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Rdn2blazer 73’ K5 build thread (random pics)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Little bit of progress this past weekend. Getting the seat mounts going. Used 1 3/4 DOM tube for the seat mounts. Going to use 1 3/4 tube clamps to mount the seats. I will weld tabs to the clamps, the tabs will be tall enough to have two holes so I can adjust up or down a hole for height adjustment.

I will have the ability to adjust side to side by loosening the clamps and sliding the seat on the tubes. Up & Down and front to back by either rotating the tube clamps on the tubes or by moving the seat in a series of 1" spaced holes in the piece of angle bolted to the bottom of the seat. Have not drilled those yet, but you can see them bolted to the seat. Im looking into a quick pin type setup too so I can remove the seats easily if necessary.


What do you guys think of the extra side tube. I will tie in into the floor bar on the angled part with a short piece of tube where the bend is. In the pic the seat is back from where I will actually sit by a couple of inches. I like the look of the extra side tube plus the extra protection it will provide.

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That side tube is very esthetically pleasing. :thumb:

Nice work, keep it up. You keep giving me ideas for my cage when i'm ready to bend tube.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That side tube is very esthetically pleasing. :thumb:

Nice work, keep it up. You keep giving me ideas for my cage when i'm ready to bend tube.
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Thanks, I was back and forth on even bending it up. Im glad I did, I like it. I figure its no more to climb over it then the seat Bolstering. I totally guessed on the bend where it matches the seat radius. I also splayed it out 10 degrees so its not in a straight plane with the floor bar, its out farther, but the door will still close. Atleast I think it will. Im going to throw a door back on before I weld it in and bend the other side. My elbow just barly hits it while steering but it will have padding on it.
 
Im going to drop mounts to the driver and pasenger floor from the seat mount tubes. They will bolt into the factory seat mount holes. Will have mounts at probably just the front tube. The back tube will have a plate that uses the factory seat belt holes at the back of the transmission tunnel. there are 2, you can see them in the first pic. That will help support the reat tube from flex and the front floor mounts will support the front tube.
 
You think your seat bridge is going to flex noticeably? :eek1: This is mine and it doesn't move at all.

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Bolting to the floor in that location will just stiffen the floor there, not really do anything for the seat bridge.

looks awesome though, very impressive. :bow:

Rene
 
rdn2blazer said:
Thanks, I was back and forth on even bending it up. Im glad I did, I like it. I figure its no more to climb over it then the seat Bolstering. I totally guessed on the bend where it matches the seat radius. I also splayed it out 10 degrees so its not in a straight plane with the floor bar, its out farther, but the door will still close. Atleast I think it will. Im going to throw a door back on before I weld it in and bend the other side. My elbow just barly hits it while steering but it will have padding on it.
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That extra bar is unnecessary, but I agree that it adds a unique look.

The simplest solution might be to cut about 1" deeper on the upper notch so that the entire tube sits a little further back....then let that lower notch come down the curve of that seat mount a bit more (if there's material to allow it).

That way you don't have your arms hitting it, and don't have to worry about padding (which would make it interfere even more with your elbow).

I'm enjoying this thread... how are you getting your notches so tight? It looks like you've figured out a good system whatever it is. :waytogo:



:usaflag:
 
tRustyK5 said:
You think your seat bridge is going to flex noticeably? :eek1: This is mine and it doesn't move at all.

1004cage_7.jpg


Bolting to the floor in that location will just stiffen the floor there, not really do anything for the seat bridge.

looks awesome though, very impressive. :bow:

Rene
Click to expand...



Your right, It probably wont, so I will just put 2 in on the front tube :D.
 
Greg72 said:
That extra bar is unnecessary, but I agree that it adds a unique look.

The simplest solution might be to cut about 1" deeper on the upper notch so that the entire tube sits a little further back....then let that lower notch come down the curve of that seat mount a bit more (if there's material to allow it).

That way you don't have your arms hitting it, and don't have to worry about padding (which would make it interfere even more with your elbow).

I'm enjoying this thread... how are you getting your notches so tight? It looks like you've figured out a good system whatever it is. :waytogo:





:usaflag:
Click to expand...

Once I get the steering colume in and fully bolted up and my pedals are in and the seat is where I want it, I will see if I have to adjust it or not.

As far as the notches I just take my time so I get it right so I dont have to fill an 1/8 inch gap.
 
A couple of new pics of some progress. nothing great but SOME progress none the less. I tied the seat belt vertical legs that bolt to the center of the floor to the driver/passenger seat bridge mainly cause I was woried about any spring from welding the cage might have. I would hate to loose the hole position and not be able to tweak it back so the holes line up. So this will keep it solid.

Got my grap handles in. Got the driver seat tabs welded in, still need to do the passenger side.

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more of the center consol area. It fits nicely between the tubes by about a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

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Underneath the seat belt tubes bolted to the floor, the mounts under the truck.

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Looks great. You have to step on the console to gain back seat access?​
 
cybrfire said:
Looks great. You have to step on the console to gain back seat access?​
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Yea, that kinda sucks, and I dont like that fact but I do want to run a console. Actually if you grab the cage tube and pull your self thru like on monkey bars its kinda fun :D :haha:


for the back seat passengers it will be a pain but it will probably just be my kid for the most. With the soft top on its climb on the tire and crawl thru the cage tube.
 
any way to have the seat do the tip forward thing like the stockers did? Just a thought. I'm sure that'd be tough to do and retain structural integrity. Never really looked at it but seems difficult to do it conveniently and strong.
 
cybrfire said:
any way to have the seat do the tip forward thing like the stockers did? Just a thought. I'm sure that'd be tough to do and retain structural integrity. Never really looked at it but seems difficult to do it conveniently and strong.
Click to expand...




Actually, I was thinking of getting some heat treated 1/2 in rod and instead of using bolts for the seat mounts, I was thinking of rods that ran thru one tab to the other with a hindge pin on the console side and a "T" handle on the door side. So I could quickly pull the pins and pull the rods and pull the seat out very easy. The tabs line up very well. Do you think 1/2 cold rolled bar would be strong enough?? The tab holes are like .502 to .505 so I dont think it would feel loose or rattle at all.
 
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