m00nBlaZe
Registered Member
So what's new with this build? I'm eager to see how this rig turns out 
CK5
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ORD Ultimate Adventure truck prep
- Thread starter Hogback Fabrication
- Start date
So what's new with this build? I'm eager to see how this rig turns out
We have been a little behind posting updates!
here's the cage getting primed before it gets shoved up in place:
Here's the hole in the back of the cab:
The tube will run straight out the back to the "B" pillar that's built into the bed. This lets us X brace the heck out of the B pillar and keep the seat against the back of the single cab. It makes it hard to put anything overhead in the cab section.
We gusseted the corners both ways with sheet gussets
Tubes are tucked up pretty nice so they're out of the way. The windshield crossbar has an offset bend in it to keep it out of forward vision too:
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The rear springs look crazy and wrong, but we're looking at 15" of vertical travel out of them! Stock length springs up front and u-shaped ones in the back, we'll have more travel than we can use you'll see 
Turns out the rear driveshaft plunges about 1/4".
We also marked mount locations for the traction bars while cycling and they're not going to bind at all, as usual. i didn't take a picture of the apparatus for cycling the leaves since it's a bit ugly but it involves a bar across the frame and a couple of chain hoists to the axle. It gets the job done but it really enforces how nice it is to cycle a linked up suspension compared to leaves.
The rear uses a tension shackle with about a 2" longer shackle and looks like it'll cycle between 13 and 15" of vertical depending on what we do with the shackle.
Here's the rear at full droop:
It's old news now but here's a shot of the new body mount we built to replace the one that was lost in the frame chop and splice job.
This is the front of the 203 where we drilled it to bolt to the stock tailhousing on the NV4500:
This is the transfer case mount bracket that helps build a higher clearance crossmember. We use a couple of plain urethane pucks in there for isolation.
Here's the speed sensor installed in the 205 tailhousing
Here's a start on the T-case x-member. Still a little work to do around the front driveshaft, drill mounting holes and fit the skidplate. Just when it seems so close...
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Turns out the rear driveshaft plunges about 1/4".
We also marked mount locations for the traction bars while cycling and they're not going to bind at all, as usual. i didn't take a picture of the apparatus for cycling the leaves since it's a bit ugly but it involves a bar across the frame and a couple of chain hoists to the axle. It gets the job done but it really enforces how nice it is to cycle a linked up suspension compared to leaves.
The rear uses a tension shackle with about a 2" longer shackle and looks like it'll cycle between 13 and 15" of vertical depending on what we do with the shackle.
Here's the rear at full droop:
It's old news now but here's a shot of the new body mount we built to replace the one that was lost in the frame chop and splice job.
This is the front of the 203 where we drilled it to bolt to the stock tailhousing on the NV4500:
This is the transfer case mount bracket that helps build a higher clearance crossmember. We use a couple of plain urethane pucks in there for isolation.
Here's the speed sensor installed in the 205 tailhousing
Here's a start on the T-case x-member. Still a little work to do around the front driveshaft, drill mounting holes and fit the skidplate. Just when it seems so close...
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I need to get some more pics today. There's a lot going on now that doesn't look like much, like finish welding the crossmembers and bed and another big fun project: figuring out what's wrong with the front axle.
It all started a couple days ago when the super awesome Dynatrac hubs showed up. (I never thought we'd ever pay that much for a set of hubs but after breaking 2-3 sets in my blazer, it seems OK) The driver's side bolted on just perfect but when we were done the pass. side didn't lock. So I start working out what's wrong and find that the inner gear has to be forced a little to go inside the outer gear. So something's wrong in the alignment of the spindle and wheel hub. Switching parts around between the 2 sides confirms that the hubs are just fine so we clean everything up and find that maybe a race isn't seated all the way. Check it out and that's not it. Try another wheel hub, that's not it. Try another spindle and BINGO, it all works. Just when it seems like it's all done, we tighten up the 3 screws on the cap of the Dynalock and the dial won't spin. So it seems the stub is sticking out to far. Why is the stub sticking out too far? Turns out the "C"s on the stock housing weren't seated onto the tube as far as usual and the inner axle is hitting the "C" and won't let it slide in the little bit it needs. So we clearance some on the shaft and on the housing and I think it's all good now. Nothing like a combo of parts that's supposed to bolt together and just barely won't.
So here's the photobucket album with a lot more pics in it that I'm posting here:
http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/...ign%20UAK2500/
Here's an unexciting pic of the fully functional Dynaloc on the end of the housing that just bolted together.
We decided that the huge unsupported length of frame under the engine was a bad idea so we have this convoluted item now.
Turns out that trying to keep the ride height low (6" of lift is low in this case) is pretty tough. The U-bolt nuts are going to try to hit the bottom of the frame and there's barely room for steering linkage. And to make sure the diff doesn't hit the crossmember it's a bit whacky too.
No telling what has to be sliced out to fit a 40" tire in there. Looks like the washer tank will go in the back since it's probably not staying on the core support.
It all started a couple days ago when the super awesome Dynatrac hubs showed up. (I never thought we'd ever pay that much for a set of hubs but after breaking 2-3 sets in my blazer, it seems OK) The driver's side bolted on just perfect but when we were done the pass. side didn't lock. So I start working out what's wrong and find that the inner gear has to be forced a little to go inside the outer gear. So something's wrong in the alignment of the spindle and wheel hub. Switching parts around between the 2 sides confirms that the hubs are just fine so we clean everything up and find that maybe a race isn't seated all the way. Check it out and that's not it. Try another wheel hub, that's not it. Try another spindle and BINGO, it all works. Just when it seems like it's all done, we tighten up the 3 screws on the cap of the Dynalock and the dial won't spin. So it seems the stub is sticking out to far. Why is the stub sticking out too far? Turns out the "C"s on the stock housing weren't seated onto the tube as far as usual and the inner axle is hitting the "C" and won't let it slide in the little bit it needs. So we clearance some on the shaft and on the housing and I think it's all good now. Nothing like a combo of parts that's supposed to bolt together and just barely won't.
