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Pzuzu The Isuzu Build (RIP)

Set my gears up in the dana 44 at work finally. We had the pinion depth finder on loan from our machinist. Set the damn gears up with one adjustment of pinion depth and one adjustment of pinion preload. Hit my adjustments dead on both times and the factory carrier shims were dead on for .04 backlash.

Never set an axle up so damn fast. 1.5 hours...
 
Got a lot done in a short amount of time today. Work was a cluster ****. Wound up going in in the morning and leaving @ 3:30.

Got the rear strait section done and welded in with the frame capped with a 45* joint at the end. Gonna swipe a length of DOM I found out was hiding at work for my upper link mount.

This weekend I hope to complete the remainder of the front of the frame and possibly start mocking up brackets for the straight axle up front.

Its time to put the thing on the ground its gotta to the point where I can hardly pick it up by myself lol.

No pictures though forgot the camera...
 
Heres my progress from last friday. Rear leg done and boxed crossmember at the end.

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Then I got cross member happy. I got 3 six foot sticks of DOM or HREW, I honestly dont know what it is but I know it was for a roll cage from a previous car so the other mechanic that was here when they built it said hes pretty sure it was DOM, from work for free. It measures 1-5/8ths with an 1/8in wall.

As a side note how can I tell if its DOM or HREW?


Then I got drill happy. 12 1-5/8ths holes later my cordless drill was pissed at me and I had 3 nice crossmembers.

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I like having these crossmembers go through both sides of the frame. Really adds to the strength. I welded them inside and out.

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The middle crossmember I added in. The rear most one is lateral support for the panhard bar and the forward most one is the upper link crossmember. I just replaced the dinky exhaust pipe looking crap with real material.

Heres a paint whip up of my bracket layout. The middle crossmember will be for shock mounts and the other side of my coil buckets.

Red is plating for a coil pad, blue is shock mounts, green is upper link mount.

rearbracketsmockup.jpg



Once the back was done for all intensive purposes I moved onto the front. Im going to finish the frame tomorrow but wanted to get the front riser sections tackled. After some measuring I decided to deviate a little bit from stock and give the frame about 3in more rise over the front axle and carry that height all the way forward instead of dipping down again like the stocker.

This should be me more bumper clearance and shouldnt cause any other complication since my frame will basically be at the height the huge upper control arm mounts were occupying before.

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Measured for width and criss cross measured off the middle center rails for side to side reference to make sure they were evenly straight and not just both tilting to one side with the correct center width.




Also an over all project path update. Ive decided to find myself and motor and early trans to put in this frame. After talking with my co-worker we both agree it would be seriously counter productive to set this frame up for a 3.2 just to tear it down later on and put a 3.8 s/c'd motor in it.

So a little searching and I found some good prices. 100,000 mile 3.8L super charged buick motor for a ball park of $800. And thats just was was listed with prices. I need to call some places and see what a full dressed motor is going to cost and whether the stuff comes with ECM and harness or not.

I also got a price of $200 for a rear to make the frame a roller but I really need to call around and make sure Im getting a disc brake rear with a 63" WMS from a fender flare truck and not another 61" like I have.

Once I swap the body over Ill tare my pumpkin out of my rear and probably stick a chinese air locker in it. Got quote a while back for $550 for a locker and setup kit and compressor and Ive read good review from suzuki guys on pirate about them.
 
HREW will have a seam. You'll notice a slightly darker line, and if you look inside the tube, it frequently will have a little weld sticking through the middle. DOM will have no seam, as it was drawn rather than HREW which is flat stock which is bent around a form and welded.
 
HREW will have a seam. You'll notice a slightly darker line, and if you look inside the tube, it frequently will have a little weld sticking through the middle. DOM will have no seam, as it was drawn rather than HREW which is flat stock which is bent around a form and welded.


Its HREW then. It has that electric weld seam. I thought DOM was formed by running HREW threw a dye?
 
Nope. It's material that's Drawn Over a Mandrel.

Well from this manufacturing guide posted on pirate here : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=659544

The difference between HREW and DOM is that DOM goes through the same forming and welding process except cold rather than hot. THAN its drawn over and mandrel for measurement accuracy.

So that being said both HREW and DOM should have an interior weld seam. Unless you meant that HREW has an exterior raised weld.



EDIT: Wait no scratch that reading more. The mandrel removes the weld seam. So my **** is HREW.
 
shiit looks good man, but is anyone else impressed with the jawhorse! damn, I think I'm going to have to get one after seeing how well yours is holding up to having that frame on it.
 
shiit looks good man, but is anyone else impressed with the jawhorse! damn, I think I'm going to have to get one after seeing how well yours is holding up to having that frame on it.

Dude I said to the g/f (she bought it for me for christmas) that that thing is f'ing amazing. Obviously due to the length and weight its gotta a little twist and shake to it but hell its not going anyway!
 
