CK5
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Project Snow Bear K20!
- Thread starter Vombrown
- Start date
I do have a coil spring 60 in my Blazer from a 06ish super duty. Click on the link in my signature, there are some pretty good pictures of how it fits at full compression on the last page or two.
I don't think you would ever be able 4 link it, 3 link maybe. I just did radius arms with soft bushings on the housing end of the links and it seems to flex fine. Make sure you do a high steer arm (a few places will mod a stock arm) and keep the track bar as high, as long and as flat as possible for best drivability. When I originally built mine there weren't any high steer options available so my drag link and track bar angles were a little steep and it did some weird stuff when I pushed it hard out in the desert or in the dunes. Since I raised them it drives flawlessly. Also keep the radius arms as long as possible to keep the angles in check, I think mine are 42ish long. Definitely don't go any shorter unless you are planning to keep the travel under 8-10 inches. I am currently at just under 16" of travel.
We just went through this on @jkroberts truck, the low ride height thing really messes with the build, if you are not opposed to notching the frame you’ll buy quite a lot of uptravel. We had to place a 2x6 inch notch in the passenger frame rail to fit the highsteer drag link and trackbar. I do not have any pics on my phone if this compressed but the truck has 5 inches of lift and 6 inches uptravel and 18 Total.We detached the trackbar from our normal shock mounts because it would not fit in the normal location.
But this with a single 1:1 axle mounted shock would need a tall tower. If you kept the coilover shorter like 10-12 inch it might all fit under the brake master cylinder.
I would not be afraid to move your steering box fwd allowing more room for the trackbar and diff. As you can see we move the engine crossmember back for clearance, this has barely room for a finger at bump between the diff and oil pan.
But this with a single 1:1 axle mounted shock would need a tall tower. If you kept the coilover shorter like 10-12 inch it might all fit under the brake master cylinder.
I would not be afraid to move your steering box fwd allowing more room for the trackbar and diff. As you can see we move the engine crossmember back for clearance, this has barely room for a finger at bump between the diff and oil pan.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Just read your thread, Look almost exactly what I am wanting to do without so much travel. I'm thinking 8-9 inches is more than plenty for my application. I am trying to fit 37's with the lowest possible ride height. At least that I the goal. Plus I am using the 1 ton springs and rear end from the same 05 Superduty.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Had some warmer weather today so I had to get out and do some things around the farm. Fired up the dozer and plowed my driveway, brought some logs up to the house for fire wood and Yanked the bed off of the K-20. Tried to ratchet/breaker bar the first couple....got irritated and torched off the rest. Here's Pics! Was talking on the phone to Steve at Fortify Off-road half of the time. Dozer makes a hell of a overhead crane. Snatched the bed off like it wasn't even there. I dropped it on the ground and pushed it up to my bone pile on the hill, using it as a snow plow.
Yay for progress!
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Next warm day, I'll have the rear end swapped out for the new f-350 rear end, spring packs and hangers. The spring perches will need to be moved on the rear axle tube but that's the easy part. Then the brackets will be fitted to the frame with grade 8 hardware.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
OH I almost forgot, got the best accessory in today's mail.
CK5 sticker.....Built not Bought..Baby.
CK5 sticker.....Built not Bought..Baby.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
One small issue I am seeing is the spacing on the rear springs. The spring length is the same, 56". However the ford super duty springs position the rear axle 2" farther forward than the GM springs. I don't see this as a big deal but it may throw a cog in my choice of bed. Not sure what the wheel opening on the tool bed will support as far as forward movement. I "Could" swap them side to side and reverse them essentially pushing the axle back to the factory GM location. As I will need to relocated the spring perches inward no matter what I do. All that would mean is taking the spring hangers off and reversing them. Also not a big deal.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Hang on baby Jesus. The little torch setup is out. Don't make me get the big girl....
Brackets are coming off at record speed.
Brackets are coming off at record speed.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
No that location is reserved for a PTO winch. I'm going to try to make the saddle tanks work. If they don't work out then I'll go to a DOT approved slip tank in the bed.
Cant you just put the axle where it needs to be and then attach the hangers to that spot on the frame or is there stuff in the way? You could always use a zero rate 1" block to offset the axle forward or back for fine tuning later.
and/or drill an offset hole in your spring perch...
I remember you talking about that now, hopefully your saddle tanks will just work for you. Factory parts are nice to be able to use.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I'm just going to install the ford hangers in place of the Chevy stuff for now. If I need to relocate it back an inch, yeah I can put a zero rate back there to move it back.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Searching craigslist for a couple small things and found a set of Auto Fab Fiberglass fenders For the truck for 200 bucks. Yeah I think I'm going to go get those.
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What are those doing in montana? There's no desert racing there.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
No idea guy who has them says he was going to use them on his truck and decided to modify steel fenders instead. I have been thinking on how to get extra coverage and a larger wheel well opening. I guess these will do the trick. I'll use them with the stock inner fenders and hope they do ok in the freezing temps.
