Ol’ Smokey

[k5blazerguy]

Upon removing the crossover pipe that looked like it had been hacked together, I ended up snapping the flange bolts off inside the manifold, after that, I happened to look at the turbo and notice that it’s not even a banks turbo. A “Roto Master”? Never even noticed this the whole time I’ve been working on this motor. Anyone heard of this? It looks identical maybe a knockoff. But the manifold is a banks.
I just decided to use the other Banks setup I have and put it on this motor. I’ll deal with those bolts later when I’m ready to put that setup in the CUCV.
Work has been crazy busy and still haven’t been able to install the motor yet. Last weekend, got the clutch on and started replacing GPs and of course 7 out of 8 were swollen. Prying with a screwdriver while turning the GP did the trick on 6 of them. One of them ended up breaking and pulled the injector to remove the piece.
Today I swapped the manifold and turbo, LP block off and ended up tearing the oil pan gasket as I was torquing it down. Seems like what caused it was the raised areas around a few bolt holes that I need to flatten out. So another hold up. Haha. Went on to replacing all the rubber fuel lines while the motor is out. And finishing up the ORD shock mounts. I have an edelbrock LP mounted by the fuel tank valve and needed to reconnect the valve to keep the selectable tanks working. After pulling the main line off the LP, noticed the diesel is super dirty. Maybe a clue why the first motor quit. I blew some brake cleaner through the line going to the filter housing and was same color. So looks like I need to drop the tanks now and clean them.
Thinking about replacing the whole filter housing too. I see many different setups on forums, not sure which one is best, but leaning toward the duramax housing.
Hope everyone has a good 4th!
Gonna do as much on this truck as I can this weekend. The goal is to have this truck drivable for my son’s 16th bday in a couple weeks. Hopefully…

 

[Truckman4life]

Napa sells Roto-master turbos.

 

[imiceman44]

Upon removing the crossover pipe that looked like it had been hacked together, I ended up snapping the flange bolts off inside the manifold, after that, I happened to look at the turbo and notice that it’s not even a banks turbo. A “Roto Master”? Never even noticed this the whole time I’ve been working on this motor. Anyone heard of this? It looks identical maybe a knockoff. But the manifold is a banks.
I just decided to use the other Banks setup I have and put it on this motor. I’ll deal with those bolts later when I’m ready to put that setup in the CUCV.
Work has been crazy busy and still haven’t been able to install the motor yet. Last weekend, got the clutch on and started replacing GPs and of course 7 out of 8 were swollen. Prying with a screwdriver while turning the GP did the trick on 6 of them. One of them ended up breaking and pulled the injector to remove the piece.
Today I swapped the manifold and turbo, LP block off and ended up tearing the oil pan gasket as I was torquing it down. Seems like what caused it was the raised areas around a few bolt holes that I need to flatten out. So another hold up. Haha. Went on to replacing all the rubber fuel lines while the motor is out. And finishing up the ORD shock mounts. I have an edelbrock LP mounted by the fuel tank valve and needed to reconnect the valve to keep the selectable tanks working. After pulling the main line off the LP, noticed the diesel is super dirty. Maybe a clue why the first motor quit. I blew some brake cleaner through the line going to the filter housing and was same color. So looks like I need to drop the tanks now and clean them.
Thinking about replacing the whole filter housing too. I see many different setups on forums, not sure which one is best, but leaning toward the duramax housing.
Hope everyone has a good 4th!
Gonna do as much on this truck as I can this weekend. The goal is to have this truck drivable for my son’s 16th bday in a couple weeks. Hopefully…

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Banks uses roto master turbos.
That's what I had

 

[k5blazerguy]

Today’s progress.
Gonna cleanup the tranny and case and get them in. Have a new fuel tank ordered a duramax filter housing.

