I put a T in my heater core hose for mine
CK5
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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad
- Thread starter rjfguitar
- Start date
I think I am just going to neck down the heater hose bung on my radiator, that should work.
I installed the TW5121 coolant temp sensor in place of the factory one, I was going to use the port at the rear of the passenger side head but at the last minute decided to just replace the driver side one and snip off the plug on my harness and wire on my new 3 wire plug. I had black, blue, and grey. I used black and blue for the ECM and sent grey to the factory gauge. No luck, my coolant gauge is pegged past 260, my oil pressure is pegged past 60, and my volt gauge is less than 8. Looks like I have something wrong somewhere and I'm going to have to chase down a wiring issue.
I installed the TW5121 coolant temp sensor in place of the factory one, I was going to use the port at the rear of the passenger side head but at the last minute decided to just replace the driver side one and snip off the plug on my harness and wire on my new 3 wire plug. I had black, blue, and grey. I used black and blue for the ECM and sent grey to the factory gauge. No luck, my coolant gauge is pegged past 260, my oil pressure is pegged past 60, and my volt gauge is less than 8. Looks like I have something wrong somewhere and I'm going to have to chase down a wiring issue.
I plugged in my code reader to see what I had and I have 12 codes. 2 pertain to the O2 sensors not warming properly (no biggie, the exhaust is open) and two related to a knock sensor. What is interesting is I have 8 or so having to do with transmission malfunctions. Me thinks that a certain programmer may have forgot to set mine up for a manual transmission....
fyi 2 knock sensors . there under the intake.
most prefer to replace them on the outside of the block and not under the intake . and make a new pigtail harness with longer wires .
and yes sounds like bad program job if tranny codes.
check the scanner data for oil pressure . if your still running that info on the ls side . I think cold start on ls stuff can get over 60 psi .
most prefer to replace them on the outside of the block and not under the intake . and make a new pigtail harness with longer wires .
and yes sounds like bad program job if tranny codes.
check the scanner data for oil pressure . if your still running that info on the ls side . I think cold start on ls stuff can get over 60 psi .
They sell a radiator hose piece that you sleeve the upper radiator hose with and run the throttle body hose to. Doing this also creates a high point to burp to system.
I will look at my coolant temp sensor wiring when I get home. None of the wire colors matched on mine. [emoji53]
I can tell you that the gauge wire goes in port "3" on the connector, the other two I am uncertain of because our harness wires are different colors. You got a 50/50 shot now lmao [emoji6].
You can pull the wires out of the connector so you won't have to cut to re-wire. Just pop em out and swap.
You can pull the wires out of the connector so you won't have to cut to re-wire. Just pop em out and swap.
I will switch the wires around thanks.
I sent the computer and starter back to Pacific Fab and I was surprised on how fast I got everything back. Computer reprogrammed again and a different starter. This starter works fine, so that issue is solved. No codes that are trans related either.
I have been fiddling around with the blazer late at night after work here and there and have actually managed to get a bunch of stuff done.
-intake system built
-oil pressure sending unit installed by oil filter, tapped that unused port that most people use.
-Bowtie OD's TV cable made easy kit installed
-Lokar throttle cable installed
-PCM bracket
-electric fans wired up.
-steam line connected to radiator
Everything has gone pretty smooth actually, the TV cable kit went in easy and the throttle cable worked well too. I actually had to cut about 10" off of it to make it fit, but that cable worked great.
It may not be fancy, but I was able to modify the factory jack holder and the PCM fit into it like a glove.
My wiring harness was plenty long, so I just brought the PCM and fuse box back over to the driver side. I'm not seeing a problem with it. Still need to bolt down the fuse box.
With my electric fans, which are a Flex a Lite truck fan setup with dual fans, I just removed the control box that originally ran the fans and wired the hot of each fan to the hot leads coming out of my PF wiring harness. I do like that about PF's harness, the relays are already in their fuse box and the two wires for fan 1 and fan 2 are ready to be connected directly to the fans. I sent the grounds from the fans directly to the ground on the battery.
Problems:
Still havent figured out the coolant temp gauge. My coolant gauge bounces all over the place when I turn the key on and eventually pegs to the right and stays there. Also, my electric fans are not coming on. I let the engine warm up to where I'm pretty sure the fans would have come on. Yes, I did shut it down before it got hot. My problem is either:
1. I have the coolant sensor/wiring all screwed up and the computer is not reading engine coolant temp.
2. Pacific didn't turn the electric fans on in the computer
3. My fans are not working or wiring is wrong.
At this point, I feel I need to get a scanner. I need to see what the computer sees. Then I can read engine temp from the ECM and maybe even be able to see if the computer is trying to turn the fans on.
