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Project Eat Soot

mosesburb said:
Neat idea. In the original design, the master fits through a large diameter hole (same diameter as the lip on the round rubber seal) in the firewall and the square dealio actually twists into a bracket behind the firewall and the big rubber disc seals the hole. Your setup should work fine, but you will have to use some sort of sealer on the mount to the firewall and the master where it twists into the mount. You will also cut off the big rubber seal. The electrical thing on the input is the neutral safety switch. If you are not running one, you can remove that also.
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Thanks for the post MB, I knew it was something similar to that, didn't know it went through a bracket on the inside of the firewall. Hopefully my set-up will work ok. I did end up getting rid of the neutral saftey switch much cleaner look.
 
Made a little more progress this weekend. I finished the clutch master cylinder it seems it should work out good guess we will find out soon. I ended up machining an extension rod out of aluminum and threaded both ends and used the original HB end. Cleaned up the firewall some more and worked on brake lines, man those are no fun and I have no skills what so ever bending them, good thing lines are cheap! I also started to install new fuel tank and get new lines for that. I just bought the cheap $200 tank kit, can't seem to get straps to work right though. Anyone run into this?

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Last shot is with new paint on firewall and cowl. I have been getting the factory color (Medium Blue) put into a spray can. I have never tried it before but I like the results so far.

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This pic seems so long ago! It shows some progress though I don't miss those days of cleaning!
 
A few simple passes with an end-mill will help get rid of that "DODGE RAM" lettering! :wink1:

-G
 
I have checked a few things off the list in the last couple weeks. My biggest challenge was the transmission crossmember. I ended up using a factory 1994 Dodge diesel pickup crossmember and modifyed it to work. I ended up welding plates to the frame for strength and then bolted it into place. Not too flashy but it should work out good. It is fully wired up and starts with the ignition key. I installed all new fuel lines from the tank to engine, new brake lines are all in. I am currently working on the rear suspension and putting the modifyed zero-rates in so I can get the drive shafts build next week. I am hoping to drive it at the end of next week.
I didn't take too many pics brake lines and fuel are pretty boring. I did however take a pics of the crossmember...

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Got the front clip put back on it's starting to come together...if it moves that will be another story....guess I will find out soon enough!

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MAN! that hydro Boost sure looks sweet. I'm sooo tired of not having brakes. How far (in inches) does it come off the firewall? I may have clearance issues with my shock hoop/engine cage. And don't worry it will all work fine.
 
sponsoredbydad said:
MAN! that hydro Boost sure looks sweet. I'm sooo tired of not having brakes. How far (in inches) does it come off the firewall? I may have clearance issues with my shock hoop/engine cage. And don't worry it will all work fine.
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I think you'd probably be fine SBD. when I switched to hydroboost the position of the MC changed much since the hydroboost is pretty close to the same size as the old vacuum booster.
 
Nice to see a Cummins K5 with some steady progress. Do you have any more details on the fuel tank/sending unit (stock/aftermarket/JY)? Also curious how the frame plating turned out. You mentioned earlier about a front xmember clearance issue. You may have already come up with a solution but you can just turn it around to get the clearance you need. Keep up the good work :waytogo:.

Also, what kind of clearance did you end up with between the radiator and mechanical fan?
 
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Thanks CUCV2! As far as the fuel tank I just went with a new factory replacement tank. Boxing the front fame section turned out good, basically I just made four plates and welded in front and rear of the engine crossmember nothing too fancy. I moved the front crossmember forward 2" and rebolted it in to clear the dampner. I have 3-1/4" of clearance between the pulley and the radiator. I removed the factory Dodge fan and am installing a electric fan only.
 
Ok guys I'm back...I've had very limited time the last month or so for progress. My 1yr old daughter had surgery Oct 10th and things are settling down now. Anyway I have made some more progress. I had a driveshaft built with a CV and had to add a flange out of the transfer case a have played hell with getting the degrees right with the pinion to keep everything happy at 70 mph. I am running a zero rate in the rear to moved the axle back 1.5" and then had the milled for the final angle I needed came out good after removing the axle 3 times...getting good at it now! I have been working on the intake and exhaust I have the down pipe done with a pyro, I had an AFE air filter which was too big and didn't fit, but hey it was on sale! Returned it and still need one. Pic shows how big it was I would have to relocate my battery.

I picked up some used hubs off Craigslist last weekend not premiums will keep looking for those. Installed them over the weekend. After everything said and done I have the drivetrain completed just need a few odds and ends things to be done...Air filter, gauges wired up, shocks, and an electric fan. Then we will see how she drives! Some pics did not come out so well sorry for that! Good to be back kinda!

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Looks like you're almost there man, well done! I hope your daughter is getting better too :waytogo:
 
Eat Soot said:
I have been working on the intake and exhaust I have the down pipe done with a pyro, I had an AFE air filter which was too big and didn't fit, but hey it was on sale! Returned it and still need one. Pic shows how big it was I would have to relocate my battery.
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Hey Soot,

You might look into using a stock dodge intake elbow or even an aftermarket replacement that curls the intake filter back next to the turbo and sits on top of the passenger wheel well. You might even be able to add some pipe as you have in the pictures to extend the elbow to sit as far in the corner by the hood hinge as you can to keep it as far away as possible from the ambient turbo heat.
 
Yeah good point badriver, I will look into that option I also picked up a 90 degree elbow was going to see what I can do to make work with the two to get away from the turbo heat. I will also wrap the down pipe to try and protect firewall. I also need to get ris of that nasty DODGE RAM on that intake. I have been gathering parts for that as well. I would like to see how it runs without an intercooler. I think Greg would appreciate it the most!
 
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