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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad

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Just got back from Pacific Fab. Here's my pile of parts. The engine adapter plates have me confused, I don't see how they are going to work with my clamshell mounts, they are just flat plates. Am I supposed to unbolt my mounts off my small block and bolt them to these plates? I would assume that is the idea.
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plate to ls engine .

stock mounts off old engine or new like ord / diy4x sell bolt to them . then install the engine.

fyi some stock older mounts have a buldge on in the center that needs modified to fit the flat plate.
 
Yep. Mine had the buldges so I just added spacers. But yes, the mounts that currently bolt to the sbc block, get bolted to that plate.
 
Ok.

Another stupid question, what are the best lift points to pick this engine up?
 
Word of advice if you are going to use the factory clamshell mounts you need to put poly bushing in them. It will help with oil pan clearance on the crossmember.
 
So much for "bolt in" on this crossmember kit. The brake lines are completely in the way on both sides of the frame, to be able to install the way they describe in the directions. Looks like I'll be having to fabricate new ends of this PF crossmember to make it fit properly without effecting the brake lines.

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rjfguitar said:
So much for "bolt in" on this crossmember kit. The brake lines are completely in the way on both sides of the frame, to be able to install the way they describe in the directions. Looks like I'll be having to fabricate new ends of this PF crossmember to make it fit properly without effecting the brake lines.
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I had the exact same issue with my new crossmember. I had to cut holes in the drivers side for the lines to go through. Luckily the passenger side already had it done so I didn't have to modify both sides.
 
ashman said:
I had the exact same issue with my new crossmember. I had to cut holes in the drivers side for the lines to go through. Luckily the passenger side already had it done so I didn't have to modify both sides.
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I have both sides to deal with
 
Couple questions. What is this sensor and what appears to be is an open vaccuum line? Also where are you guys mounting your mass air flow sensor? Does this need to be right in front of the throttle body?
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Now for the fuel system. I see I have a send and return going to the fuel rails. Here is my fuel filter. I have plenty of stainless line for the supply line, and I have a short piece of rubber hose that I assume is supposed to be return. It almost looks like my fuel filter/fuel kit appears to be for a returnless engine and it looks like I don't have a returnless engine. Am I missing something?
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MAF goes about 1/2 way between the air filter and throttle body so it gets clean air flow through the intake pipe. Too close to either one and it can get turbulent air flow throwing the readings off.
 
sensor on intake is evap solenoid vent or perge cant recall off top of head .

if your not using the full evap system then if its removed on the computer programing it can be plugged off. I used some body panel 2part glue to cap mine off after I cut off the main body and had just the part for the intake to plug and bolt back down .

yes around 1/2 way in the air system for the mass sensor.

and if you have 2 line on the injector rail then the filter you have is not realy correct. as the vette filter is return less at engine end. it is regulated and returned at the filter.

the 2 line on the rail on the engine is feed / regulated then returned back down a second line.

can be swapped to a single line system easy via the rails swapped out .
 
Got it. Makes sense now. Looks like I'll be calling Pacific Fab to find out what the deal is on the fuel system. Also, they changed out the flex plate and put the correct one on to fit the converter from my 700R4, so I wouldn't need that spacer. The dished flexplate that they put on didn't look right to me when I picked up the engine, and sure enough. I pulled my converter off the tranny input shaft and put it up against the flex plate, the center pilot hub doesn't even come close to engaging the dished flex plate. I need a flat flex plate, or the spacer. :whistle:
 
You need the spacer no matter what flex plate you have. With a flat, the spacer goes between the crank and flex plate. With dished it the flex plate goes between the spacer and crank.

I really feel like Pacific fab didn't do as good of a job for you as they usually do.
 
y5mgisi said:
You need the spacer no matter what flex plate you have. With a flat, the spacer goes between the crank and flex plate. With dished it the flex plate goes between the spacer and crank.

I really feel like Pacific fab didn't do as good of a job for you as they usually do.
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We put no spacer on the plate on the buggy and had no issues. Th400 though...
 
Flat or dished plate? It's possible brett had an very early motor that still had the longer crank. On mine with th400 I had to bolt the spacer on after the flex plate since I had a dished flex plate.
 
y5mgisi said:
Flat or dished plate? It's possible brett had an very early motor that still had the longer crank. On mine with th400 I had to bolt the spacer on after the flex plate since I had a dished flex plate.
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First motor was an 01 6.0 stock with stock flexplate. 2nd was the same, maybe 02?

Both are dbw.
 
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