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Project Burt - he needs some lovin'

My crew cab will actually flex out fairly decently on 8" Skyjacker springs. It might be because of the wheelbase though.

Martin
 
xenomarine said:
it's been a while since i posted, and since i last did, there have been many boxes found on my doorstep. also, i got my crate motor in, and it's getting broken in slowly. some of you may have an idea of how hard it is to keep a new motor under 3,000 rpm. it's even more difficult when my trans. won't go into lockup so it's constantly at 1500-2200rpms just to get up to speed.

the good news is i dropped off the 89 700r4 i bought off a friend, at a trans shop. getting it built and installed with a 2 year, 24,000 mile warranty with a hand built lockup convertor. it's also getting the planetaries out of a 4l70e, says the trans guy, along with a carbon band. i think there's some other details i missed about it, but should do the trick. the guy knows i'm going to be on 38's and doing a good bit of offroading and will still honor the warranty knowing this.

also, i got in a bunch of parts! they're on my phone so i'm going to edit in the pictures with tapatalk. if any of you guys have a smart phone and don't have tapatalk yet, holy crap it's the greatest thing ever/worst thing for my employer.

EDIT:

mofuggin' pictures!

8" skyjacker springs
c6e4c994-a0ac-6668.jpg


chromoly dana 60 shafts and drive slugs from ECGS
c6e4c994-a0b7-96ae.jpg


comp. poly motor mounts from diy4x
c6e4c994-a0d1-c4d3.jpg


sitting a motor in the truck and lining up motor mount bolts with a 50 year old hand me down hoist is always fun....not
c6e4c994-a0f2-8d4b.jpg


almost ready to run!
c6e4c994-a0fd-636b.jpg


radiator leak.....i bring two gallon jugs where i go - the leak got worse when my battery got out of the tray and arced on the radiator....created another pinhole
c6e4c994-a108-a28c.jpg


now....guess the car/motor!
c6e4c994-a140-fd6e.jpg
Click to expand...


The motor in the last pic is a 53-54 corvette 235 with side draft carters? I can't remember the carb manufacture so far.

Also marty is right but it may just be frame flex.
 
Well it's done. Longest week of my life. Literally nothing on this truck went as it should. Rear springs came out 3 times, fronts came out twice, each axle was bolted up 3 times then dropped for different reasons. Every brake line needed to be reamed for bigger banjo bolts in an effort to get the thing out of my friends garage before I left for vacation. Wanted to run zero rates in the front to set the axle forward, but the springs hit the high steer. No dice. even with a CV 1350 shaft, the guys who pulled it out of the garage for me think it's binding. Worst part is I put in multiple 12 hour days in a week on top of work, culminating in a 15 hour rush. The ONLY thing that stooped me from driving it out myself was lack of the nut for the sector shaft on the 2Wd steering box. I had to even grind down my spring plate because the high steer rod was hitting. But, here's a couple pictures that my friends sent me.

c6e4c997-4edb-d611.jpg


c6e4c997-4eec-a0d1.jpg


What is everyone's preferred sye kit for a np241? Jb conversions?

And also has anyone had an issue with their axle shafts binding on the inner C's? I got the axle off a guy in town, ran the BOM from the axle tube and it came up as what I thought it did. 1988 dodge dually axle. When I went to turn the axle shaft with the drive slug in, it visibly bound and scraped some rust off even. Should I grind the edge that hits, or did I screw up?
 
It may clearance itself if it's not rubbing too bad. Are those the shafts that came in that axle?
 
andyblack said:
It may clearance itself if it's not rubbing too bad. Are those the shafts that came in that axle?
Click to expand...

No they're 4340 shafts, I don't remember what company they're from but I'll check my email for the invoice. They wouldn't budge even with some moderate pulling on a pry bar thatwas stuck between a couple lug studs.

Edit: they're ten factory axle shafts
 
Last edited:
I guess so. Forget about trying to grind them though. Chromo is really hard. I guess you'll have to grind the tubes if possible. :confused:
 
I guess I'll give ECGS a call then. What about bringing them to a machine shop and getting them thrown on a lathe? I know they would ream me though if you know what I mean.
 
:haha::haha:

Maybe not. I think I would look at grinding down the C's somehow though. I know guys have run into this problem and posted what they did on this site before, although it was usually the outer stub shaft yoke part that was hitting the C's, especially with the 35 spline outers.

Hmmm...
 
Interesting. Never heard of anyone else with the same problem, I'll have to do a search when i'm back at a computer, which is when i'm back from vacation :D
 
I blew my transfer case going down the highway today, should I put another 241 in the pig or should I gather the parts for a twin stick 205 swap? I have the twin sticked 205 sitting in my garage already.
 
Good looking K5 there man!

I say install the 205.

Keep up the good work.

BTW, what is the total size of lift you have?
 
Do you have an NP241 or an NP208? Did you ever go with a SYE? I'd stick with the NP208/NP241 unless you're going to build a doubler.

Martin
 
I have/had a 241. I bought a sye and it's sitting in my garage in a box. The front cv blew apart and took the case with it, the rear is intact. Park works but it can't be driven.
 
So yeah, I'd stick with the NP241. That is not the transfer case that came in it from the factory though. Unless you're building a doubler, NP205's kind of suck. Their Low range is high geared, they make a lot of noise, and they can be a pain to shift.

Martin
 
82355 said:
So yeah, I'd stick with the NP241. That is not the transfer case that came in it from the factory though. Unless you're building a doubler, NP205's kind of suck. Their Low range is high geared, they make a lot of noise, and they can be a pain to shift.

Martin
Click to expand...


i understand that the low gear is much better for the 241. that's the reason that i went with the 241 in the first place. but, i have a fairly built motor and haven't used 4lo yet. haven't needed it, and it's out of first gear at like 3 mph.

the transfer case got rebuilt and put in when i got my 700r4 built, i picked it up and had it put in when they did the tranny.

yeah, 205's are supposed to be loud, but i'm not that worried about noise. i drive on boggers, and have tube doors on in the summer. noise is what it's all about in these trucks.

the low range is higher, about 2/3 as deep as the 241. but i think i would like that.

this 205 shifts nice, it's quite smooth.

the main problem with swapping the 205 in is getting a working speedometer. i need to look at it, and see what i can do about that.

i definitely agree with and understand all your points about a 205, but most of them don't affect me. i have a daily driver tahoe, and this is a fun around town truck.
 
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