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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

Did you guys use the big block or small block ord cross member?
Pretty sure the diesel uses the small block one.
"Minimal lift" sounds a lot shorter than the truck we've come to know...
It’s probably going to be similar in height to the K30 convertible, so ~2” lower than it is now. At least, that’s what I’m targeting. We’ll see what hits and fits.

David
 
I used the small block one with the LS and spaced the engine a inch and a half higher with custom mounts.

My panhard goes a qtr inch below the crank pulley full bump.

Sorry for the terrible picture but you can see.

Screenshot_20200617-154648_Facebook.jpg
 
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Yessir. As Stephen and I discussed, pushing shocks through the floor, is a large sentence. The truck needs to maintain its multi-tool utility, and that means maintaining the interior cargo area in its current form. All that, and the next big upgrade I do to this truck, will be to build a new truck.

David

Sounds like you need to build a cantilever setup for the rear. Should be plenty of room under a suburban to run the coilovers horizontal.
 
Wrong house..... I'll call Fed-Ex today and let them know.
Kings and ORIs? Might as well.
Sounds like you need to build a cantilever setup for the rear. Should be plenty of room under a suburban to run the coilovers horizontal.
My credit card statement disagrees.

Stephen and I talked about finagling rear coilovers and links, but settled that we can get 90%+ of the same performance out of a set of 64s and nice smooth-body Kings. From there, the next upgrade to this truck's suspension, will be to build a different truck.
Can't wait to see you put your spin on the ORD coil over/link setup. Awesome.
Most of my interpretation will come from wrapping the engine cage around my 6.2. I see a few notable conflicts: the turbo, the downpipe, the crossover pipe, most of my exhaust after the downpipe, the intake charge pipe, the PSC remote reservoir, and the radiator return hose. I think that's about it.

But, I like solving these problems. The downpipe is the only one that has some hard boundaries to work out.

David
 
Yesterday was a good start.

The tarp is up, and the truck is fully leveled on some heavy duty screw jacks – front to back and side to side. I have a backup set of conventional stands under the slider, and the rear tires are still in place as safeties. It’s a heavy truck, and I’d like to keep it from crushing me or my friends.

If you saw on the instagrams, I did a quick cycle of the suspension to show how the axle moves forward 1.5-2" from static to full extension. It's also on video for a later episode, but showcases the bargain leaf packs have to make to locate the axle and provide spring rate.
867162E1-BB84-42F6-8DE1-F46E9D36B6FC.jpeg

CEB96336-55A6-47BC-B893-70C27182D124.jpeg

E7B0EE39-8A1B-456F-A0CD-BB044AE1CC5C.jpeg

Glad I got the new ORD Kevlar grease cups.
F09B1FB7-109F-4FB6-8BB4-B545A05AA6CD.jpeg

From there, it’s a standard axle removal.
F9505CF0-88D5-4611-805A-682BFFEB34D9.jpeg

The Pivotal axle skates are pretty darned slick.
8E34BF4B-3612-47E0-A39F-71C6DC8786D7.jpeg

David
 
I enjoy steady, methodical progress. That’s going to be a continued theme.

I got my fixture table setup as my axle workstation. A quick zip of the 3-3/8 hole saw and some table clamps is all it takes.
E374370D-5359-4CAA-A384-6F1E7F4AFCCF.jpeg

I haven’t taken this axle down since I built it in 2005, so this was a good chance to cleanup and get it ready for the next 15 years.
F3B213D2-9C79-46A6-9C4C-B7DDEBDF4288.jpeg

The performance and wear check on these bushings was good. Normally, these are dead nylon soldiers. Not today.
D600138A-57D9-4F50-BB24-3DA7F3B81EBA.jpeg

Stripped, cleaned, and ready for some plasma.
ABD17A1B-0A6B-438C-A49E-33732C401E9D.jpeg

What used to take me hours when I was a dumb kid, now takes about 10 minutes.
B2E5CEC6-BA38-4CA5-86FD-05F21C323C01.jpeg

I should have ordered the offset nozzle so I wouldn’t have to grind as much.
4E2D8AA4-B267-42AB-B75F-E804D682A650.jpeg

Organized and ready for inspection/reassembly.
C5E51C0A-5039-44F3-8EDB-774924BA4B38.jpeg

Next up: cleaning the tubes, pressing out the old studs, turning down the hubs, test fitting the link brackets, and sketching a truss.

David
 
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Fighting rust/crude/general greasyness.
Much nicer with new parts and hardware.
A thought did enter my mind in response to the question, how do kingpins work?

Grease. Lots of it.

David
 
I enjoy steady, methodical progress. That’s going to be a continued theme.

I got my fixture table setup as my axle workstation. A quick zip of the 3-3/8 hole saw and some table clamps is all it takes.
View attachment 344393

I haven’t taken this axle down since I built it in 2005, so this was a good chance to cleanup and get it ready for the next 15 years.
View attachment 344394

The performance and wear check on these bushings was good. Normally, these are dead nylon soldiers. Not today.
View attachment 344395

Stripped, cleaned, and ready for some plasma.
View attachment 344396

What used to take me hours when I was a dumb kid, now takes about 10 minutes.
View attachment 344397

View attachment 344398

I should have ordered the offset nozzle so I wouldn’t have to grind as much.
View attachment 344398

Organized and ready for inspection/reassembly.
View attachment 344399

Next up: cleaning the tubes, pressing out the old studs, turning down the hubs, test fitting the link brackets, and sketching a truss.

David
Not sure if you have the bolts yet for the caliper but they are H839. I got mine straight from Dodge dealer. The torq bracket isn’t as thick as the stock Ram, so I had to trim the bolt length down a 1/4” or so, as to not hit the rotor.
 

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