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Rear traction bar discussion.

folkenheath said:
Also, double check your rear u-bolts and center pins Adam, I broke a center pin once and didn't know it, caused the rear to want to pull to one side under power since the axle wasn't straight anymore.
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They are literally brand new, and the ford springs have much bigger center pins than the 3/8" ones in the chevy springs. Also u bolts are tight.


Ill just deal with it I think. I doubt ill notice it in the sand, building another track bar would be a waist of time unless I can use them as trailing arms later.....
 
folkenheath said:
Also, double check your rear u-bolts and center pins Adam, I broke a center pin once and didn't know it, caused the rear to want to pull to one side under power since the axle wasn't straight anymore.
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Ive been on mine after every run. Doesn't bother me. I would like to see your again Wade.
 
In theory the torque through the rear driveshaft should make the truck lean to the right. Actually, from both driveshafts if in 4WD. So having the anti-wrap bar on the right should be the best place. I think mine leaned more before I had the bar.

If it's pulling both left and right, that sounds like something else. If it's easy to remove, you could pull it for troubleshooting, but I thought you said it was hard to get the bolts lines up. You could also just disconnect the front shackle and hope it doesn't hit the floor.
 
Blue85 said:
In theory the torque through the rear driveshaft should make the truck lean to the right. Actually, from both driveshafts if in 4WD. So having the anti-wrap bar on the right should be the best place. I think mine leaned more before I had the bar.

If it's pulling both left and right, that sounds like something else. If it's easy to remove, you could pull it for troubleshooting, but I thought you said it was hard to get the bolts lines up. You could also just disconnect the front shackle and hope it doesn't hit the floor.
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This thing puts soo much more torque to the ground now with gears, a motor that actually runs right, and the frame is no longer absorbing any of the force with the cage tied in. So I think that is the end result.


I added a plate to the bar, so it could come out now. But im afraid I will kill these springs quick without the bar hooked in.
 
I think he meant, unhook it, and try it, to see if it still does it, not unhook it forever.

Martin
 
82355 said:
I think he meant, unhook it, and try it, to see if it still does it, not unhook it forever.

Martin
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I know, if i mash the pedal with out it im scared I'll bend these springs. They are really thin and they are very very soft.
 
Deuling said:
They are literally brand new, and the ford springs have much bigger center pins than the 3/8" ones in the chevy springs. Also u bolts are tight.


Ill just deal with it I think. I doubt ill notice it in the sand, building another track bar would be a waist of time unless I can use them as trailing arms later.....
Click to expand...

That's when it happened, when they were brand new. I retorqued them once but it wasn't enough. I'm not saying thats it, I am just saying you might want to take a tape measure and double check the axle is in the same position on the spring on both sides. I drove it like that for a few years and didn't know it because I had tightened them again but it had already moved.

I wouldn't build another track bar if I were you. Just make sure everything is correct and run it.
 
Deuling said:
They are literally brand new, and the ford springs have much bigger center pins than the 3/8" ones in the chevy springs. Also u bolts are tight.
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Are they just tight or are they torqued to spec.... :deal:


:p:
 
I know this is a "Rear" traction bar discussion thread, but got requested to post up my brothers "front" traction bar setup he did on his 2.5 ton jimmy. Some of his pics and description is better and I don't feel like taking the time to copy and paste all of his pics/info over to here, so here is a link to the page of his build thread where he talks about it. Starts about 3/4 way down the page, and I think onto the next page he talks a little more about it....just for anyone who cares:

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-low-slung-old-chevy-on-rockwells-it-can-be-done.321365/page-6
 
Kay86K5 said:
I know this is a "Rear" traction bar discussion thread, but got requested to post up my brothers "front" traction bar setup he did on his 2.5 ton jimmy. Some of his pics and description is better and I don't feel like taking the time to copy and paste all of his pics/info over to here, so here is a link to the page of his build thread where he talks about it. Starts about 3/4 way down the page, and I think onto the next page he talks a little more about it....just for anyone who cares:

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-low-slung-old-chevy-on-rockwells-it-can-be-done.321365/page-6
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I am going to be copying this next year.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
I am going to be copying this next year.
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Yeah, I was thinking of doing the same thing on mine too. I have just a little bit of wrap on the front of mine with the stock 52's. It's not bad, but I bet what my brother did would pretty much eliminate mine and would make me feel much better about spinning the front tires on a ledge
 
Yeah same here. I only really notice it when one side is drooped way out, but it can get pretty bad under power.
 
So this still hasn't been throughly figured out. From what I'm gathering the shackle should point up, and the main bar needs to be as long as possible. What about the tube brackets? What angle should you shoot for to control antisquat and so on?
 
I know this doesn't factor in a shackle. But this was a quick Google check during brownie baking. Seems like the angle of the axle tube mounts directly correlates with the angle of the shackle vs the main bar.

Seems like as the angles would change it would move the upward push against the frame forward or backwards on the frame rails. Changing your antisquat. Any ideas?

trac4.jpg
 
There isn't a set answer to shackle up/down or the angle of the bar. That depends a lot on wheelbase and lift height, among other variables.

Traction bars are an easy fix for leaf springs to make them work better. You can try to model a leaf spring suspension with an extra link or two (traction bar/s), but it won't be an exact model.

If you're getting this deep into traction bar modeling, why not just link it?
 
I'm trying to do s10 trails in a suburban. So massively overhauling the frame isn't in the cards. The traction bar will just allow me to limp by until I decide on a final crawler. Plus I'm not even linked in the front yet.
 
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