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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

Do you normally have that brake cable mounted to a fixed point? I never thought about how the sliders might interfere with the factory mounting bracket.
I never moved it from the original location which has two brackets coming off the frame, and I did end up scraping it a bit one time. I'll have to rebuild it to accommodate the rear parking brake, and will place it higher or otherwise out of the way of the new sliders.

David
 
Lots of small steps add up.

Bench assembly of the Torq bracket on the knuckle.
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They recommended a stud that is probably only suited for steel wheels.
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The next size up should be fine for my KMCs - Dorman 610-383
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Everything fit, and like @Fastereddie, I’ll have to trim the M20 bolt or make a spacer.
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All air hammered together.
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Outer axle seals - hopefully they’ll keep grit out of the tubes and extend the life of the inners.
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New seals, freshly packed bearings, and new lower pins.
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I noticed a tear in the axle to spindle seal, which I should have just ordered at the start of this, so I’ll pick this back up in a day or so.

Time to prep the frame on the truck.

David

@AgDieseler
Hey I just remembered this... make sure you set the upper caliper bolt in place when you put the spindle on. I couldn’t get mine in after the fact because of the steering arm...
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I spent the week doing prep so the weekend is free for more significant progress.

I’m going to place the link mounts pretty far back, so the trans crossmember had to come out. I’ll remake this to be lighter and simpler.
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Working with @Deuling to develop some overlay plates that integrate with the ORD steering frame plate. He’ll have a 5 plate kit for sale before too long.
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And I found these hairline cracks at the steering box. I’ve had a brace on it for close to 20 years, and hydro assist for 7 or 8. This junk just eventually breaks.
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Also, fresh front cab body mounts.
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Other small tasks - pulled them exhaust crossover, removed the front brake hard lines and proportioning valve, removed the entire exhaust.

Time to finish the 60 and get to cycling.

David
 
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Brakes are assembled and the axle is on the ground. I did end up having to trim the caliper bolts about 1/8” to make them not protrude beyond the pad carrier and get too close to the rotor.

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Its a tight fit on the corner.
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Off the table, and ready to skate under the truck.
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David
 
Not everyday is a hero day, but it’s certainly a good one when the axle goes back under the truck.

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Link mounts are modified and clamped. I pushed these back behind the body mount to keep the links decently long and as flat as possible. For reference, the rear of the plate is 10-3/8” behind the rear body mount hardware (or rivet).

The frame is showing it’s age and stress from wheeling (I’ve been spoiled lately by the Rev2 Charger frame), so I made a few spacers so they are square and parallel-ish. It’s all within 0.5 degrees. I trimmed 3/4 off the top just so there’s a good pocket to weld once it’s all on the frame.

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The axle is in place, and square and level. Since I leveled the truck using my buddy’s super stands, I knew the axle would be easy to match.

It’s pretty much in the same spot as it was on the ORD springs - 1” forward - and I will continue to dial that after links are built and the rest of the locating hardware gets in position. The initial bump location puts the engine mount bolt about 1” behind the leading end of the pad. I referenced some photos Stephen had from the Alaskabama army truck build to get this started.

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The axle never stuffed this far up with the leaf packs - I just had too much lift on it - so this the first step in getting the truck a bit more hunkered down. There’s not much room above the housing - maybe 3/4” - so this is about it.

Tonight is all about link building and formalizing what those ratchet straps and jack stands are doing.

David
 

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