 

[k5blazerguy]

This weekend replaced all the gaskets in another sm465 I had (the one from this truck would grind when downshifting into 2nd had to be at a complete stop to shift).
Removed the bed and both tanks then power washed the frame. Decided to run drivers side only tank for now.
Blew out lines with brake cleaner. Forgot about tank strap pads and made some out of the Hutchinson inserts from the 24bolts.
Mounted the Dmax filter housing.
Transfer case and driveline installed.
Gonna go to parts stores and find an electrical quick disconnect for the 6.5 LP and get that mounted after work today and finish plumbing the fuel lines.
Hopefully get radiator installed so I can figure out a lower radiator hose.
I’m way overthinking which coolant to use. I use the zerex hd nitrate free yellow top in my Cummins but some people say zerex red hd or G05 is good too. Then a buddy told me just to run O’reillys universal. Any suggestions?
Truck is getting close. Goal is to make it drivable by Saturday when my son turns 16. Looking like a possibility as long as weather cooperates.











Also have to fix the wiring to the starter. Not sure what was goin on here. Don’t need this truck burning down too. Haha

 

[imiceman44]

This weekend replaced all the gaskets in another sm465 I had (the one from this truck would grind when downshifting into 2nd had to be at a complete stop to shift).
Removed the bed and both tanks then power washed the frame. Decided to run drivers side only tank for now.
Blew out lines with brake cleaner. Forgot about tank strap pads and made some out of the Hutchinson inserts from the 24bolts.
Mounted the Dmax filter housing.
Transfer case and driveline installed.
Gonna go to parts stores and find an electrical quick disconnect for the 6.5 LP and get that mounted after work today and finish plumbing the fuel lines.
Hopefully get radiator installed so I can figure out a lower radiator hose.
I’m way overthinking which coolant to use. I use the zerex hd nitrate free yellow top in my Cummins but some people say zerex red hd or G05 is good too. Then a buddy told me just to run O’reillys universal. Any suggestions?
Truck is getting close. Goal is to make it drivable by Saturday when my son turns 16. Looking like a possibility as long as weather cooperates.

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Also have to fix the wiring to the starter. Not sure what was goin on here. Don’t need this truck burning down too. Haha View attachment 508313View attachment 508312

On a diesel always use a diesel specific coolant, it has additives for vibration so it doesn't form bubbles on the surfaces and start rust.
I use the red from Detroit diesel, I get it in cases for my freightliner and I use it on my gm diesel

 

[k5blazerguy]

Figured out the wiring from all the diagrams I found online and spliced everything back the way it should be. Had some extra heat cover and used over the starter lines to hopefully give them a longer life span.
Went to install the starter and apparently manual transmissions have a different starter. This motor had a TH400 in its past life. The opening for the drive gear is cut out more on manuals, this one doesn’t have the cutout and hits the flywheel. I debated cutting it out but just decided to get a new one. So have another coming to O’reillys tomorrow along with exhaust gaskets for the crossover. Prob gonna put heat wrap on that pipe as well.
Got the 6.5 LP mounted in the frame where the fuel tank switch valve used to be, all fuel lines connected, power steering, alternator, radiator, banks filter housing, and other little stuff checked off the list. Ended up removing the oil filter housing and used the factory oil cooler line locations as it was setup for different fittings. Maybe use it later and run AN lines at some point. Almost there!
The flanges are finsihed, just need to go pick them up on Thursday when I can make the trip to get them. Gonna prob run that old short piece of exhaust for now to do test runs and drive it to the exhaust shop.
List is getting smaller,
I’m not sure if the fuel switch valve had constant power. Gonna connect a battery tomorrow after I get the starter installed and check it. Plan was to use that to power the LP since I’m not using that anymore. Then it’s just,
-fill everything with fluids
-install EGT probe and gauge(forgot about the probe before I set the motor in)
-finish intake and oil breather line
-wrap and install crossover
-figure out lower radiator hose
-install fan and belts.
-fill with diesel, prime and start!!
-install bed
oh,… and bleed brakes and alignment. Almost forgot.

 

[Truckman4life]

Did you make sure to put the correct brace on the starter?

 

[k5blazerguy]

Did you make sure to put the correct brace on the starter?

Yes. She’s on there!



