One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

[AgDieseler]

You need the Dakota Digital converter for the 4th alternator wire. Thankfully it is adjustable. The MT1480 really makes that easy and accurate.

That's good to know. I use that little converter right now for my crank-triggered signal, so just moving the input is easy (plus the DD is bluetooth controllable). What do you have the Dakota Digital signal converter set on (I think mine is on 8 or 9) right now?

David

 

[Barrman]

I mounted mine to the side of the brake pedal housing. So I could reach in there to make adjustments without taking stuff all apart and to keep it out of the weather. I will try to get a mirror to see the number.

I mounted the adapter on the engine side of the firewall for my 6.2 powered M715. 27si V belt alternators so totally different. That one is set to number 4 I believe with an Autometer tach. I will look at it too.

 

[AugustDiesel]

I'm just switching from the old style pump drive that has a vacuum pump on the top of it to one with a hall effect sensor. Same same, really. I guess I could take the signal from that fourth prong on the alternator, if needed. Good thought.


It's exposure therapy.

David

You happen to have a part number for this fancy pants pump drive with sensor? I’m planning to delete my vacuum pump drive as well and this would be quite handy.

 

[Barrman]

Both of my trucks have the older Dakota Digital DSL-1 converter. The unit under the hood of the M715 doesn’t display anything anymore. I wasn’t able to see the display on the Cowdog truck. So, no accurate setting numbers to report.

I have not visited the Dakota Digital website since I bought my gauges for the Suburban 5 years ago. Their own app and Bluetooth. Maybe if I ever build up one of the M1009s I can use those features.

You are going to love the GEP engine.

 

[KirsL]

Okay, so here's the rundown on what's coming together:

• 6.5 will all the fancy new forged stuff running 20.2:1 (about the same as how my 6.2 was setup)
• New DB2 injection pump rated for 250hp (which is about 520 lb-ft at the 1800-2000 torque peak)
• New Bosch higher pressure injectors with the full flow nozzle (no metering needle)
• I sprang for new injector lines while I was at it
• New FASS lift pump and filter system, because @KirsL made it look so sweet
• Head studs and main studs

Once it arrives, it'll get blown apart (in a good way), and:

• get balanced - I'll take it to the same race shop that balanced the 6.2 way back in 2001, and they'll put their hands on everything in between the balancer and flexplate
• send the secondary compression rings to Total Seal to be made "gapless"
• I'll port match the heads and manifolds
• transfer over my timing gears and 6.2 front cover
• move the darned turbo oil drain down to the side of the oil pan
• move the tach from being crank triggered to a new ESS on the oil drive
• make up a small set of "steam lines" similar to LS engines for the back cooling passages where the heads tend to heat soak at #7 and #8

I haven't been this excited about engine stuff in a long time. My bank account isn't thrilled, but at least I'm smiling from ear to ear.

David

I love being an influence to folks spending money

Fass has actually come out with a 6.5 specific setup. Pricy but so worth it though. I added this from Quadstar.

I just used the piece on the left. Allowed me to use a -4 AN line to my fuel pressure gauge.



I've switched that gauge out since this photo was taken.

I've heard mixed results with pulling coolant from the back of the heads. Now if you keep the lines small it may work just fine .

 

[82355]

This is much more interesting than a Duramax swap.

Martin

 

[imiceman44]

This is much more interesting than a Duramax swap.

Martin

If it wasn't so expensive I would totally agree

 

[AgDieseler]

That one is set to number 4 I believe with an Autometer tach. I will look at it too.

That's a close start. My DD is bluetooth, so adjustment to match the snap on timing meter is pretty easy.

You happen to have a part number for this fancy pants pump drive with sensor?

Yessir. https://www.udgmtruck.com/6250123

You are going to love the GEP engine.

I actually think my dad is more excited to build this engine than I am. He even bought a new torque wrench.

Fass has actually come out with a 6.5 specific setup.

I noticed they added it somewhat recently, so it's what I ordered. It's certainly an elegant way to upgrade the filter and pump all at the same time

I've heard mixed results with pulling coolant from the back of the heads. Now if you keep the lines small it may work just fine

I'm thinking truly a set of "steam lines" no bigger than -06.

This is much more interesting than a Duramax swap.

I also find it greatly appealing to try and deliver on the promise of this platform.

David

 

[campfire]

• make up a small set of "steam lines" similar to LS engines for the back cooling passages where the heads tend to heat soak at #7 and #8

Will these connect to the stock temp sensor/switch holes? If so, what spot(s) will you be using for these functions? If not, where will they connect to the water jacket?

 

[campfire]

my 6.2 powered M715.

Do you have a thread for this? I don't want to clog up David's thread, but we absolutely need pictures...

 

[AgDieseler]

Will these connect to the stock temp sensor/switch holes? If so, what spot(s) will you be using for these functions?

I’ll draw up and laser new crossover plates for the rear of the heads and just weld on the AN fittings. I draw head temp from the coolant crossover up front.

David

 

[campfire]

I’ll draw up and laser new crossover plates for the rear of the heads and just weld on the AN fittings. I draw head temp from the coolant crossover up front.

David

Come to think of it, I'm not using those ports either (on my Burb). The stock use was the temp sensor for the GP controller (which was bypassed before I bought the truck), so I just have them both blanked off.

Carry on...

 

[Barrman]

I don’t know the etiquette of making a build thread here. PM me how and I will make one. Here is one I wrote while doing that engine swap on the M715 zone:

The 396-6.2 swap project

The project begins. The 396 threw a rod back in March. Life, money and Scouts have kept me from getting it running again. We are a year round school, but we really don't have class in August except for next week. After Labor day, it is a new school year. I wanted to start getting thing in...

m715zone.com

Unfortunately, most of the pictures from that thread have died. I need to go back and redo it. I can do one here too.

Since this is a diesel 3/4 ton Suburban thread and you asked for my vehicle information. Here is my build thread on another site:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1007-cucv-suburban-clone-build-thread.74514/

 

[AgDieseler]

Let us begin.











This is the first disassembly of the revised cooler stack, and anything recently updated with the suspension.

It’s a lot of truck to take apart.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

Also, pretty good use of a Sunday.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

Pulling the engine with the torque converter is really a different kind of experience. It’s also a huge mess.





Very good day.

David

 

[AugustDiesel]

Very good day.

David

Especially knowing what’s coming.

It’s always a very satisfying feeling pulling an old part knowing that something better is coming.

 

[mrk5]

Why pull it with the converter?

 

[Babaganoosh]

Why pull it with the converter?

Locked up engine, I had to think about this one and almost asked why.

 

[Fastereddie]

Locked up engine, I had to think about this one and almost asked why.

I did the same…