RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad

[rjfguitar]

Slammed her in real quick after work. Got one of my guys to stay late and help and we were done in 45 minutes.

Whats a cherry picker? Is that for picking cherries?

 

[rjfguitar]

Only issue we had was about a 1/4" gap between engine and trans. Ihad a couple of long 10m bolts and they sucked together just fine. Now to start on all the little stuff that makes it actually run.

 

[ashman]

Awesome ! did the plates do the trick?

 

[rjfguitar]

Awesome ! did the plates do the trick?

Absolutely. I might send the PF plates back to them and ask for a refund.

 

[Avery4jc]

My friend and I had to do the same thing to suck the engine and trans together. Used a couple long bolts to get it close enough to put the correct length bolts in the other holes then swapped those out once the normal length bolts were started.
Good to see it sitting in place!

 

[y5mgisi]

Sweet! Not bad! Should have it on the road in no time!

 

[POORBOYK5]

Is that a brand new harness or a reworked factory one? It looks like the PCM and fuse box reside on the pass side unlike the stock driver side locations in the 99+ trucks. Just curious as I've been reworking a lot of factory harnesses for the swaps I've been selling.

 

[rjfguitar]

It's a Pacific Fab new harness. I plan to put the ecm inside the cab under the dash.

 

[ashman]

Glad you are back on track bro! It won't be long now...

 

[rjfguitar]

Got a few things done this afternoon.

Headers are on, old fuel lines are off, bunch of wires are cleaned up and re-loomed. New batteries, battery cables, among other items.

This is where I'm going to mount my ECM. I don't have a better spot for it, I wanted to mount it inside under the dash, but I can't get the plugs and fuse box through the little hole in the firewall in pic 2. So, I need a bracket to hold the ECM and right there it will go, fuse box is down below the passenger side battery.

What I did was I ran the harness for the factory 1985 computer outside through the hole in the firewall. This will give me my battery hot and iginition hot, along with tach connection. Also the OBD2 plug passes through here in the smaller loom.

Got the power steering pump all hooked up. I just heated up the return line and bent it into the position I needed.

I installed the starter and have all the factory wiring hooked up at this point. I did bump the engine over just to make sure it cranks and the starter is not engaging the flexplate correctly. It would catch, crank over, then slip and grind. Do you have to shim these starters like the old ones? Are there multiple starters? Not one starter for all the LS small blocks?

 

[sweetk30]

in my 2wd build I got he gm bracket and cover for a decent price at the local dealer new . just a idea for ya.+

found it . just no part no's http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3326475&postcount=370

 

[rjfguitar]

I am having some trouble with these fuel line fittings. These appear to be the push on snap in style, but they are extremely tight and I'm a long way to getting the rib of the inner line all the way down past the plastic clip on the fitting.

I am going to run my brake booster off this vacuum barb, it was for the factory fuel regulator that I don't need anymore since I am going returnless.

 

[y5mgisi]

Here is how i mounted my computer.

Also, do you not have a fitting on the back of the intake for the brake booster?

 

[sweetk30]

6.0 tend not to have vac fitting as most were hydroboost brakes.

but can be easy to swap for a vac port barb as its a quick connect like the fuel lines .

 

[y5mgisi]

Gotcha. So there is a spot for it, but is likely plugged by a plug. Simple enough. Take out the plug and slide in the barb!

 

[rjfguitar]

My 6L was hydroboost and there is a goofy quick connect on the back. I will just use the barb in my picture, that is easiest and quickest.

More pressing issues are why the starter is not engaging correctly and the fuel line fittings.

 

[y5mgisi]

I'll be curious to see if the barb you are going to use will produce enough vacuum.

 

[y5mgisi]

On the fittings, you know that there is two 3/8" lines and one 5/6" line right? You arent possibly trying to put the 5/16 adapter on the 3/8" line are you?

 

[rjfguitar]

On the fittings, you know that there is two 3/8" lines and one 5/6" line right? You arent possibly trying to put the 5/16 adapter on the 3/8" line are you?

No I'm not.

I can't understand, if I have the original flexplate and starter to this engine, why I am having this starting problem. I didn't think LS engines needed shims or anything. Unless of course, a starter was swapped on me and I don't have the original starter. I need to get under there and look and see if the bendix is too close or too far away. I MUST not have the original starter.... It couldn't have been like this when it was pulled from the donor vehicle.

 

[y5mgisi]

You didn't just bolt on a flat flex plate with no spacer did you? Again, there HAS to be a spacer somewhere In the mix. Between crank and flex plate if flat, and after flex plate if dished.