Been working on it before and after work as it consumes all my thought process and so damn determined to have it done by Saturday or at least drivable.
Today got the LP wired using the tank valve wiring. I took the switch off the dash and took the 12v ign. and ground wire and looped them on the connector to the green wires (to keep from cutting the connector off in case we wanna use it later). Then used the two green wires going to the valve as my 12v + and - source to power the LP. I ended up cutting the 2 pin connector off the old filter housing as it matched up to the 6.5 LP connector.
Got called into work little early and ended up having to work late today. Got home with about an hour of daylight left and put in about 5 gallons of diesel in the tank, primed the filter housing (I seem to have decent pressure), and then took the GPs out to bleed the injectors. Reconnected pink wire and GPs and truck started up!!! I dont have radiator hoses hooked up yet so didn’t run it long. Need to run it for a bit to get all the air out of the injectors. It was just my goal today to hear it fire up.
Went on to wrapping the crossover and fighting with the old exhaust gasket that was stuck in the manifold. Also forgot to install the manifold studs before I put the motor in. So plan is to wake up early again and take the studs off the old motor, install the fan and belts, go pickup the new upper and lower hoses, finish the intake pipes, fill all the other fluids in the truck and see if she will drive down the road tomorrow evening! Looking like I’ll be able to surprise him on Saturday if all goes well. I’m just super excited right now.
Also need to see why the cold advance/fast idle isn’t getting power. Tried the switch on the side of the block and one I put up top and nothing prob have a wire unhooked somewhere. Wouldn’t be surprised with all the other lines I had to fix. Hopefully give you guys an awesome update tomorrow!

 

[k5blazerguy]

Here’s the flange he made and gasket from summit. Gonna run the old pipe for now till I can get it scheduled for the new exhaust.

 

[k5blazerguy]

Birthday Success! He was with his mom this morning and afternoon, so finished topping off all the fluids. Noticed the power steering pump is leaking all over my freshly wrapped crossover!! She’s gonna smoke for a bit. Main focus was to get it on the road and go pick him up today. Wasn’t getting power to cold advance so traced line back to firewall and still nothing, eventually found out that it’s connected to the gauges fuse and that was blown. FYI.
Installed the new bilsteins, got turbo intake on, advanced timing a line width because it’s idling kinda low and the idle screw is all the way in. Seems to run ok now. But it almost needs cold advance to start when it’s cold. The fast idle doesn’t even touch the lever. Didn’t wanna get hung up on that today so moved on to running wire for EGT gauge and bleeding the brakes. Ran into another issue where the rear brakes I couldn’t get fluid to come out of either side. Hooked up a hand vacuum pump to them and pumped them no luck. Gave up on it as time was crunching. Did a front end alignment and set the draglink.
installed shifter then fired her up and took it for a drive around the neighborhood! Ran great. Pretty cool hearing the turbo.
good to go. Brakes felt tight even though only the fronts for now. Put the bed on, cleaned out the front seat and set out for the maiden voyage to the gas station! Next stop, pick up my boy! Been a good day. Out here at the lake now trying to catch a monster cat. All he wanted to do for his bday is drive his truck and go fishing!

Front end sitting couple inches lower than the rear, may take the zero rates out the rear and put the 1/4” plates, possibly change front springs.

 

[Truckman4life]

That's awesome you got it done! Your prop valve probably shifted like they're supposed to do when you blow a line out back. I bet it just needs to be centered again and it will flow fluid.

 

[k5blazerguy]

That's awesome you got it done! Your prop valve probably shifted like they're supposed to do when you blow a line out back. I bet it just needs to be centered again and it will flow fluid.

Ahhhh. I forgot about that valve. Thanks!

 

[joshuak]

snip... Seems to run ok now. But it almost needs cold advance to start when it’s cold. The fast idle doesn’t even touch the lever....snip

Don't know if this is the case for you, but I remember the fast idle solenoid not pushing the lever. The solenoid would hold the lever down if I engaged it by depressing the accelerator pedal, half way or fully depending on temp on startup.

From the literature...

When WAIT light goes out

(1) If temperature is more than 32°,F (0°,C), press accelerator pedal halfway to floor
and hold.

(2) If temperature is less than 32°,F (0°,C), press accelerator pedal to floor and hold.

...

Nice work on the truck man it's looking real good. Scenery around your AO is tits too. Thanks for sharing.

 

[k5blazerguy]

...

