructed- the results are;
LEFT
It will turn all the way left on the ground but the pump is stressing and it seems to max out the gear box plus it moves the axle to the side before it reaches the stop (because it’s pushing the axle aside). The frame flex at the shackles is apparent while under stress. I wouldn’t want to run it like this.

RIGHT
Seems good.

This is where I left it. Anything you guys suggest will be done from this current set up.

This is to lock on the ground after readjustment but I wouldn’t want to wheel it like this.

Other pics before readjustment. If you look at the leaf packs I wonder if I have a broken center pin. I also noticed how it looks like I have the freakin spring plate on crooked. I need to look at that when I get home. Could be the reason the leaves are fanning out. I know all U bolts are torqued to 150#. You guys see anything I could address in my atempt to figure this crap out? FYI- I do have death wobble and taking the degree shims outta the front leaves is something I want to try. Hmmm, I need to check that centering pin for sure.

 

[BGKYK5]

In the second to last pic it looks like the drag link is bent, is that just an optical illusion?

It does look like you have a lot of ackerman in the steering. I can't really explain that because that is fixed in the knuckle design (unless the tie rod is bending).

I agree that you should look at those springs. I think the steering is trying to move the axle back and forth instead of turning the tires. I would't drive it like that if I could avoid it.

 

[Mudstud]

It is a standard NWF bent drag link.

 

[ColAdo82K5]

Disconnect the tie rod, make sure something isn't funny binding in the ends.
What condition are the king pins in? Could it be when you remove the stress of the weight of the truck on them, they are then able to turn fully?
Thoughts...

 

[Mudstud]

Well, before I put the axle in it was regeared and most everything replaced at that time with the exception of the king pins themselves- Couldn't get them dern things off and one side lower bearing was not replaced. The axle only had 3 rides on it before I put crossover on it. I do know that the white bushing is cracked (at least on the driversside) as I have had it apart since then. Seems if you wheel at all that the freakin bushing is gonna crack.

"Could it be when you remove the stress of the weight of the truck on them, they are then able to turn fully?"

Doubtfull BUT-
This makes me wonder if I remove, or reduce, the degree shims under the leaf packs the castor-? would allow the pump and steering to work more easily. It would more easily allow the weight of the vehicle to be raised as the turn gets sharper. Ya know how the weight of the truck helps bring it back to center? If the castor is cocked up too much the pump can't force enough fluid to make the turn cuz more vehicle weight is applied to the steering system the sharper the turn.

Make sense? Might be on to something there! Does that answer all my questions? Hmm, I'll have to ponder that more.

In any case I think the next move is removing the degree shims and replacing the kingpin bushings. Be curious to see if one or both center pins are broken.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[BGKYK5]

It is a standard NWF bent drag link.

OK, it just looked funny from that angle - it looked just slightly bent which didn't look right.

 

[Ronnie4wd]

Any results

 

[desertrat67]

In the first pic it looks like our axle is shifting to the rear on the pass side. I had an issue with this with the stock push pull style stearing and lost a lot of my turn radius. both of my center pins were broken. It worked a lot better when I replaced them.

 

[gmc4cw]

why is the draglink laid flat like that?


being that you can turn the wheels when its jacked up that means something is moving, probably a lot of things. springs and shackles are moving slightly and the frame is moving where the box bolts up. a panhard bar would help.

jack it up. disconnect the draglink. turn box and wheels left. adjust the draglink but do not hook it up. turn the box and wheels right. see if the length is still good. you might need to adjust it so that you can't turn full lock either way but equally both ways. on flat ground with my ORD setup and 8" springs I couldn't turn full lock either way. when flexed it would turn to one side or the other more. with 6" springs I get more out of it since the pitman and steering arm are morein plane with each other.

 

[Mudstud]

why is the draglink laid flat like that?

Thats the way it makes the least amount of contact with the crossmember. I have cut a little off the crossmember to gain clearance.

You think I might get better throw if I angle it down- long side down -more parallel with axle might give it a tab bit more push?

Regarding the rest of your post;
I have done all that and the draglink never will drop in the holes when the box and wheels are turned right then left or vice versa.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[nvrenuf]

Has one of your drag link ends been replaced? I noticed the end at the pitman arm is different from the lower end. Both of the drag link ends in my NWF kit were the same (like your lower end). Since the length is different couldn't that effect the throw in one (or both) directions?

I may be crazy though... it seems like the drag link would be longer (than mine) which would increase left turning radius wouldn't it?

 

[gmc4cw]

Thats the way it makes the least amount of contact with the crossmember. I have cut a little off the crossmember to gain clearance.

You think I might get better throw if I angle it down- long side down -more parallel with axle might give it a tab bit more push?

Regarding the rest of your post;
I have done all that and the draglink never will drop in the holes when the box and wheels are turned right then left or vice versa.

Thanks for the reply.

it does not matter which way the draglink is oriented. its the same distance from one end to the other no matter what.

as for you stating that the draglink will not line up, that supports my point that you are going to need to make a compromise. if you make it fit for left and its to short to turn right then you have an imperfect setup.

measure the distance from your kingpin center to the hole in the steering arm. now measure the distance from the hole in the pitman arm to the radial center of the box.

are they the same?

now you need to find out how far they both swing. if their swing is the same then you should be able to turn lock to lock without problems. gauranteed either the swing is not the same or the lengths are not the same.

one size fits all really means that one size fits most. lets just keep eliminating variables until its right.

 

[Mudstud]

I will measure prolly tomorrow night. Busy night for me.

Thanks guys, I really do appreciate it.

 

[GEORGIA GABE]

I think your axle is shifting.... look at the pictures below and note the angle of the shackle. Have you done a spring swap on the front?