So here's the photobucket album with a lot more pics in it that I'm posting here:
http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/...ign%20UAK2500/
Here's an unexciting pic of the fully functional Dynaloc on the end of the housing that just bolted together.
We decided that the huge unsupported length of frame under the engine was a bad idea so we have this convoluted item now.
Turns out that trying to keep the ride height low (6" of lift is low in this case) is pretty tough. The U-bolt nuts are going to try to hit the bottom of the frame and there's barely room for steering linkage. And to make sure the diff doesn't hit the crossmember it's a bit whacky too.
No telling what has to be sliced out to fit a 40" tire in there. Looks like the washer tank will go in the back since it's probably not staying on the core support.
Nice progress, looks like a lot of clearance issues to do with in the front.
Also, I had fits with my stub shafts but the opposite, they snap rings weren't holding the spindle seals up against the spindle, way too sloppy. So I hear you.
And those dynatrac hubs don't have any indicators?
Also, I had fits with my stub shafts but the opposite, they snap rings weren't holding the spindle seals up against the spindle, way too sloppy. So I hear you.
And those dynatrac hubs don't have any indicators?
i have had to grind the tip down on stock 30 spline stubs and spicer hubs before.
also when i installed my yukon shafts in my 60 front i had to lightly take off the corners to slide threw the knuckles and also the backside of the inner shaft at the yoke to clear the inner "c" section. were talking at most mabye a 32 of a inch in each spot max. it was more of a round over and blend than anything as the shafts come more square on the u-joint yoke section. thing to check also i had problem with was the big tin dust shield was limiting the inboard movement of the stub shaft to the spindle to hook up the c-clip. the aftermarket was off a 32 of a inch also so i just trimmed the extra on the dust shield were it presses on the stub shaft.
side ? i read here http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2931687&postcount=65 that stephen had a problem on long trips 1 time with 203 range box over heat ? was this mostly the exaust heat transfer or also nature of the box when we install it as a doubler setup ? i plan on dd use some with my setup . dont need a problem.
also when i installed my yukon shafts in my 60 front i had to lightly take off the corners to slide threw the knuckles and also the backside of the inner shaft at the yoke to clear the inner "c" section. were talking at most mabye a 32 of a inch in each spot max. it was more of a round over and blend than anything as the shafts come more square on the u-joint yoke section. thing to check also i had problem with was the big tin dust shield was limiting the inboard movement of the stub shaft to the spindle to hook up the c-clip. the aftermarket was off a 32 of a inch also so i just trimmed the extra on the dust shield were it presses on the stub shaft.
side ? i read here http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2931687&postcount=65 that stephen had a problem on long trips 1 time with 203 range box over heat ? was this mostly the exaust heat transfer or also nature of the box when we install it as a doubler setup ? i plan on dd use some with my setup . dont need a problem.
We haven't even started talking about custom spacers to keep the stub pulled out and the spindle seal pulled up tight.
The dynalocs have Xs and Os on them for indicators, they just washed out in the pic. Makes me think of little girl text messaging rather than locking hubs but it's good enough.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Starting to look like a real truck again.... 
I'm the only one we've ever heard of baking oil and keep in mind that it cooked on a UA trip in the desert across northern nevada with 400 mile road days in triple digit (at least constant 90's) heat on a vehicle with the 203 rotated sideways, exhaust pipes almost touching the cases in places, a full belly skid, boatsides and a 504 pushing 42's. That was also with dino blood, not any sort of synthetic and it was the only time I've had a problem. Every other vehicle we've run with our system has been flawless and there have been a crapload of mile altogether in all conditions. In fact John Hughbanks had our Doubler in his Bronco on that same '06 UA trip and it was fine, just in a more conventional vehicle. Our racer runs the same case system as Wally and was fine at Vegas to Reno but we did minimize the skidplate and run Amsoil 75-140.
If you think you're going to be holding a lot of heat in there, just run some synthetic oil. Otherwise, don't worry about it. If you really worry about it, put a temp sender in the PTO cover and see what it's really doing.
Great work Stephen, the truck is really turning out nicely!
Who's seal retainers are you using on the 205? Very nice and clean looking.
Who's seal retainers are you using on the 205? Very nice and clean looking.
thanks buddy for the 203 temp info. like i need another gauge in my dash with 11 now
see pic and 11th not in yet down by arb switches.
like i need another gauge in my dash with 11 now see pic and 11th not in yet down by arb switches.
Subscribed...this is one of the coolest build I've seen in a while, Always wanted to do this to my 97 but the wife wouldn't let me
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Dang wifes!
Always wanted to do this to my 97 but the wife wouldn't let me
]
Get your balls back out of her purse......
Subscribed...this is one of the coolest build I've seen in a while, Always wanted to do this to my 97 but the wife wouldn't let me
your 97 Alan, come on admit it, thats her truck right
I bought it new before I even met her. Then had two kids. Was building my blazer and had cj so I traded it in on my crew cab. I showed her this post she's going to let me get another. Or maybe I'll wait and buy this from Stephen when he gets bored with it!
m00nBlaZe
Registered Member
That's exactly what I did after talking with you, since I got all the axle parts from you guys. I made sure to have enough spacer to keep the seal tight, but small enough that it has room to move around a little. It has been working fine since.
Build is looking good by the way, I like it, and not much waiting to see the results either!