Nice work on the truck man it's looking real good. Scenery around your AO is tits too. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks! I need to get a pic with all the squares lined up. Would be pretty cool. Got 5 out of 6 running! Haha actually I have 7 now just bought a K30 fire truck I need to go pick up. Couldn’t pass it up.

But after driving this truck last few days, I wanna work all the bugs out before handing over the keys for his new daily driver. He’s still learning how to drive a diesel and how to drive it differently than the other trucks while watching his EGTs and not pushing this motor too much. And with the 4 speed, he’s gettin the hang of it and learning how to listen to the motor and shift properly and all that. I want him to learn to be “in tune” with his truck. That’s how I am with all my trucks. You learn their behaviors and what they are capable of and can tell right away when something isn’t quite right.
So far only issues have been, fuel pressure dropping, low idle (idle screw buried in the linkage). Which I think what causes hard starts.
Yesterday, noticed the fuel pressure was dropping to 0 while it was running and only getting to 3psi when the truck was off. Replaced the brand new 6.5 Carter pump with the spare Napa pump I had on the old setup, still getting 3,…..bled the filter housing and shot up to 5, ok so had an air bubble,…..so I reinstalled the 6.5 Carter pump and looked good. Started the truck psi still good. After few min it dropped again to 0. Truck still running fine. Turned off truck for about 30 min and tried again, fuel pressure back up. So determined new LP is getting hot and crapping out. Put the Napa pump back on. That’s fixed for now, I’ll prob order a replacement 6.5 pump to put back on.

When it’s cold, it will start fine with cold advance on, just no high idle. But when CA kicks off, idle is low. After fully warmed up, cruising around, can come home turn off for an hour or so and cranks for a few seconds and have to apply a little throttle. Just doesn’t seem right. My CUCV just fires right up all the time hardly ever use the GPs unless first start of the day which seems normal.
I tried advancing the IP up to quarter inch just to see but had little to no affect on idle. I moved it back to “line width”. I found online a way of testing the timing is to use a screwdriver to press in the advance lever on side of IP housing. If engine cut out, then too much advance, if it stumbled and griped and complained, then timing spot on. When I tried that, it dropped the idle slightly. Figured it needed more advanced but kept looking around and still didn’t seem right that the idle screw was all the way in and I’m guessing that RPMs are around 500. So started moving the linkage to see what was going on, noticed the advance lever wasn’t really moving with the throttle and compared it to the CUCV. When looking at the clamp that goes around the throttle linkage shaft, it was slipping on the shaft. As I was moving the linkage to try and inspect it, the whole damn linkage popped off the end of the shaft!! Then I saw the clamp wasn’t tight because it was cracked. Hahaha. Damn. After walking away and getting called back into work, I was prepared to take everything apart and try to use my new IP I had on the old motor and just replace the whole thing. 2insane talked me into just replacing the linkage and shaft and realized I have 3 other motors I can pull parts from. lol.
Really appreciate @2INSANE for responding to my texts I’m sure it’s annoying by now, but it’s been super helpful. This past year I’ve learned a lot about the 6.2s and can do a lot but then I’ll get stuck on something and need some quick advice while I’m under the hood. Thanks!
Got home, had my son start removing the intake and I figured out how to remove the linkage assembly off an old IP. Then started dumping rain. So tomorrow get it back together. I’m thinking the linkage was messed up was why the idle screw was so all the way in and still had low idle. I’m hoping anyway.
Also, since I’ll have the top off the IP, is there a way to tell if the fuel has been turned up? Also had a thought that maybe fuel was turned down too much for the low idle. But I’m guessing there’s no way to tell. Just tryin to think of other things it could be.
Have the shop scheduled on Monday for the new 3” pipes, alignment and balance the tires. Be nice to go over 40 without the truck shaking.
I’ll post an update after I get this linkage replaced. Fingers crossed. lol.

