CK5
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I thought those were standard in first-gens.
(And bigblocks. And bundle-of-snakes headers hand-bent from unobtanium and lovingly TIG-welded by gnomes from the Black Forest.
)-- A
I agree with Martin. The NP241 would be my choice.
Okay, just had my steering box professionally rebuilt by a local company here in Denver (Raven Power Steering), dropped it off at 2:30PM and it was ready by 8:30AM the next morning, all for 165.00 which is pretty good considering a reman is around 120.00.
Got it installed today and the wondering issues I have are about 50% better, I have a Flaming River u-joint shaft end so no rag joint, I guess swap out the drag link ends next? Am I asking to much to have a first gen drive straight down the road?
Got it installed today and the wondering issues I have are about 50% better, I have a Flaming River u-joint shaft end so no rag joint, I guess swap out the drag link ends next? Am I asking to much to have a first gen drive straight down the road?
I had everything checked out at Midas
and they said everything was solid except for the steering box. When I checked it myself it seemed like there was a tiny bit of play in the drivers side ball joints.I guess i gave up others working on mine. Im one of those that knocks the ball joints out when I buy something and replace the axle shaft joints.
It wouldnt take much play there or in the tie rods ends or alignment to wander
It wouldnt take much play there or in the tie rods ends or alignment to wander
Yeah, I don't normally have others work on my junk either... but I hate diagnostic stuff, so I try to have someone else figure out what is wrong, especially if it's free, and then I fix it.
It's easy to check the drag link ends.... With the engine running have someone gently crank the wheel left-to-right-to-left while you inspect underneath.
If the joints are worn they will "rise up" as pressure is applied to them. Basically that's what happens as they take up the slack/dead spot from wear. The nice thing about drag link ends is that if you replace them one at a time you don't lose your current adjustment. Unscrew the bad one, and install the new one until the taper drops right back into the knuckle or pitman arm.
Tie rod ends are probably equally suspect. All that crap could be 50-years old at this point, and if you aren't the one that serviced it, there's just no way to know how old it really is.
-G
Also.... Check the spring bushings and the frame bushings for the front shackle.
Those could be beat to hell and dry-rotted too. Look for any sign that the center bolt is not in the center of the hole, like the bushing is just destroyed and letting the bolt slop-around.
-G
Those could be beat to hell and dry-rotted too. Look for any sign that the center bolt is not in the center of the hole, like the bushing is just destroyed and letting the bolt slop-around.
-G
I might have missed it, but how are the tires? Unevenly worn tires can definitely lead to some wandering.
Ball joints are also easy to test. (Can I say it? There's this Search function... 
)
Jack one side of the truck up so the tire is off the ground. Grab the tire at top and bottom (12 o'clock and 6). Push. If it moves, that's probably bad. Could be loose spindle nut, bearings, or ball joints, but you gotta tear down the outers (easy) to get to the ball joints anyway, so you can see what's going on as you dive in.
-- A
)Jack one side of the truck up so the tire is off the ground. Grab the tire at top and bottom (12 o'clock and 6). Push. If it moves, that's probably bad. Could be loose spindle nut, bearings, or ball joints, but you gotta tear down the outers (easy) to get to the ball joints anyway, so you can see what's going on as you dive in.
-- A
FYI up and down(vertical) ball joint movement is ok to an extent. Side to side or in and out of the tire no bueno.
