Trying to say your videos are equal to your builds, both badass.
I appreciate those kind words. It's a lot of fun to add the storytelling part of the build, and I'm so glad you're enjoying it.
And about the build. There's a short block in the shop.
Mains are studded and torqued. The instructions for the main studs are pretty crappy, and take up a whole page to tell you...not much. Here's my slimmed down guidance. The 12mm studs bottom in the bore, while you need to gage the 10mm ones so there are enough threads showing past the nut. Torque per the book - 3, 2, 4, 1, 5, inners; 3, 2, 4, 1, 5 outers; go in 10 lb-ft stages (from 15-20) up to 90 on the inners, 80 on the 12mm outers, and 50 on the 10mm outers.
The piston rings all came together without a problem. The secondary rings were reworked by Total Seal to be made gapless, which is really just machining a notch on the standard ring and filling that with the very light replacement whose gap is offset 180*. The Summit tapered ring compressor made stuffing this whole thing super easy.
Anodized crowns are good for up to 1250F on the EGT, though I have never passed 1000F on the old setup.
6.2L timing gears swapped right over, and the crank and cam are now aligned to one another.
While the sun was out, I dug into the bumps to try and get one more inch of up travel. I smoked a 2.5" slugger to cut open the tops, cut and added 1" from a new set of King cans, and sleeved the assembly in 3"x.125 DOM. It's all pretty tight.
In the short term, this is all so I can get an additional inch of bump for a coming trip.
David
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