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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

Working through some rear suspension details prior to mock-up, I’ve diverted to the integration of other miscellaneous systems.

First - DC power. Most of this stuff sat on the inner fender wheel, so some reroute was required, and I took the opportunity to rethink and standardize how I managed power and ground.

The distribution points are from painless, and the starter, both alternators, and winch draw power from here, while a jumper takes power to a busbar on the firewall and powers the AC, trans, lights, and radio. There’s a busbar for ground, too, and standardizes the ground path so everything has a direct-to-battery ground as well as chassis and body. It all ohm’d out, and I’ll do a smoke check this week.

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Sort of parallel, I also did the power steering And ram lines. The former is fully converted to AN, and the latter takes a somewhat circuitous route to get to the ram itself. I always like having ram lines move alongside the leaf pack, so I duplicated that effect with the link.

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Finally, some might recall that I shredded an aluminum PSC pulley some years ago. I’ve run a standard 7.5” steel unit since that time, but am giving this steel/aluminum hybrid piece a try. I like the smaller diameter for responsiveness, and the heavier hub for durability. We’ll see.

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I’m still waiting on some gear from Vibrant for my downpipe, but I do have enough to start on the upper and lower radiator hoses, and the turbo charge pipes.

David
 
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88-95 tbi c/k trucks have a similar bus bar on the firewall. They don't have the cover, but they are plentiful at the boneyards. I've got two on mine.
 
New engine oil lines are bent and flared. I forgot how much I enjoy this detail-type work.

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Coolant filter is mounted, lines are half routed, and the last fittings arrived yesterday, so that’s the next item to wrap up.

David
 
The odds and ends continue.

Quick side project to make a dual alternator bracket for our friend, Andy. A few more folks also ordered one, and those are in production.
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Engine oil soft lines are routed. What used to route on and around the inner fenders now runs through and near the engine cage. It’s cozy.
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Finally settled on the location for the Wilwood proportioning valve.
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And I started in on the upper and lower radiator hoses. Turns out, there’s nothing at the parts store for my setup. That’s cool. I like making junk out of stainless tubing.
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Tubing is 1.75 304 from Vibrant, as are the pie cuts.
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I’ve got my stainless pulse settings about where I like them: 56A, 62% on, 30% background, 1.3Hz. The speed is about right for my skill level, though some do half the time on and twice the amps.
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I’m consolidating the heater and coolant filter returns into the upper hose, so these are fit and ready to burn.
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I’ll finish this upper, add a bleed port, and get to the lower.

David
 
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For the uneducated, why go dual alternators instead of one bigger one? Just to split the load or cost or what's the reasoning? I have always hated the Ford super duties with dual alternators but they run a whole second belt setup on an already crowded engine.
 
I like the idea of running two 100A alternators for a few reasons, in no particular order:
  • Use of a commercially available part that’s easy to find and service
  • Basic redundancy
  • Lighter load on each alternator for a presumed longer life - I’ve had each of these CS130s for 15 years
If your accessory drive only allows for a single alternator, a big 200A would accomplish the same basic tasks as two 100As, so it largely depends on what you prefer. More options have come online in the last 10 years, and I kind of think this like the old dual shock thinking - fewer valving options resulted in a need to run more than one shock. These days, you can dial in exactly what you want with a single shock. To me, the argument for dual alternators is very similar.

David
 
I like the idea of running two 100A alternators for a few reasons, in no particular order:
  • Use of a commercially available part that’s easy to find and service
  • Basic redundancy
  • Lighter load on each alternator for a presumed longer life - I’ve had each of these CS130s for 15 years
If your accessory drive only allows for a single alternator, a big 200A would accomplish the same basic tasks as two 100As, so it largely depends on what you prefer. More options have come online in the last 10 years, and I kind of think this like the old dual shock thinking - fewer valving options resulted in a need to run more than one shock. These days, you can dial in exactly what you want with a single shock. To me, the argument for dual alternators is very similar.

David
Thanks. Kinda what I assumed but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.
 
Lots more stainless welding for the upper and lower radiator hoses.

I consolidated the heater and filter return lines into the upper return, eliminating something like 3’ of heater hose from the past setup. I also staggered those fittings to favor the heater, so maybe I don’t have to wait as long to get comfy on a cold day.

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The lower twists quite a bit, but was overall a simpler piece to build.
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They each passed a 30 psi pressure check, and are ready for install. Onward to the charge pipes.

David
 

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