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Progress

Lift

I made hella progress for 2 days and then it kinda came to a halt over the holiday weekend. I didn't get the right spring plates to put the stock running gear back, brake line didn't fit, and I found a great deal on a 14 bolt and 3/4 ton front so... Might as well, huh Greg?

It'll take me longer but I'll only end up doing it once and buying stuff just to run around for a month or two before buying it again didn't make great sense. This will give me time to finish other projects and wire in the dash etc etc...

Shakle flip was easy. Wafer disks on the grinder sliced the heads right off the rivets and an air-hammer pops them out nice.

E-brake is super tight. How do I extend or cure that?
 
Since you've got the might as well syndrome, you might as well get the 3/4 ton axles. Do a rear disc conversion and then you might as well add a HAD driveline brake to fix your e-brake problem! Might as well.....:D
 
Use that expression sparingly fellas! :)

Some of the folks here need to DRIVE their trucks, so that the rest of us can live vicariously through them... :doah:


:usaflag:
 
Great thread. I like the "family wagon" concept and might be building something similar in the near future. Thanks for the ideas.
 
ChefBear said:
Die grinder and a big carbide burr made easy work of the dash panel to open up the small holes on the bottom. Roughed it up with some 0000 steel woll and aplied shooshoocan black.

I went mechanical for the oil and water and electric for the rest including speedo.

Am I going to want a voltmeter? I could just throw the clock in a cage pod somewheres...
Click to expand...

So what did you ever decide to do about that middle hole in your cluster?
 
Middle Hole

I was resisting Greg's idea of spinning a bowl :laugh: I need to stay focused and resist the AD/HD sidetrack syndrome, cause I know the next step would be a nice maple burl steering wheel and matching knobs for everything, but I did end up spinning some walnut and drilling out the center to hold the LED turn signals and recessing that in the stock location.

Next idea for center hole was to get a piece of aluminum plate and have local Tatoo artist do a burlesc drawing on it with "Duck Fat Sally", cause if I was a girl, I'd be a stripper, and if I was a stripper I'd have a really classy name like "Duck Fat Sally". So if I ever get a boat I'd name it that but I don't even want a boat and it's been the name for the Jimmy for a while now. It's the kind of 6th grade humor that still thrives in Culinary circles... but I have two daughters and that's not really what we are trying to instill in them...

Realistically I could easily spin a piece of burl or some ebony, or get some mahogany or teak, something that will waether well and then I have a buddy with a laser and he could do the CK5 logo or something on it. That'd be pretty cool. I'll save that for last.

Here some pics!

The walnut with LED inlay.

A pic of my tires, kinda look like a new washer and dryer...

and my Dana 60 looks like a big sectional coutch sitting in the basement I had to paint 3x

P1040149.JPG

P1040153.JPG

P1040108.JPG
 
I know what "White Walls" are but damn! I didn't know Whirlpool made them too :)
 
Hey I've been thinking about how to cage up my K5, and also have two daughters to strap into my truck.

I was looking at your pictures and noticed there is a joint in your long run accross the top Just above both kids. I took the liberty of editing one of you photo's to suggest a support. It's just my 2¢, but I dont trust joints like that and would add a brace, the shop that did the work could easily add it for very little money.

Again I think your project is advancing great, and I'm not trying to be critical but you should think about it. May add some symetry to you cage...

SNAG-0089.jpg
 
14 bolts are f'n heavy!

I agree we still have some bracing to do on the cage, as soon as I can pull it out. Witch means getting the axle swap done and figuring how to get it back out of the garage...

Went and picked up axles this morning. 14 bolts are f'n heavy! I should be getting tires and rims next day or 2.
 
With a butted-joint like that they most certainly SHOULD have added a smaller diameter "sleeve" inside the larger tube. It's a completely valid way to build, and if done properly with rosette welds (plug welds) and a good penetrating weld around the perimeter it should be stronger than anything else on the cage......it's effectively got twice the wall thickness of everything else!!


:usaflag:
 
sometimes learning hurts

I hit a major bump in the road when I went and picked up a 14 bolt and a 10 bolt. I was told it was out of a van and that it was swr etc etc. Paid the man and off I went, got the spring perches cut off and shoved it undernieth and saw I had a couple of problems. I got sold a dually 14 bolt 72" wms to wms.

I have located another set of running gear and will be able to go pick it up next week with my tape measure in hand.

Other than that the truck is right where you saw it in the shop with the lift on it waiting to finish the axel swap and order up the drive shafts.

October is our busiest month at the Hotel, so I'm swamped but... The good news is that the wife is serching for an Industrial shop for me lease.:laugh: so I think I'm gonna get a bigger clubhouse!
 
that sucks about the rear end. I still got the clutch pedals for you, the wife wont stop talking about the dinner from your hotel, that was some really good eating and an awesome experience. She wants to come up sometime soon to eat again.
 
Glad you guys enjoyed it, it was nice to meet you guys. Get a baby-sitter and I'll get you a room next time.
 
nice jimmy I remember when mine looked like that.....
Ahhh memories :crazy:

anyhow looks great and keep up the good work!
Really dig the seatbelt hoops behind the front seats still allows access to the rear w/ top on great idea :waytogo:
 
7/8 ton

with a 14 bolt and a 10 bolt, I have a 7/8 ton?
Axels are in with some stuff to finish-up but pretty much in.:laugh:

1) I have to order drive shafts.

2) run some brake lines. (you know how you can just give the front a yank and it comes through the frame so you can unbolt it? Ya, I didn't know that.)

3) Get the welder guy out here to weld up the spring perches on the 14 bolt.

4) rear shock mounts...

5) Clean driveway and get stuff post stuffed on Craigs.

Look at the tight space I have to work in with all my woodworking pushed outta the way, ish...:eek1:

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Questions

I gotta move the rear axel back an inch and half or so. If I do it with my DIY spring perches I gotta drill the ubolt plate right?

If I swap out the 350 205 for a 465 205 everything stays the same right, driveshafts, crossmembers etc????
 
ChefBear said:
I gotta move the rear axel back an inch and half or so. If I do it with my DIY spring perches I gotta drill the ubolt plate right?

If I swap out the 350 205 for a 465 205 everything stays the same right, driveshafts, crossmembers etc????
Click to expand...


DFS,

Yes you'll need to drill a new hole 1.5" away from the original hole on the U-Bolt plate. It will make sense when you get to that point.

As for the driveline combo, it seems odd that those two setups would be the same overall length (I always thought the 465 was a very compact transmission vs. the TH350, but having never done that swap you could be right. Someone else here can answer that one.... :thinking:


:usaflag:
 
I swapped a 350/205 for 465/205 and everything stays the same length. The 465 is actually shorter but the longer adapter makes up the difference. I even used the same crossmember......just take the double crossmember from the th350 and remove the top bar. No drilling required!
 
Here are some measurements I took of the SM465/NP205 combo in my 70 K5.

np205info.jpg


An SM465 is supposed to be 12" long, of course that doesn't include the bellhousing. Hope that helps. Let me know if you want me to get an overall measurement from the bellhousing mounting location on the engine to the t/c adapter.

I do believe I have heard the overall lenght is about the same of the TH350/NP205 and the SM465/NP205, the difference being made up with adapter length.
 
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