Anyone have a recommendation for a scanner that can read live info like I am talking about? Not just read codes, but see coolant temp, etc. I was thinking about buying an Edge Evolution. https://edgeproducts.com/products/gas-evolution-cs-85150/ If I had this, I could see all diagnostic stuff and have some performance tuning, and I think I would just say screw the factory coolant gauge and not even worry about it.
Opinions? Oh, and if the computer wasn't getting a correct reading from the coolant sensor would it be throwing a code?
Lastly, my K5 is STILL sitting on wood blocks. I just can't hardly seem to find a set of tires and wheels I like. I watch my local CL every day, hopefully something will pop up. Technically, I could test drive around my yard if I had tires/wheels.
I have been fiddling around with the blazer late at night after work here and there and have actually managed to get a bunch of stuff done.
-intake system built
-oil pressure sending unit installed by oil filter, tapped that unused port that most people use.
-Bowtie OD's TV cable made easy kit installed
-Lokar throttle cable installed
-PCM bracket
-electric fans wired up.
-steam line connected to radiator
Everything has gone pretty smooth actually, the TV cable kit went in easy and the throttle cable worked well too. I actually had to cut about 10" off of it to make it fit, but that cable worked great.
It may not be fancy, but I was able to modify the factory jack holder and the PCM fit into it like a glove.
My wiring harness was plenty long, so I just brought the PCM and fuse box back over to the driver side. I'm not seeing a problem with it. Still need to bolt down the fuse box.With my electric fans, which are a Flex a Lite truck fan setup with dual fans, I just removed the control box that originally ran the fans and wired the hot of each fan to the hot leads coming out of my PF wiring harness. I do like that about PF's harness, the relays are already in their fuse box and the two wires for fan 1 and fan 2 are ready to be connected directly to the fans. I sent the grounds from the fans directly to the ground on the battery.
Problems:
Still havent figured out the coolant temp gauge. My coolant gauge bounces all over the place when I turn the key on and eventually pegs to the right and stays there. Also, my electric fans are not coming on. I let the engine warm up to where I'm pretty sure the fans would have come on. Yes, I did shut it down before it got hot. My problem is either:
1. I have the coolant sensor/wiring all screwed up and the computer is not reading engine coolant temp.
2. Pacific didn't turn the electric fans on in the computer
3. My fans are not working or wiring is wrong.
At this point, I feel I need to get a scanner. I need to see what the computer sees. Then I can read engine temp from the ECM and maybe even be able to see if the computer is trying to turn the fans on.
Anyone have a recommendation for a scanner that can read live info like I am talking about? Not just read codes, but see coolant temp, etc. I was thinking about buying an Edge Evolution. https://edgeproducts.com/products/gas-evolution-cs-85150/ If I had this, I could see all diagnostic stuff and have some performance tuning, and I think I would just say screw the factory coolant gauge and not even worry about it.
Opinions? Oh, and if the computer wasn't getting a correct reading from the coolant sensor would it be throwing a code?
Lastly, my K5 is STILL sitting on wood blocks. I just can't hardly seem to find a set of tires and wheels I like. I watch my local CL every day, hopefully something will pop up. Technically, I could test drive around my yard if I had tires/wheels.
Almost forgot, my volt gauge is not reading either. Where does it pick up voltage? I do not have my original altenator power and exciter wires hooked up anymore, but I did connect them to the battery momentarily to see if that was it, but the gauge didn't budge off 8 volts. I have 14.5 volts at the batteries. Oil pressure is the only gauge that is working properly at the moment, even my gas gauge appears to have quit working.
I'm glad to hear some progress is being made. Every little step gets you that much closer!
2. possible I guess.
3. Did PF wire in your relays from the PCM too? As I recall the PCM supplies the ground side of the relay circuit. I almost wired mine wrong, so maybe that is possible? It's easy enough to test the fans themselves by just touching the hot to the battery.
The apps page has some recommendations for bluetooth adapters or you could go with the one I bought in my thread. Mine works ok, but isn't reading all the codes I think.
Have you tried just disconnecting the wire from the sensor? See if the bouncing is coming from the sensor itself? I *think* that if you touch the sensor wire to ground it should peg the meter. I'd try a few things like that to see where the issue is coming from.
1. didn't PF do that part of the harness? Would really be a bummer to find out they screwed up the harness.
2. possible I guess.
