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Project Burt - he needs some lovin'

Think I toasted my motor. I think it's knocking on the bottom end, and the oil is slightly sparkly. Revved it up pretty high at a concert today to screw with diesels rolling coal, fast enough to eject my alt. belt. Sounded fine before I left, but when I got home the above symptoms showed. FANTASTIC. I guess I'll see how it is in the morning.
 
so yep, motor's still toast. i'm in the ordering mood, so i'm gonna(hopefully) be ordering up:

8" front springs
bumpers, sliders, and doors from kert
chromoly dana 60 axle shafts
drive slugs
crossover steering
warn m12000
350hp crate 355
body bushings and 1" body lift pucks


i really really miss my truck. this blows! can't wait to get the ol' boy on the road again.
 
does anyone here have kert's rock sliders? i'm looking to get some but i'm not sure if i want them rotated up or have them sit flat. a picture of them installed would be very helpful.

also, i am trying to decide on front springs and don't want to go the 52's route as i need to road drive this. opinions on superlift or skyjacker 8" springs? national tire and wheel has them for $300 for the pair which sounds like a good deal to me, i just don't want them to ride like a tank. i know they'll be harsh because they're 8" lift springs, but are there any preferred 8" fronts?

i'm in no way opposed to paying more for a better ride, but i don't want the wait time of custom fronts.
 
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I drive mine all over the place on 52's. Hell the first time I drove it was when I jumped in it in California, and drove it home to Nebraska.

Martin
 
Do you have lift springs in the front? I've heard the extra arch of the spring combined with the length makes the front axle get pushed around by the steering. I'm looking to get 8" in the front.

Also I ordered axle shafts, drive slugs, and crossover steering last night. Its going to be like Christmas!
 
I just have OEM 52" springs. I do drive it a lot though.

Martin
 
I got a box!

c6e4c992-cead-bb78.jpg
 
I was really hoping there was a monkey in the crate.

Joking aside, that's a nice looking motor. Should move that truck well.
 
Dyno sheet with a boot print!

c6e4c993-6b1f-e3a2.jpg


This thing should be mean. Bad news is my quadrajet won't fit on the intake, what's the 411 on the 670 truck avenger carbs? I've heard they eat gas harder than most carbs. What is ck5's aftermarket carb of choice?
 
They make adapter plates to run a Quadrajet on square bore intakes.

Martin
 
82355 said:
The only upgrade from a Q-Jet is EFI.

Martin
Click to expand...

^^^word

I've used the adaptor for square to q-jet. it works ok, but if i had to do it again, i'd find a spread bore many and put it on. just my opinion.
 
it's been a while since i posted, and since i last did, there have been many boxes found on my doorstep. also, i got my crate motor in, and it's getting broken in slowly. some of you may have an idea of how hard it is to keep a new motor under 3,000 rpm. it's even more difficult when my trans. won't go into lockup so it's constantly at 1500-2200rpms just to get up to speed.

the good news is i dropped off the 89 700r4 i bought off a friend, at a trans shop. getting it built and installed with a 2 year, 24,000 mile warranty with a hand built lockup convertor. it's also getting the planetaries out of a 4l70e, says the trans guy, along with a carbon band. i think there's some other details i missed about it, but should do the trick. the guy knows i'm going to be on 38's and doing a good bit of offroading and will still honor the warranty knowing this.

also, i got in a bunch of parts! they're on my phone so i'm going to edit in the pictures with tapatalk. if any of you guys have a smart phone and don't have tapatalk yet, holy crap it's the greatest thing ever/worst thing for my employer.

EDIT:

mofuggin' pictures!

8" skyjacker springs
c6e4c994-a0ac-6668.jpg


chromoly dana 60 shafts and drive slugs from ECGS
c6e4c994-a0b7-96ae.jpg


comp. poly motor mounts from diy4x
c6e4c994-a0d1-c4d3.jpg


sitting a motor in the truck and lining up motor mount bolts with a 50 year old hand me down hoist is always fun....not
c6e4c994-a0f2-8d4b.jpg


almost ready to run!
c6e4c994-a0fd-636b.jpg


radiator leak.....i bring two gallon jugs where i go - the leak got worse when my battery got out of the tray and arced on the radiator....created another pinhole
c6e4c994-a108-a28c.jpg


now....guess the car/motor!
c6e4c994-a140-fd6e.jpg
 
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i'm getting ready to do my 8" lift, and i figure i should ask, how much travel should i expect out of my 8" skyjacker springs once they're broken in? i'm not ordering shocks until the truck is all together and the tabs are welded in place and i can do a forklift flex test, but i want to get a ballpark idea if i should go with 10", 12", or 14" shocks. i bought the extended ford shock mounts so i can adjust it up/down.
 
the lift is underway, and i'm already foreseeing a problem with the front driveshaft hitting the tcase crossmember. anyone else had this issue, and what is the best solution? driveshaft spacer to push it forward, clearancing the crossmember, both, or new driveshaft?
 
Just noticed this thread! I gotta go back and read the whole thing but i like what i see so far! I have no idea on the car/motor!
 
xenomarine said:
i'm getting ready to do my 8" lift, and i figure i should ask, how much travel should i expect out of my 8" skyjacker springs once they're broken in? i'm not ordering shocks until the truck is all together and the tabs are welded in place and i can do a forklift flex test, but i want to get a ballpark idea if i should go with 10", 12", or 14" shocks. i bought the extended ford shock mounts so i can adjust it up/down.
Click to expand...

Let's just say they won't travel too much. Probably pretty comparable to the system you have now.

xenomarine said:
the lift is underway, and i'm already foreseeing a problem with the front driveshaft hitting the tcase crossmember. anyone else had this issue, and what is the best solution? driveshaft spacer to push it forward, clearancing the crossmember, both, or new driveshaft?
Click to expand...

Seems lots of folks have that problem. Most seem to get away with just clearance the cv on the drive shaft to make it droop further and then to shave the cross member or build a different one.

For some reason, this pic makes me smile. Reminds me of when i was a kid and would just do silly fun stuff cause I was bored...

c6e4c991-4e27-6c90.jpg


Also, how are you liking that blue print motor? Looks like it works good based on the dyno!
 
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