CK5
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Overkillz Dune Truggy Build

You should check out airbagit.com

They have this sweet long travel kit for a 67-87 2wd front end. Would prob work great in the sand

Could you link me the kit your talking about? They have alot of stuff :haha:
 
Thank goodness all that driveline weld talk ended... 1000hp big block on 16" wide slicks? I would have given it a second thought. A sand truck with a fairly mild SBC? **** aint never gunna give up the ghost!
 
Thank goodness all that driveline weld talk ended... 1000hp big block on 16" wide slicks? I would have given it a second thought. A sand truck with a fairly mild SBC? **** aint never gunna give up the ghost!
completely stock tbi 350 with 120k on it and 4.10 gears with 33" max tires lol.

Adam, I ain't got no headers!
No biggie dave
:waytogo:
 
http://www.airbagit.com/lifted-upper-lower-control-arms-p/x2-car-gm6387c.htm


$1000 Seems like a lot at 1st, but when you price any tubular control arm the prices go up.
Also, NOBODY else makes a bolt in lift arms for a 2wd 67-87 front end.

Fabtech used to, but have been out of production for a while.

Really. After the springs, you over $200 per arm with new bushings, cross and cross bar.
 
Its pretty snazzy lookin. But idk if its really much wider is it? I want wide! :D id like to get some measurements and start drawing some 3d cad models and post em up. Im not quite sure how the angles are supposed to work though. Ive never understood why the top and bottom control arms cant be the same length from the frame. :dunno: wouldnt it just keep the tire completely vertical the whole time instead of all that goofy angle when the suspension is goin up and down?
 
I would put the biggest tires possible on.

definitely widest, but biggest? as in tallest?
I had some 33x14.5's on a 'burb, man I wish I still had those tires, they'd be great for my K5 build.
 
Hoping for some 33" or so paddles. Stock 350 with 4.10s should turn those withought problem. This motor was turning 35s with 3.73s just fine before we put the 383 in the truck.
 
the problem is the stock 2wd suspension is very hard to modify for travel.

you can get 12'' out of it with some work, and throw a couple shocks on the upper arm like they did in the old days, but that crossmember is a giant spoon. Then the control arm shafts dig into the ground, and slide back. On sand prob ok, and no dammage

Id try and run a 35 to get that cross memeber out of the sand on landings, which will be front heavy anyways.

or even run an aluminum pan from front bumper area to cross member to keep the sand from flying up in the engine bay

This coming form someone who has jumped lost of stock chevys
 
I have no problem making a new cross memeber.

And most likely making my own control arms. I just dont quite understand the differance in lenghts of the upper and lower control arms. Why cant they be the same lenght from the frame and run parralel to one another? :dunno:

To me it would elliminate that odd angle of the tire on suspension travel.

Add a coil over on the top control arm up to a hoop and be done :dunno:
 
I have no problem making a new cross memeber.

And most likely making my own control arms. I just dont quite understand the differance in lenghts of the upper and lower control arms. Why cant they be the same lenght from the frame and run parralel to one another?

Im not a IFS expert, but you have alot of learning to do my friend.

If you truley want to make a front suspension from scratch,

you need to understand a few things. The geomety on a IFS, is a science, and that also changes with intend use.

at min, the basics
Camber, Caster, Toe (+, and -'s of each)
Camber gain
SAI/KPI
Akerman Angle
toe out while turning
roll center

on a SLA there is a % of why the upper arm is the length compared to the lower

check out amazon for some books maybe?
 
Yah im not saying i think i can whip one up real quick. But I dont understand the point of the tire needing to be all off angle and different suspension travel points :dunno:
 
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