An easy way I could tell HREW from a distance is the blue line burned when the elctrically weld the seam, I saw it in a few of your pics. :waytogo:
Well from this manufacturing guide posted on pirate here : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=659544

The difference between HREW and DOM is that DOM goes through the same forming and welding process except cold rather than hot. THAN its drawn over and mandrel for measurement accuracy.

So that being said both HREW and DOM should have an interior weld seam. Unless you meant that HREW has an exterior raised weld.



EDIT: Wait no scratch that reading more. The mandrel removes the weld seam. So my **** is HREW.
 
Finish the front frame leg today. I took the frame off the jawhorse and put it on jackstands. I also threw the axle under to clear my bench and motivate me a little bit.

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I went to walmart and bought 4 screw style jack stands and to harbor freight for 2 plumb bobs and a smaller level. Time to get it on the floor, level front to back and side to side and get the axle squared under the front.

Ive got a lot of measuring to do. Im at the point where I need to make radius arms, order bungs and heims for the panhard, get a steering box, get my johnny joints, get my axle wedges and bushings and some coils.

First things first is to make my front rad support crossmember and decide whether Im gonna finish assembling the axle or leave it as is so I can manage to pick it up myself to bring it to work to burn the brackets and wedges on it...
 
Got some work done on her. Monday I got the frame on screw jackstands and all leveled out. So I measured for my axle center line, going 3inches forward of stock. Dropped a plumb bob and got the axle square under the truck.

Today I figured theres only one thing I know for sure and that is that the coil buckets are going right over the axle center line.

So I tacked the buckets up and bolted the frame brackets to them and tacked the brackets on the frame.

I threw the cover and tie rod on to see where Im at with the panhard bar and decided to tack the panhard bar frame mount on about where I figure it should be, set as close to the coil bucket as possible.

Some pics of everything mocked up.


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I learned two things. Im really glad a decided to build the frame taller over the axle and I dont know wtf Im gonna do for a steering box and axle side panhard mount....


I have a prefabbed offset panhard style tower right now. I dont think I could fit it anywhere on the axle considering how big the wedge/clamp radius arm setup is. It seems like it would either have to go all the way or half way on the pumpkin spring perch.

That I can deal with. Its the steering box that gets me. The string in the picture is to give an idea of the panhard. Im under the impression I should run my panhard between the axle and the draglink.

Problem with that is I was planning on running an astro van box. Thats forward pitman arm, inside the frame. But in order to get the steering box in the correct general location I would have to mount it inside the frame in the same location as the coil bucket, panhard mount. :dunno:

Thoughts?
 
That's a doozy... :confused:


Well I guess my other option is a tall non offset axle side panhard bar mount with an inside the frame frame side panhard mount. That would put my panhard on axle center line and leave me miles to run either an outside the frame or inside the frame box with a rear facing pitman arm.

The dilemma there is getting the panhard bar over the pumpkin. It would either require a bend in the panhard or a very tall axle side mount.


As a crazy idea is there any reason you can run a pnhard behind axle centerline other than oil pan issues?
 
Spent the night fixing a mistake on my part... Drivers side frame rail was 3/8s of an inch lower than the passenger side on the straight over the axle piece...

Moral of the story is dont trust symmetry for height etc off your cuts. Im not sure how it happened but I cut it off and fixed it. After 3 hours....


I also got rid of my big block today and sold my old chevy column yesterday. After stocking the wedding savings a little bit Ive got a few extra bucks to pick up some parts. What to buy, what to buy?

Still need for the front:

98/99 durango steering box (inside frame, rear facing pitman arm)
Heims for panhard
Axle wedges for radius arms
Johnny joints for radius arms
Tube inserts
Coils
New brackets for panhard
 
Got my radius arms half made today at work. Torched a slot down my 2in 1/4 DOM and knocked the stock ford radius arm clamps into it. Welded em up real good with the miller 180 at work. 1 pass on the slotted part, 2 passes on the area where the tube is against the wall of the stock piece.

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Also ordered a crap load of stuff.

Rear suspension brackets
Shock tabs front and rear
Bushing kits for rear links and panhard
Heim and all the inserts for panhard and draglink.
Correct panhard frame mount

Should be enough to keep me busy for some time. Next order will be axle wedges, shock towers and $300 worth of trail-gear creeper joints. That orders gonna hurt... :doah:
 
Huh, didn't actually occur to me that you'd literally be using Ford radius arm C's. Cool. What vintage just out of curiosity?
 
Those are any first gen small body bronco clamps. They should be the same thing at the axle end for any ford with early style solid axle radius arms though.
 
Will be watching this. I have this idea in my head of doing this to my jeep.

I like the way your extended arms came out. A ton better than most that ive seen.
 
Will be watching this. I have this idea in my head of doing this to my jeep.

I like the way your extended arms came out. A ton better than most that ive seen.

Thanks. They arent even close to done. Im going to plate/skid the bottom of them with 2in c channel and plate the "gullies" in the factory clamp area to the tube.

Theyre gonna way a million gillion pounds but Ill never bend em!







**** I should jinx myself. :doah:






Update from today coming up!
 
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