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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

Again, you are doing an amazing job.
Really appreciate it. What started out as a basic fabrication project has turned into something surprisingly larger: new radiator, water pump, AC, and perhaps a few other "might as well" items (I'm told were allowed one free use of that phrase before @Greg72 charges royalties).

I'm targeting no later than the end of May to be back rolling. Hotrod Power Tour rolls through Texas, and I'm not driving the wife's car.

David
 
Really appreciate it. What started out as a basic fabrication project has turned into something surprisingly larger: new radiator, water pump, AC, and perhaps a few other "might as well" items (I'm told were allowed one free use of that phrase before @Greg72 charges royalties).

I'm targeting no later than the end of May to be back rolling. Hotrod Power Tour rolls through Texas, and I'm not driving the wife's car.

David


Just be sure to use the proper trademark:

Might As Well™


....and everything is cool. :)


-G
 
These projects have a way of growing into more then what was intended. But in this case you're doing a lot a maintenence at the same time.
 
Just gotta say, that is some serious hardcore core support work you're doing. Looking good. Those supports looked like some tight welding to get in the thin ends.
Thank you. The original torque boxes (I'm completely comfortable appropriating that term from the Mopar community) were on the back side of the core, and a direct vertical tie from the body mounts to the box across the top. Since that space is now consumed by an intercooler, the boxes moved to the front and are now less of a direct connection, hence the overbuilding.

I'm very happy with the control of the Hobart 210. It's a big step up from my Lincoln 125, and has made a big impact on the quality of my work. There's been discussion elsewhere on sheet metal tacking, and I too subscribe to the "go in hot and don't dwell too long" method. I make most box-type parts from 16 ga, which is very forgiving. Also, that 1/4" piece of copper buss bar comes in handy.

These projects have a way of growing into more then what was intended.
Truth.

David
 
Also, that 1/4" piece of copper buss bar comes in handy.

Question...why use a heat-conducting bar instead of an insulator? I'm not a great welder, but I thought robbing heat from the weld zone was a bad thing. I'm used to welding on top of a piece of concrete-board. :dunno:
 
Power Tour rolls through here shortly after, unfortunately I have nothing worthy of driving/entering.
 
Heat warps. In sheet metal it's easy to get enough heat to fuse 2 peices together. The longer that heat stays in the metal and the further it travels, the more likely you are to warp said metal
 
I haven't been in years, are there still way too many PT Cruisers?
Since Roadkill, there are a lot more folks with their hand-built hotrods, creased body lines and all. There are still plenty of dentists with shop-built 1st gen Camaros or Rustangs. Lots of late model stuff, too.

I have family in Austin, so it's too close not to go, plus it should draw out the strong pre-68 crowd down there.

David
 
Waiting for my friendly UPS delivery person - AC condenser inbound from San Antonio.
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David
 
Busy few nights in the shop, both setbacks and progress to share.

I whipped up some test ends for the intercooler. It leaked. Set that aside for later, because I'm kind of pissed that I wasted money having it welded, when I should have had my brother in law (talented with a TIG torch) do it from the start.
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Moving along. The AC condenser arrived, and is the last piece I need to finish the cooler stack. Engine and transmission coolers are mounted high to allow the condenser to tilt, fitting closely behind the grill. The grill has a tab toward the bottom that needed to be reformed for clearance.

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The center brace is reformed to be in two pieces and makes space for the condenser.

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With the modified core support, the factory marker/signal lamps don't fit. Founds some LED ones on etrailer that should fit pretty well.
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Closing in.

David
 
Sucks to hear the intercooler leaks. I'd call the guy that did and bitch. He should of tested it before giving it back to you.

Everything is looking good though. You might need a different flasher to use the leds.
 
Agree with you both. I'll see him this week, but I'm not going to ask him to repair the leaks. That stays in house. Best I could hope for is some money back. He was not defensive when we spoke in the phone, so we'll see.

How would my current flasher/relay not work with these lights? It's all 12v, but I've not installed LED anywhere else on the truck.

David
 
Unless the amp load changed enough, my guess would be a bad ground.

At one point I suffered through some temperamental times with those things. Eventually got one from the auto store that worked up to its stated amp load
 

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