Nice finds
Hood don't look too bad.
Hood don't look too bad.
CK5
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Old Iron Build ('79 K5 Cheyenne)
- Thread starter handloader90
- Start date
handloader90
Building!
Nice finds
Hood don't look too bad.
I think it's in pretty good shape. I might just cut those small spots out with a die grinder and weld some new sheet metal in there.
I need to take some laquer thinner and get that spray paint off too.
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
What kid of lift does the 64s give with the shackle filp? I have a set laying around along with a set of 8" superlifts for the front... I wondering how well that combo will match up.
handloader90
Building!
I believe 4"-6" with stock 64's. I think the number of leaves and the arch will play a big part in it.
So with 8" lift springs maybe 12"-14".
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handloader90
Building!
Here is the reason I bought a replacement hood. 
I ended up removing the spray paint from the hood with a little electric sander that I have in the garage. I wanted to just rub it off with laquer thinner but it didn't like that.
I installed the hood shortly after removing the paint by myself. Man that sucker is hard to manipulate. I got it on there just fine though. I got the front of the hood near the grill lined up perfectly with the fenders and such. It is raised above the fender in the rear though. I have this same problem with my K10 , I went in and tried to adjust the hood hinges but the were already set as low as they could go. I'll chalk it up as old hood hinges. It's not a big deal to me either way.
I ended up removing the spray paint from the hood with a little electric sander that I have in the garage. I wanted to just rub it off with laquer thinner but it didn't like that.
I installed the hood shortly after removing the paint by myself. Man that sucker is hard to manipulate. I got it on there just fine though. I got the front of the hood near the grill lined up perfectly with the fenders and such. It is raised above the fender in the rear though. I have this same problem with my K10 , I went in and tried to adjust the hood hinges but the were already set as low as they could go. I'll chalk it up as old hood hinges. It's not a big deal to me either way.
handloader90
Building!
I took some of the front end off today in preparation for the upcoming rivet removal. I was going to take the whole front clip off but I'm able to get to the rivets that I need to so I left it at that. I'll need to remove the inner fenderwells to install the DIY4X Shackle Frame Eye Hangers. I'll probably get that done tomorrow.
I vacuumed the carpet today and picked up all of the P.O.'s leftovers and it turned out really well. I found out that the rear seat folds and tumbles and has a nice little arm/ bar with a locking mechanism on it that keeps the seat from plopping back when driving.
I vacuumed the carpet today and picked up all of the P.O.'s leftovers and it turned out really well. I found out that the rear seat folds and tumbles and has a nice little arm/ bar with a locking mechanism on it that keeps the seat from plopping back when driving.
handloader90
Building!
I might just go ahead and do the 1" pucks just to get to stuff easier. Does it mess with any of the linkages or anything? I'm guessing not so much with just 1" more between the frame and body.
handloader90
Building!
I ended up pulling the inner fenderwells tonight. Took about 20 mins. to get them out.
The inner fenderwells are fried. I'll have to source some more.
It looks like I'll have enough room to remove the old shackle hangers without getting hung up on things.
The inner fenderwells are fried. I'll have to source some more.
It looks like I'll have enough room to remove the old shackle hangers without getting hung up on things.
It is MUCH easier to work on things underneath with the 1" body lift.
My Suburban is a 4 speed (or at least it was by the time I put the body lift on), so other than the shifter being slightly lower than I was used to, I didn't adjust anything. My NP208 shifted just fine afterwards. I should have adjusted my fan shroud, but it was already damaged, so I just let the fan self clearance the shroud....
Martin
handloader90
Building!
Thanks for the info! I'll need to replace the bushings anyway so I may throw some 1" pucks on top of them while I'm doing it.
I recommend going with the LMC OEM style rubber replacement body mounts, as they come with all of the hardware. Ask Dueling if he agrees with me now.
Martin
Martin
the wheels look like 15x8" Corvette Rallye wheels...but in 6 lug!
The spare I would say isn't the original as it has a tire sticker on it... OEM came without stickers from the factory (at least in my observance) It dont' really matter though as long as your not restoring it. There might be a date code on the tire somewhere if it was made in the last 30 years or so.
handloader90
Building!
Got some rivets removed yesterday or the day before. Took about 25-30 mins. per side with a center punch, corded variable speed drill, cobalt bits, large punch, 3 lb. sledge and the occasional chisel.
