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Project Snow Bear K20!

Overview Gallery Discussion
imiceman44 said:
Are you using the radius arms?
If you are, you can have the attachment point on the frame narrower by an inch.
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No I'm building my own links. I can build an inch inset into them with no issue. I would like to NOT have the outriggers if I can help it.
 
For the moch up, Everything will get bolted in with grade 8 hardware. Once I am satisfied with the way it works I will weld it in. Mounting the brackets under the frame will not only look cleaner but will be stronger in the end with a plate welded to the inside. I'm seriously leaning towards short arms the more thought I put into it.
 
Vombrown said:
For the moch up, Everything will get bolted in with grade 8 hardware. Once I am satisfied with the way it works I will weld it in. Mounting the brackets under the frame will not only look cleaner but will be stronger in the end with a plate welded to the inside. I'm seriously leaning towards short arms the more thought I put into it.
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Resist the short arm thing.. you’ll have to drop them down to get any sort of decent angle, also as the travel at droop it will pull the axle and steering back towards the cab much more quickly. A long arm will ride better and have a much better recession curve than any short arm.
 
May want to remeasure your frame, I dont think the stock frames are that wide in the front. On my square body my frame is like 28, leaf perches are at 32 and out side the frame in the front and under it in the rear of the front leafs.
 
kgblazerfive said:
May want to remeasure your frame, I dont think the stock frames are that wide in the front. On my square body my frame is like 28, leaf perches are at 32 and out side the frame in the front and under it in the rear of the front leafs.
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Not quite sure where you are measuring but my 81 k-20 frame measures 34.4 inches (outside to outside) under the front body mounts. The same at the crossmember. I just went out and re-verified that.
 
sreidmx said:
Resist the short arm thing.. you’ll have to drop them down to get any sort of decent angle, also as the travel at droop it will pull the axle and steering back towards the cab much more quickly. A long arm will ride better and have a much better recession curve than any short arm.
Click to expand...

When I say short, I mean in front of the stock crossmember location. Maybe 6-8 inches shorter than you guys did on the 3 day 3 link truck. I'm not keeping the stock crossmember. I will be fabricating a new one. I was thinking of using the front hole to locate the rear mount for the lower arm. Just seems like a very convenient location. I'll add the plan is to tie the two mounts together at that location and then it becomes part of the crossmember/skid plate on the underside.
 
OK so its 34 for the spring plate mounts. Inside of the frame is 28 or so lets say 30. Still puts the diff right under the frame. You are going to have nothing for up travel in order to keep the diff out of the frame.
 
kgblazerfive said:
OK so its 34 for the spring plate mounts. Inside of the frame is 28 or so lets say 30. Still puts the diff right under the frame. You are going to have nothing for up travel in order to keep the diff out of the frame.
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Don't know where you're going here but the truck will be running about 5" of lift. So in order for the frame to contact the differential (which is 3.5" in the other direction) The suspension will need to travel over 20 inches to get there. I won't have anywhere near that amount of uptravel.
 
Where I am going is that the pumpkin on that axle is going hit the frame. What is the measurement from radius arm to radius arm? Across the axle.
What is the width of a stock frame under the engine ?
 
kgblazerfive said:
Where I am going is that the pumpkin on that axle is going hit the frame. What is the measurement from radius arm to radius arm? Across the axle.
What is the width of a stock frame under the engine ?
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Let me go ahead and say it again, just for you. This is not a rock crawler, this is not a desert racer. It's not a drift truck and it's not a Pro Mod. It will not have enough up travel to come anywhere close to contacting the differential. I literally just typed that in my last response.
 
It wont fit is my point, that is why I said measure it. My truck with stock springs in the front which are rear stock spring, which gives it five inches of lift over the factory set up. The differential hit my oil filter. That axle's diff is wider then mine it, is also a high pinion just like mine. The top of the diff, it would appear to me, and the measurements I have seen, will be hitting the frame at pretty much any amount of compression. You may want to go out and get some compression measurements off a stock set up and see how much they really move. You say you want to build a set up that ride like stock so see how much stock really moves.
 
kgblazerfive said:
It wont fit is my point, that is why I said measure it. My truck with stock springs in the front which are rear stock spring, which gives it five inches of lift over the factory set up. The differential hit my oil filter. That axle's diff is wider then mine it, is also a high pinion just like mine. The top of the diff, it would appear to me, and the measurements I have seen, will be hitting the frame at pretty much any amount of compression. You may want to go out and get some compression measurements off a stock set up and see how much they really move. You say you want to build a set up that ride like stock so see how much stock really moves.
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Ya know I typed a bunch of stuff then just deleted it all, the basis is this. You're wrong.....LOL I'll just leave it at that. I'm not going to explain to you how I know, it isn't worth my time to do so. So keep reading along like everyone else and you'll see how I get around it. Then I'll quote this post when it's done.

The next thing I will say is this. I'm not here to argue or prove anything to you. So one more of these and I'm going to ignore your posts here. I don't have time for you, if you can't contribute don't post. Thanks
 
blazinzuk said:
Once you get a rough idea of your link lengths then you can estimate travel and deflection.

I realize it's not a long travel rig. But you gotta build it so it's reliable at the limits.
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OK let's get back on track. I read up on these coil overs and they are rated for around 2 inches of deflection over the length front to back and side to side. This allows for pretty extreme misalignment in the stock truck. I'm guessing that would be plenty? LOL....I'm just as much in the dark here as everyone else. Tossing darts at a dart board. I guess until I get it in there there's just no way to know.
 
There was a guy at Blazer Bash in 2016 from SLC that had an orange '72 K5 with a ford dana 60 front. I think it was from a super duty. If I remember right he had coilovers. I am not sure who he is on here. @ashman might know more.
 
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