 

[k5blazerguy]

New linkage in and after bleeding IP, fired right up!! High idle working too now that the screw isn’t all the way in. After it warmed up, high kicked down and I was able to get the idle just right.
This past few days driving it, I could tell a difference in power with the banks turbo. Wasn’t substantial but noticeable compared to a NA motor.
After replacing this linkage, and having the fuel advance working, it’s like a whole new truck. It has more power and runs awesome. Easier to start now. Much happier with it today. Pretty comparable to my blazer with the vortec 5.7 and mild cam. I may play with the timing to get it juuuust right. But for now it’s great.
i may move the CA/high idle to the normal temp switch location on side of the block and see if it will kick down the idle at a little lower temp. I’m using the one behind the intake but it doesn’t cut the idle off till 150-160.
Also have oil coming back into the intake, not sure if it’s from the pcv/decompression valve or from the oil feed on the turbo. Noticed this when I was reinstalling the intake.

 

[2INSANE]

Well done with all the work you have accomplished!

If the CDR is still venting into the Airbox, it is normal to have oil get sucked into the intake. If the oil looks excessive, the CDR could be bad.

Have you tried driving up a 6% grade hill yet to see if you are getting up to 7 psi boost with the banks turbo since you got it running good? Empty, you should be able to climb a 6% grade hill at at least 60-65 mph.

 

[k5blazerguy]

Well done with all the work you have accomplished!

If the CDR is still venting into the Airbox, it is normal to have oil get sucked into the intake. If the oil looks excessive, the CDR could be bad.

Have you tried driving up a 6% grade hill yet to see if you are getting up to 7 psi boost with the banks turbo since you got it running good? Empty, you should be able to climb a 6% grade hill at at least 60-65 mph.

I haven’t yet connected the turbo gauge. The line I got with the kit was broke and gonna order another today. There’s about a mile long 8% grade up to my house. Before, with old motor, shift down into 3rd and it would hold 35 up the hill black smoke everywhere. lol. Speed limit 40. The CUCV same thing, but has TH400 so shifting into 2nd and holds 35. Prob could hold 40 if I pushed it a little more. Not tryin to keep the EGTs or rpms too high. EGT will get to about 900-1000. I don’t let the truck get hotter than that.
yesterday after the fixes, truck will make it further up the hill in 4th and when I downshift between 35-40, it will gain speed. So much nicer.

I will order a new CDR then and hopefully limit the amount of oil getting back into the air box and turbo.
I’ve heard of people routing the hose to the bottom of the truck to keep oil from going back in the intake. But also heard it needs to be hooked up to the intake to create a small vacuum to help draw the air out of the crankcase to prevent blowing seals, does anyone have experience just routing the hose to the bottom of the truck? I’d rather not have the oil getting back into the intake and making a mess after just cleaning everything.

 

[imiceman44]

I haven’t yet connected the turbo gauge. The line I got with the kit was broke and gonna order another today. There’s about a mile long 8% grade up to my house. Before, with old motor, shift down into 3rd and it would hold 35 up the hill black smoke everywhere. lol. Speed limit 40. The CUCV same thing, but has TH400 so shifting into 2nd and holds 35. Prob could hold 40 if I pushed it a little more. Not tryin to keep the EGTs or rpms too high. EGT will get to about 900-1000. I don’t let the truck get hotter than that.
yesterday after the fixes, truck will make it further up the hill in 4th and when I downshift between 35-40, it will gain speed. So much nicer.

I will order a new CDR then and hopefully limit the amount of oil getting back into the air box and turbo.
I’ve heard of people routing the hose to the bottom of the truck to keep oil from going back in the intake. But also heard it needs to be hooked up to the intake to create a small vacuum to help draw the air out of the crankcase to prevent blowing seals, does anyone have experience just routing the hose to the bottom of the truck? I’d rather not have the oil getting back into the intake and making a mess after just cleaning everything.

Routing the hose down is only good when the oil blowby is excessive and the pressure going back in is too much.
I have an engine that was leaking oil from every seal and gasket, rerouted that hose and leak stopped

 

[k5blazerguy]

Routing the hose down is only good when the oil blowby is excessive and the pressure going back in is too much.
I have an engine that was leaking oil from every seal and gasket, rerouted that hose and leak stopped

Apparently auto parts stores don’t carry them. I may just take it apart and clean it and leave it be. Banks obviously added the port on their air box for a reason. lol. Just have to live with some oil getting back into the intake.