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NV4500 Swap

Got my transmission. I drove 2.5 hrs and the dude was not answering his door. Took about 10 mins and I am pretty sure he was still drunk. This was at 10AM. Said it was his buddies Bday the night before. Anyways, we opened it up and it looked good to me. Of course I do not know what bad looks like, but no of the gears or syncros had any visible wear. It was my first time seeing the inside of any transmission. He had stored it with some kerosene, not sure how bad that is. It spins nice and I could lock up first gear with the syncro (not sure that is the correct term). Figured for $500, I couldn't go wrong.

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Rubber boot? needs replaced.

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Picked up some pedals while there from another old CL ad. This guy was real cool and we BS'd for a short while. He was concerned they wouldn't work for me. They are missing the rods (part that goes through firewall into master cylinder) on the clutch and brake pedal. Hoping I can find those somewhere.

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You can see where the rod goes on the clutch pedal in this pic.
 
I'd go with a clutch manufacturer I've heard of, like Luk, Ram, McCleod, Hayes.

Tranny looks good, did he happen to have the shifter? I had a metric bitch of a time finding one. The 5 speed shifter from the 1/2 tons works fine, but even they were hard to find. The thread is some oddball metric pitch...
 
I went ahead and got it. It is the same clutch some senior members at dieselplace.com use. I figure for $30 can't go wrong. It was last one, after I purchased price went back to $140
 
I run an autozone clutch which was at a similar price point. It's made by valeo.

I have never been a fan of the pedal feel with the name brand clutches. I've had a ram and a Hayes. They were both too on off for my taste.

I think your left leg will be far happier with a "cheap" clutch. I know mine is.
 
i don't know if its the same thread pitch . but I have a shifter handle from a 4 bolt tower style 4500. the handle threads on to the tower stub . :dunno:
 
Richcz28 said:
I put a ranger in last fall. I highly recommend going the nv4500 route with the shifter chevy305 runs.
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The custom Hurst shifter I use that Rich is talking about won't work with your early 4500. They only fit the 4 bolt shifter base style which is '95+

As far as finding one for you, a trip through the junk yard would probably turn one up. Dodge shifters use the same thread so that can broaden your search a bit. Also don't quote me but I "think" NV3500s use the same thread for their shifters, that means 1500s, S10s, and Jeeps.

Richcz28 said:
I'm also going to rock the boat and say go mechanical linkage. You want to talk to chevy305 about that. Sometimes he's on a boat and won't respond for a while.
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Yup like others have said, nothing wrong with mechanical linkage, but I see you've gone hydro. As far as the missing linkage, you might be able to make one with a piece of threaded rod or something. :dunno: (I'm not familiar with hydro setups so I don't know what it even looks like)

As for the worn out pivot points, I drilled mine out bigger and bought brass bushings at my local hardware store to put in. Much more durable than those original nylon bushings.

For your clutch, I run a Centerforce Dual Friction. It's awesome. Great pedal feel, plenty of "slip" in it for slow speed manuvering, and once you're off the pedal it definitely will not slip on you.
 
Mikey von said:
Just read through campfire's nv4500 swap questions thread.
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You've got a bunch of answers that I was looking for in my thread. Totally jealous... :whistle: :haha:

But it's nice to see another guy looking into this swap, at the same time even. How convenient for you to collect answers for me! :D


Larry said:
In the end it turns out to be a jackassary that never really works right either way. The AA bell is totally worth the money to do it right. Modifying a SM465 bell to work with a NV4500 is downright scary where long term durability looks pretty questionable….at least on the pictures of the molested 465 bells I’ve seen.
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I already have a mechanical SM465 bell housing lying around, but I'm reconsidering running it. Especially since it's not set up for hydraulics at this point.



