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Old faithful

I would suggest that you play nicely with your 10 bolt though. I haven't broken my 12 bolt with the big block in my '70, but I know that I can't beat on it hard. But I wanted to keep it 6 lug and didn't want to build a custom axle.
 
I would suggest that you play nicely with your 10 bolt though. I haven't broken my 12 bolt with the big block in my '70, but I know that I can't beat on it hard. But I wanted to keep it 6 lug and didn't want to build a custom axle.
thanks, I don't plan on doing any serious off-roading in it since its a daily driver, but once the rear end grenades I plan on keeping the current set-up and just upgrading to some better axle shafts and gears. mostly I need to get at least a 3 link set-up for the rear end because I cant even get past 3/4 throttle from a stop or the rear end feels like its squatting low af.
 
May I suggest that you check into chrome-moly axleshafts now to see what is available? The gears and the rest should be available in the future, but the shafts may become custom order if there isn't enough of a market anymore.

If the rear is squatting hard, the front is probably lifting some as well. That is weight transfer!! Keeps the tires planted!
:saweet:

I wouldn't let that bother me too much, but it's your truck.
Watch what the trucks racing off road do, soft suspension and big power are awesome!!
 
May I suggest that you check into chrome-moly axleshafts now to see what is available? The gears and the rest should be available in the future, but the shafts may become custom order if there isn't enough of a market anymore.

If the rear is squatting hard, the front is probably lifting some as well. That is weight transfer!! Keeps the tires planted!
:saweet:

I wouldn't let that bother me too much, but it's your truck.
Watch what the trucks racing off road do, soft suspension and big power are awesome!!

yeah I was actually already considering the chrome-moly axle shafts, I heard about them and they seem to be the way to go if your not planning on going the 1 ton axle route. I hadn't considered the market being small, ill have to look into it.

These dang trucks transfer weight easily I guess cuz they are short wheelbase and tall!

love watching the trophy trucks they are badass how they just eat up huge jumps and bumps, BJ Baldwins K5 "Loki" (I think that's how you spell it) is pretty sick if you've never seen it you gotta check it out!
 
alright quick update, finally ordered the disc break conversion kit, the guys over at TSM said I could run the old master cylinder with just a new proportioning valve but id have a spongy break pedal feel. So.. I'm getting the proportioning valve from Summit "SUM-760185" its supposed to work with front and rear discs with a 60-40 break bias. I also found a master cylinder from AC Delco for the 1980 corvette that has all around disc breaks and supposedly the same connectors as well, so if the forum I pulled this info from is accurate this should be the combo.

https://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-20313.html
 
Surprised the 10b rear didn't shell first but good carnage none the less. Nice work!
 
Alright got a question, put in new u joints had the drive shaft up in the tcase and now suddenly its too long. the ears on the yoke won't clear the prop shaft and fit so that I can put on the ujoint straps at the rear end. Obviously the driveshaft didn't grow, but its about 1/4-1/2 an inch from fitting and this is this is with the slipyoke all the way in the tcase (,there should be a little play in that for travel right?)
 
So fully drooped the rear end took off the u bolts one had a slight bend im talking almost not even noticeable lined up next to the rest. Then pulled out the center pins for the leafsprings. One also had a slight bend but minimal. Besides that the shackles look normal the springs are straight as I can tell. I ordered new ubolts and center pins ill but im highly suspicious this will fix the issue
 
Maybe the driveshaft was too long to begin with and you bottomed it out and sheared those u-joints off
 
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