What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project Smoke Wagon

1984 GMC Jimmy 383 Stroker | SM466
Overview Gallery Discussion
6872xtc said:
My experience with the late model engines is that they need to be revved up to do anything. I have a 6.0, 6L90E truck at work, and it needs some throttle to make a noticeable change in speed. And it the fuel economy is nothing to talk about around town. Usually 11 to 12.
The other thing that I suggest that you check out before you pull the trigger is the manual transmission which you just installed. What I find is that hooking up to an old manual transmission takes some tricks to have everything work nice together. I don't have actual experience yet, but I have looked into putting my '95 NV4500 behind a 5.3.
Just food for thought.
Click to expand...

I’ve heard of it being done LS + SM465. Not sure what it takes. This isn’t something that’s going to happen over night. And I’m not really looking forward to and engine and trans swap anytime soon. That’s a twice at the most even for a year. Before I LS swap the Jimmy I’d have to have a 68-72 nova to throw the 383 in.
 
K5Devil said:
I’ve heard of it being done LS + SM465. Not sure what it takes. This isn’t something that’s going to happen over night. And I’m not really looking forward to and engine and trans swap anytime soon. That’s a twice at the most even for a year. Before I LS swap the Jimmy I’d have to have a 68-72 nova to throw the 383 in.
Click to expand...
@Z71paramedic Did a 5.3 with a 465 in his first gen blazer.
 
Having a 5.3 in my current Blazer and a 465 (carb'd 350) in my previous Blazer I can say without a doubt there would be no effing way I saddle an LS with a dump truck transmission. A 6.0 or 6.2 might be a little better, but you got to wind my 5.3 out to wring out every drop of power. The gear spacing from 2nd to 3rd would have my 5.3 falling on its face well out of its torque band. It's not ideal. It can be done with the right thickness flywheel, but it's less than ideal in my opinion.

If you do end up going LS I'd go ahead and grab an nv4500 for it at the same time. Besides being much smoother shifting, the gear splits are better and you get the bonus of OD.
 
Found an old Yakima roof rack I plan to up cycle into a roof rack for the hard top. Definitely want to be able to stand on the thing. Would like to see how some of you guys have mounted yours.
 
Well the Craigslist dude flaked on the rack. I went to the big box store for square tubing and it’s garbage. So I’ll have to wait until tomorrow when I can run to the local steel plant and grab some. Would like to make it L57xW49 1” square tubing and 1x1” supports making the total height around 3” (still need to clear garage door) Expanded metal center with cross bracing.
 
I can’t decide between 1/2” square tubing or 3/4”.

I want it light enough I can remove it alone but sturdy enough to hold 400lbs.

trying to decide the best design to distribute the weight across the top as well and keeping it as low profile as possible.

Thinking of making the rails all foldable with hinges so it can unfold into a flat rack for camping on. Also thinking of a designing a ladder system.

what do you guys think? 1/2” or 3/4”?
 
Won’t be able to wrap the top with the center plate so it will have to mount inside the rack perimeter because of the shape on the inside of the shell in those locations.
6A0DD0AB-784E-453D-820F-298CFAC01FFC.jpeg
 
I am not a fabricator by any means.

But I would think you would be fine with 1/2", and if it was me, I would try round tubing.

At least for the cross bars that would go under the load. They are stronger than square at the same wall thickness, keeping the weight down.

Maybe square around the outside and round in the middle, would be easier to weld up (no notching).

400 lb weight requirement would not mean 3/8" strap in my opinion... that would be super heavy.

Maybe use 3/16" sandwich plates and then use standoffs to the rack...
 
Justin V said:
I am not a fabricator by any means.

But I would think you would be fine with 1/2", and if it was me, I would try round tubing.

At least for the cross bars that would go under the load. They are stronger than square at the same wall thickness, keeping the weight down.

Maybe square around the outside and round in the middle, would be easier to weld up (no notching).

400 lb weight requirement would not mean 3/8" strap in my opinion... that would be super heavy.

Maybe use 3/16" sandwich plates and then use standoffs to the rack...
Click to expand...

yeah it’s hard to read I wrote 3/16” lol
 
Justin V said:
I am not a fabricator by any means.

But I would think you would be fine with 1/2", and if it was me, I would try round tubing.

At least for the cross bars that would go under the load. They are stronger than square at the same wall thickness, keeping the weight down.

Maybe square around the outside and round in the middle, would be easier to weld up (no notching).

400 lb weight requirement would not mean 3/8" strap in my opinion... that would be super heavy.

Maybe use 3/16" sandwich plates and then use standoffs to the rack...
Click to expand...

I want to basically weld the 3/16” plate to the bottom of the rack and bend and possibly gusset the ends. I want it to hug the roof. Basically riding the roof. Except for the 3/16” gaps between plays and even there I may put rubber or foam. Total height needs to be around 3”
 
I would put foam underneath for sure, would help with squeaks and keep the strap from wearing into the fiberglass.
 
Also, my opinion, keep atleast 1/2" gap between all rack bars and the roof, gives you just enough room to slide straps or bungee through.

Edit, nevermind, just saw the expanded metal comment
 
I guess I could make the straps and the rack removable from each other as well. Hmm.
 
Justin V said:
Also, my opinion, keep atleast 1/2" gap between all rack bars and the roof, gives you just enough room to slide straps or bungee through.

Edit, nevermind, just saw the expanded metal comment
Click to expand...
I will be making tabs for ratchet straps and such.
 
Using a weight calculator I am getting around 65lbs for the weight of the rack and straps. Using 3/16” plate and 1/2” square tubing.
 
Just to double make sure I measured the roof of the Jimmy to where the bottom of the foot of my garage door hangs. It’s 4” lol looking at a 3-4” roof rack doesn’t seem very practical. I definitely still need to park the rig in the garage. Worried it will be stolen if I don’t. Plus the weather here sucks. Hmm lol
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom