Raggedy_Ann Build Process

[Raggedy_Ann]

Worked a bunch of hours over the weekend, but it looks like not much got done. I bought a laser level and then started checking everything and come to find out these trucks are just not flat, straight or level in any way. But i have found it very use full to find center of axle and center under the truck. Then marked the center of front axle on the floor and then measured 118in is what i want my new wheel base to be at, marked the floor and frame for new axle location in the rear.

Then to find pinion angle I then made a little 3d printed adaptor that you put in the pinion nut socket with a laser in it and just pointed it at the t case output nut and rotated the truss on the diff till it was flat and tacked it in place.

I then put on the lower link brackets. on ORD directions they want you to mount them as far to the outside of the tube as possible. Which in the newer style 14bolt factory disk brake is difficult because the calipers are oriented forward on the axle. Because of this the brackets are not as far out as i would like, but nothing i can do. Then the bracket need to be 1in above the center line of the axle tube, laser lever came in handy for getting a line straight across the axle.

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

I spoke the Steven the other day about my progress and just had a few questions to verify my working progress is in the right direction, and i received a bunch of use full information i wanted to share if someone finds this thread.

PRO TIPS!!!!

To find pinion angle following what i did with the laser pen is just about accurate. I was told the laser pointer needs to point at the middle of the CV double joint, not the back of the t case nut. I went home and measured from the flange to the middle of the joint on my driveshaft and i got 4.5in, cut a piece of wood that length and held that in front the pinion nut and rotated my axle up more up so the laser pointer was in the right spot i marked on the wood, I only rotated the axle 0.3 degrees up well with in the links ability to adjust.

Top link mounts on truss. They need to be as close as possible and favor forward vs back on the truss. Keep in mind hardware clearance between links.

To find lower link placement. As far out of the tube as possible and rotate so bolt hole is 1in above center of axle tube. Easy way to find this. 14 Bolt axle tube is 3.5in divide by 2 = 1 3/4 is center of tube plus 1 in is 2 3/4..... Now measure from floor to bottom of the axle tube lets just say 12in then add 2 3/4 = 14 3/4 and thats where the axle bracket lands on the axle

Bump stop location. As far out on axle as possible. If you watched 2025 UA adventure, the first episode a blue and white K30 on the sand dunes jumps his truck and bends the rear axle. He placed the bump stops very close to the axle truss, this is wrong. Imagine the axle is being controlled by the middle and the tire is going up, there is a lot of energy in that tire moving and that energy went in to the axle tube and bent it. Move bump stops as far out as possible so the bumps control and absorb the energy.

Fuel Cell. Im moving my fuel tank from under the truck to the bed, but i did not want to house or carry a 30gallon fuel tank. I tryed to find a fuel cell that takes a stock gm fuel pump incase i need to replace it at any auto parts store. Steven suggested and uses GOAT Built fuel cell in his K30. It is small at 18 gallons but fits what i need as in size and it accepts a stock gm fuel pump from an early 2000s gm truck.

 

[rderosier]

PRO TIPS!!!!

So you're a pro?

 

[Tnsejed]

Stephen's absolutely right about bumps. There's a bit more as well other than the moment force applied to the axle tube, which I'm sure he went into but I wrote it here for the readers.

Bump stops are always tricky trying to fit them. Any difference in bumpstop vs shock shaft location can make the shaft bottom before, or after, the bump when the axle is moving upwards not parallel to the chassis. When setting up your bumpstop height you need to take this into account. Inboarded bumps bring the suck and under articulated compression they can sometimes be negated out of the equation, outboarded is best as a compression situation when the axle is articulated allows you to error on the side of more bumpstop, not less.

With that said, sometimes you can't get the bumpstop outside of the shock, so you can go as close as possible, then articulate the axle and compress it to setup your bumpstop so it works correctly near the compressed zone of the shock. You can figure out this geometry and get it to where it works. I'm a fan of moving the bumpstop forward or rearward to get it even closer to centerline of the shock shaft, then set your height under articulated compression so it works with the least amount of tradeoffs.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I have my bump stops on the spring pad, is that far enough?

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

So you're a pro?

In training

I have my bump stops on the spring pad, is that far enough?

thats where mine were when i had leaf springs, jumped it a few times with no problems

 

[ktmoutfront]

hese trucks are just not flat, straight or level in any way

It is just your truck. Because it has been wheeled heavily. If you remember when we did the original cage, nothing was square then.

The Jimmy was within a 1/16" when I started caging it. I bet it is still pretty close today. 24 tie-ins to the frame helps that.

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

It is just your truck. Because it has been wheeled heavily. If you remember when we did the original cage, nothing was square then.

The Jimmy was within a 1/16" when I started caging it. I bet it is still pretty close today. 24 tie-ins to the frame helps that.

