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Rear Shock Mounting

I've been running without rear shocks for a couple of years now. I can't figure out what's going to work....I'm running 64" springs, and had a bed cage for the shocks, but I needed the bed back, also. I know I'm not going to get the 16" of travel I had before, but there's got to be something I can do to get maybe 14" or even 12" without completely reworking the rear suspension. I know I'll need to move the axle mounts lower, and angle the shock, I was hoping this thread would go a little further with some ideas. Just trying to revive it. Those "brown" mounts in the first post, anyone know where they came from? I'm assuming ORD does not make them, but that is the best option I've seen so far, plus I've got a 1" body lift, so I could even strech that a half inch further.

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You could easily gain some inches on the bottom moving them down and out as far as possible to protect them. Armor them well to hold up to hits. Look how crappy all the JK rear lower shock mounts are and those things are all over wheeling.
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can do like dodge trucks use to on the 70's - 80's and 45* to the center up top .

and also look in to cantilever like the BIG race boys do it mounts the shock 90* in line with the frame rail and still get the travel .
 
sweetk30 said:
can do like dodge trucks use to on the 70's - 80's and 45* to the center up top .

and also look in to cantilever like the BIG race boys do it mounts the shock 90* in line with the frame rail and still get the travel .
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The 45 degree thing works but the farther away from vertical in line with suspension travel the less effective they are.
 
I
rampage said:
Did you look into this? So many shock option valving/travel possibilities depending on how you design the cantilever.
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I've searched a bit years ago when I did mine and there's ideas out there to go off of. I'd just go 1:1 for starters to make it easy or make it adjustable to be able to easily play with it.

Beams on a K5

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/235de41092f638c3043a7ec998d51f17.jpg Yea so, I have a blazer, and in the process I put beams on it. In hindsight a bronco might have been quicker to build, but I'm not a ford guy. This is a 2 year buildup so far.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
www.chevyk5blazer.com
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Truckman4life said:
You could easily gain some inches on the bottom moving them down and out as far as possible to protect them. Armor them well to hold up to hits. Look how crappy all the JK rear lower shock mounts are and those things are all over wheeling.
View attachment 402651
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Poor design for a rig used in the rocks. For the desert or the mall it would be fine.
 
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skunked said:
Poor design for a rig used in the rocks. For the desert or the mall it would be fine.
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Why so? Obviously those are way heavy duty with bypass shocks. I'm thinking simple setup lots smaller pivot assembly to just use the engineering of that to change shock movement from up/down to forward/backward to mount a standard shock in a different spot with more room.
 
skunked said:
Poor design for a rig used in the rocks. For the desert or the mall it would be fine.
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Mine work fine in the rocks. I personally think they would be not so great in deep mud/ruts type stuff maybe.
 
Truckman4life said:
W

Why so? Obviously those are way heavy duty with bypass shocks. I'm thinking simple setup lots smaller pivot assembly to just use the engineering of that to change shock movement from up/down to forward/backward to mount a standard shock in a different spot with more room.
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Besides the fact they hang down and get hung up on rocks, the shocks will eventually make contact with rocks and fail.


Fastereddie said:
Mine work fine in the rocks. I personally think they would be not so great in deep mud/ruts type stuff maybe.
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I guess that depends on what kind of trails and rocks your wheeling. The trails we run here would hammer those coils and lower mounting points. Again, it just depends on the terrain you're using the vehicle for.....
 
skunked said:
Besides the fact they hang down and get hung up on rocks, the shocks will eventually make contact with rocks and fail.




I guess that depends on what kind of trails and rocks your wheeling. The trails we run here would hammer those coils and lower mounting points. Again, it just depends on the terrain you're using the vehicle for.....
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Pbbssht… I don’t need to back up :D
 
@skunked apparently I'm doing too much at once. I thought you were referring to the cantilever style. Doh! Yes I agree the low ones like the jeeps are a bad idea that's why mine are up high. But if you have to and your type of wheeling will work with it then I can see it being another compromise to going up.
 
I don't have any real tech to add, just updating. As I stated in the first post, I was thinking hard about going from the from to the top of the axle like @skunked but it seems like it might rub the tire when flex (although his don't look like it's a problem) or the shock would be really short (around 18" riding length). I also don't want to go through the floor for taller mounts so mounting outside the frame may not be for me.

I have an antique Missouri Offroad Outfitters crossmember that I didn't think would work but I might squeak by with it. The exhaust was built before I moved the axle back 3" so if I put the crossmember behind the axle (about 6" forward of the body mount in front of the gas tank) and run the shocks to brackets on the back side of the axle tube I think I will miss the exhaust, it'll be close. I'm going to test fit it this weekend.

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:angry1: Missouri offroad outfitters . . . i remember that clown . he almost got me until i started a c.c. dispute charge against him just be fore he closed up shop .
 
Yeah, I remember MOO having issues towards the end (like so many DOA vendors). I bought the crossmember from someone on CK5 years ago and actually forgot I had it until a few months ago.
 
Outboarding sure helps. We did that on @ashman blazer. He has a body lift so putting shocks up high wasn’t too much of a challenge.
 
72gmck5 said:
Outboarding sure helps. We did that on @ashman blazer. He has a body lift so putting shocks up high wasn’t too much of a challenge.
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I keep looking at his pics and video wondering how they don't rub. I have tire marks in my rear fenderwells so it seems like any shock that's that far out and not angled inward at the top could get touched by the tire.
 
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nvrenuf said:
I keep looking his wondering how they don't rub. I have tire marks in my rear fenderwells so it seems like any shock that's that far out and not angled inward at the top could get touched by the tire.
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I thought they were going to rub as well, but he flex it a ton to make sure they don’t. It’s pretty cool
 
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