3. Did PF wire in your relays from the PCM too? As I recall the PCM supplies the ground side of the relay circuit. I almost wired mine wrong, so maybe that is possible? It's easy enough to test the fans themselves by just touching the hot to the battery.
I'm just using the torque app on my phone with a bluetooth OBD2 adapter. Its a cheap option and it does have real time info like temp so at least you would know what the PCM knows.
The apps page has some recommendations for bluetooth adapters or you could go with the one I bought in my thread. Mine works ok, but isn't reading all the codes I think.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I also recommend the Bluetooth scanner. I use the elm327 which goes for about $15 shipped on eBay. Shows all sorts of info. And reads and clears codes.
I use the Torque app on my Camaro and Tahoe. I bought 2 Bluetooth adapters to keep in each so I always have one with me. Its a very good app and I hardly use it to its potential as there's so many features and customization available within it. The only thing is that you can't modify ECM parameters. Its more of a monitoring and troubleshooting kind of thing.
I'm glad to hear some progress is being made. Every little step gets you that much closer!
Have you tried just disconnecting the wire from the sensor? See if the bouncing is coming from the sensor itself? I *think* that if you touch the sensor wire to ground it should peg the meter. I'd try a few things like that to see where the issue is coming from.
1. didn't PF do that part of the harness? Would really be a bummer to find out they screwed up the harness.
2. possible I guess.
3. Did PF wire in your relays from the PCM too? As I recall the PCM supplies the ground side of the relay circuit. I almost wired mine wrong, so maybe that is possible? It's easy enough to test the fans themselves by just touching the hot to the battery.
I'm just using the torque app on my phone with a bluetooth OBD2 adapter. Its a cheap option and it does have real time info like temp so at least you would know what the PCM knows.
The apps page has some recommendations for bluetooth adapters or you could go with the one I bought in my thread. Mine works ok, but isn't reading all the codes I think.
When the wire to the gauge is not connected, the gauge pegs to the right and stays there.
Electric fan issue solved....there was no issue. I took a mechanical coolant gauge and dropped it into the radiator. The problem is I was too chicken to let it get too hot, but shure enough, I saw 210* on my mech gauge and one fan came on. I guess it's set up that the 2nd fan doesn't come on until needed, I tested both fans so I know the computer is only powering up one fan. I like that, less amperage draw.
I will look into the torque app, it's either that or something like the Edge Evolution CS.
I took the first test drive today. I caved in and threw a set of old junker tires and wheels on so that I could test drive it, but mainly I just really wanted to clean up the shop and sweep up!
Holy $hit, this 6L has about twice the power of my old POS 406. I always though that thing lacked for what it should have had power wise. INSTANT throttle response, so much power so quick off idle.
Things still to do.
-connect exhaust, while it was fun today having open headers... it's time to get the flowmasters plumbed back in.
-TV cable adjustment. My throttle valve is not right. Lazy shifts, there is a longer spring that needs to be installed in the throttle valve that came with my kit, I haven't done it because I don't want to make an ATF mess. I plan to run it to my trans guy and let him get the TV all set right.
-Tires and Wheels! God it looks ugly with stock junkers. I'm on the prowl. I have two sets in mind, problem is both guys want too much money for them at the moment.
1.
2.
Holy $hit, this 6L has about twice the power of my old POS 406. I always though that thing lacked for what it should have had power wise. INSTANT throttle response, so much power so quick off idle.
Things still to do.
-connect exhaust, while it was fun today having open headers... it's time to get the flowmasters plumbed back in.
-TV cable adjustment. My throttle valve is not right. Lazy shifts, there is a longer spring that needs to be installed in the throttle valve that came with my kit, I haven't done it because I don't want to make an ATF mess. I plan to run it to my trans guy and let him get the TV all set right.
-Tires and Wheels! God it looks ugly with stock junkers. I'm on the prowl. I have two sets in mind, problem is both guys want too much money for them at the moment.
1.
2.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Glad you are happy with the power! And I know personal preferences and all that, but I sure wish just once I could see this truck with some wheels and tires on it that I think look good!
Just run some decent tires on the stock wheels!
Martin
Martin
What? Stock rally wheels or something? Some military humvee rims?
Haha... good one.
Okay, now all kidding aside I need some serious opinions.
I want something short and wide to give it that right stance. I'm going to have to just keep waiting and watching CL, or wait out the guy in pic 1 with the 16.5x14 Mountain Crushers on fresh 33x15.50 SX's.
I'm out on that conversation. I hate stretched tires and 99% of aftermarket wheels.
Martin
Martin