Hahah yes I remember nothing was straight then. The C hoop we made, I removed it and had it bent a little to the idea shape of the original topper. When I was then putting the C hoop back in I made it level to the B hoop. And when I checked to see if it was level side to side... It was not. Haha. So I'm gonna keep it so the cage has the same lean threw out the truck haha

 

[ktmoutfront]

That is an interesting use of a bender.

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

Thank You @rderosier for coming up and putting in 12hrs of work on my truck this past weekend. I really appreciate it a lot!

It is amazing how much work can get done with a 2nd set of hands that knows the process and how to use tools. We finished the upper links and installed the C hood tacked in to location. Then we made our own shock hoops thanks to Dan (not sure of screen name he is building / tore apart the white escalade) he swung by and gave us a hand with bending the tube.
It took quite a bit of time to get the shocks positioned properly, a specific degree tilted in and forward. then fit the tire and articulate. Oh now tire hits the shock move shock further inboard, now shock hits the frame, need to clearance the frame. But right now as it sits the shock clears the tire which is something i cant cut and trim.
I am learning how much body i will be cutting out to fit 16in travel shocks and 42in tires..... a lot!
Slowly making progress but getting there.

 

[Capt Ron]

thanks to Dan not sure of screen name

@85k5witha6.2

 

[85k5witha6.2]

That is an interesting use of a bender.

With the preexisting bends it was pretty much the only way to do it consistant side to side. They both needed the bends on the same side of the bender die. Luckily I have about 14 forklifts at the shop

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

One would think i have gotten more done sense my last update but, not much. i did get the rear of the truck fully boxed thanks to @85k5witha6.2 for cutting out frame plates with his plasma table. Shaved off a ton of hours of cutting and grinding. Added some dimples because why not. Fun note to dimple 3/16 plate you must max out a harbor freight 20T press, how do i know i maxed it out, i could hear pressure bypassing in the jack. Next i began to clearance the frame for shock travel. Cut out a lot more than what i was expecting. There are many ways to set up shocks in these trucks so your not cutting much, but this is the way i wanted to do this to get the most out of the suspension. I will go in next and make a frame inside a frame essentially. Hard to explain but i will put plate further inside the frame to essentially cap off the frame and completely weld that in both ends, then take thick plate and weld that to the back side of the box section connecting all the points side to side, top and bottom, then lastly completely plate in the frame to seal it up. check out my sticky note 2D cad drawing from the top looking down on the frame. If you have other ideas to strengthen the frame please let me know.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

Are you doing more cage work out back?

 

[rderosier]

If you have other ideas to strengthen the frame please let me know.

If you're tying the C pillars into the frame, the shock hoops together and also into the cage I think that more than supports the section of frame you took out.

 

[Tnsejed]

I want to see this, even with the cage. Linked is nice as the links terminate in front but this is for a roll with the force going from the side, to help keep the back of the truck intact.

 

[rderosier]

I want to see this, even with the cage. Linked is nice as the links terminate in front but this is for a roll with the force going from the side, to help keep the back of the truck intact.

View attachment 522449

This looks familiar

 

[Tnsejed]

This looks familiar

Yup, like what we talked about on yours. It's basically a standard frame notch but the worrisome force is side loading of the assembly. When the cage is terminating on the frame, or on frame outriggers, the frame section is a critical structural component. Sure he's not gonna back it into a wall on the track, but all it takes is one roll and the rearmost part of the cage is compromised.

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

Are you doing more cage work out back?

yes i will be add in quite a lot more

Yup, like what we talked about on yours. It's basically a standard frame notch but the worrisome force is side loading of the assembly. When the cage is terminating on the frame, or on frame outriggers, the frame section is a critical structural component. Sure he's not gonna back it into a wall on the track, but all it takes is one roll and the rearmost part of the cage is compromised.

that makes sense how you would build on the inside of the frame for strength. Rob sent me photos of the work he did, and i will do the same. Thank you for your input!

 

[Raggedy_Ann]

Got a lot of work done this past weekend thanks to @rderosier @mrk5 we worked like a machine just knocking out what would of taken me 2 weeks in one day. The ability to mark metal and hand it off to someone cutting and prepping it. Then another hand to hold things in place while welding. Again so much work got done, thank you guys

We cleaned up the notches cut in the frame and played that then reinforced the insides of the frame!

I'm not quite ready to begin cage work but I wanted to post up photos and ask you guys on ck5 please draw cage ideas and post them up. Any and all ideas are wanted.

The only restriction is there will be a 3rd seat in the middle between the shock towers. I only want a seat there to put my stuff and to have a seat if someone needs a ride. I don't expect it to be easy to get there but possible.

I would also like to tie shock hoops in to cage.