Parts back from sandblasting. Primed with Rustoleum Self Etch and Painted with Rustoleum Hammer Finish.
Removing the shackle hanger rivets tomorrow, opening up holes on both sides to accommodate DIY4X shackle hangers.
Gonna bolt up B52's, shackle hangers and the 56" springs with the short side forward pushing the axle 4" forward.
I'll be removing the sway bar and all hardware and bushings. I got two of the bracket bolts removed, the other two are way up behind some metal and hard to reach, I'll figure it out tomorrow.
Parts back from sandblasting. Primed with Rustoleum Self Etch and Painted with Rustoleum Hammer Finish.
Removing the shackle hanger rivets tomorrow, opening up holes on both sides to accommodate DIY4X shackle hangers.
Gonna bolt up B52's, shackle hangers and the 56" springs with the short side forward pushing the axle 4" forward.
I'll be removing the sway bar and all hardware and bushings. I got two of the bracket bolts removed, the other two are way up behind some metal and hard to reach, I'll figure it out tomorrow.
handloader90
Building!
I think I'll be building front and rear bumpers that resemble the one in the photos below.
My first attempt at welding can be seen below also.
.35 flux core wire on 1/4" flat stock on 110v using recommended settings. I'm still working on the 220v install in the garage and I need a helluva lot of practice on fusing metal together.
My first attempt at welding can be seen below also.
.35 flux core wire on 1/4" flat stock on 110v using recommended settings. I'm still working on the 220v install in the garage and I need a helluva lot of practice on fusing metal together.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Nice to see your making progress on the project.
Alot of work but its going to be fun. Your description and needs is pretty much how i ended up with my burban. I needed more seating than a blazer could give.
So did you sell that nice blazer to your brother?
Alot of work but its going to be fun. Your description and needs is pretty much how i ended up with my burban. I needed more seating than a blazer could give.
So did you sell that nice blazer to your brother?
Let me know if you need help wiring up the 220v. I wired my own at the house and I taught that shtuff at the school house for 3 years.
handloader90
Building!
I ended up selling it to a guy on Craigslist. Its probably still rolling around Colorado Springs. I regret that decision everyday. I ended up buying an '86 Jimmy and that went to my Brother.
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handloader90
Building!
I most definitely will need help! I don't even know what to buy to get it started. I have open slots in the breaker box and want to run the wire outside of the wall through conduit.
That's easy enough. Just let me know.
handloader90
Building!
B52's and shackle hangers bolted up.
I was gonna pull the whole axle out with the leaf springs, swaybar and driveline still hooked up and roll it around the side of the house. I put some jackstands under the frame and it just wasn't stable enough for me to be under banging on stuff with the sledge so I kept the axle under there.
Shackle hanger rivets weren't too bad, I had to jack the body off the frame to get to the top rear rivet and fu**ed the passenger side bolt that is in the sheet metal for the body mount. Not a big deal, I need to weld in new floor pan pieces anyways so I'll take care of that then.
Enlarged the holes with a double hole saw contraption. Worked beautifully. Cleaned up the hole with the dremel.
I was going to install the 56" springs today but I forgot I left the steel sleeves in the spring eyes when I removed the bushings. So I have to figure that out tomorrow. I'm gonna try and cut them with my hacksaw and maybe punch them ou or something. Last time I used a shop press and knocked everything out at once.
I was gonna pull the whole axle out with the leaf springs, swaybar and driveline still hooked up and roll it around the side of the house. I put some jackstands under the frame and it just wasn't stable enough for me to be under banging on stuff with the sledge so I kept the axle under there.
Shackle hanger rivets weren't too bad, I had to jack the body off the frame to get to the top rear rivet and fu**ed the passenger side bolt that is in the sheet metal for the body mount. Not a big deal, I need to weld in new floor pan pieces anyways so I'll take care of that then.
Enlarged the holes with a double hole saw contraption. Worked beautifully. Cleaned up the hole with the dremel.
I was going to install the 56" springs today but I forgot I left the steel sleeves in the spring eyes when I removed the bushings. So I have to figure that out tomorrow. I'm gonna try and cut them with my hacksaw and maybe punch them ou or something. Last time I used a shop press and knocked everything out at once.