Mikey von said:
If I use the AA bell housing, the master -> hose -> slave is all off the shelf? That would definitely make it worth it!
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Tempting. I'll have to think about this. :thinking:


sweetk30 said:
i don't know if its the same thread pitch . but I have a shifter handle from a 4 bolt tower style 4500. the handle threads on to the tower stub . :dunno:
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Chevy305 said:
The custom Hurst shifter I use that Rich is talking about won't work with your early 4500. They only fit the 4 bolt shifter base style which is '95+

As far as finding one for you, a trip through the junk yard would probably turn one up. Dodge shifters use the same thread so that can broaden your search a bit. Also don't quote me but I "think" NV3500s use the same thread for their shifters, that means 1500s, S10s, and Jeeps.
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So...the thread pitch is different between early and late shifter handles? :screwy:
 
I wanna say the thread is M14 X 1.8, at least on my '95 NV4500.
 
campfire said:
So...the thread pitch is different between early and late shifter handles? :screwy:
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No what I'm talking about is the actual shifter mechanism for the '95+ models is a bolt on assembly rather than cast into the top style like you have. The shifter handle itself that you are asking about is the same for all years.
 
Looking to pick up the rest of my parts today.

What brand should I be looking for on the master cylinder, hose, and slave cylinder? I am guessing I should shoot for the same brand on all 3. I can only find the hose in Dorman.

Lots of options on rock auto. Just looking at the master cylinder there are 9 different choices, from Omni on closeout at $12, dorman at $20, to ACDelco at $30.
 
Still looking for a clutch. I ordered the $30 one Rhino Pak, but the order got cancelled due to it being out of stock.

Should I order one that fits a 6.2L -> Sm465 or a 6.5L -> NV4500?

Talking with a buddy at poker last night, he said I have to be sure to get the correct throw out bearing. He said it may be bell housing specific??? I will be using the AA bell. Just use the throw out bearing with the clutch kit or???
 
Some 6.5/NV4500 set-ups came with a hydraulic release bearing and dual mass clutch. Avoid all that BS.

Order up for a 6.2 with SM465 and you'll be fine. That's a pretty generic set-up and will work with the AA bell and the GM hydro parts. Make sure you get a diaphragm clutch and not the three finger style.
 
So my NP241 Leaks. This has been a known issue, but since it will be out I would like to fix it.

I know for sure it leaks at the tail housing. My searches have brought some confusion on what bushing and seal I need here?

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It also seems to be leaking from the case itself. This could be dripping down from the tail-housing, but it doesn't appear to be. Not sure how to go about fixing this?

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Anything else I should do to the tcase while I have it out?

Dumb question time: Easiest way to remove rear drive shaft? Just pull out of the tcase tail-housing?
 
It's not leaking terribly at the output or the area would be drenched...but there is just a lip seal inside the output housing. To find the other leak follow the trail of wet and clean aluminum upwards. The fluid will leave a trail downwards from it's source. You might want to dis-assemble and re-seal the whole thing. It's not terribly hard.

Driveshaft removal, just pull it out. Have a bucket ready because as soon as you do pull it out it will allow the T-case fluid to pour out. You could pull the drain plug on the back of the T-case first, which would be less messy...
 
That appears to be a stock style clutch, you should be fine.
 
tRustyK5 said:
It's not leaking terribly at the output or the area would be drenched...but there is just a lip seal inside the output housing. To find the other leak follow the trail of wet and clean aluminum upwards. The fluid will leave a trail downwards from it's source. You might want to dis-assemble and re-seal the whole thing. It's not terribly hard.

Driveshaft removal, just pull it out. Have a bucket ready because as soon as you do pull it out it will allow the T-case fluid to pour out. You could pull the drain plug on the back of the T-case first, which would be less messy...
Click to expand...

tRustyK5 said:
That appears to be a stock style clutch, you should be fine.
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Thanks!

I looked for a trail of fluid, but it was pretty messy. I will admit I did not look too hard, it was cold and my wife was warm. I just wanted a few quick pics. I will take a closer look today. It sounds like a dis-assembly and re-seal are in order.
 
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