Rocco's 77 K5 Blazer - Frame Off 6.2/6L80 Build

[RoccoK5]

On a different topic. I love the black seats. I acquired a set of Mazda sport seats but I like the looks of the Town&Country seats more. What were the issues mounting them/installing them. How did you get the correct height?

Also, regarding my back seat, I was looking at putting in the 3rd row seats from the same Town&Country or even a 2015'ish Tahoe or similar Chevy vehicle. Any consideration for changing your back seat to something similar to your front seats?

I am also considering installing 2 captains seats in place of my back seat. The Town&Country has 2nd row captains seats that look great.

I had custom brackets made for the front seats, and built the bracket for the rear Tahoe seats. I ended up selling everything and bought some second row buckets from a Yukon that I'll mount up front. Planning on going with the third row from the same vehicle for the rear seat.

 

[RoccoK5]

My frame finally made it's way back from the powdercoater's this past weekend. It came out great!

I installed the ORD front upper shackle hangers and engine crossmember right off the hop:

Also bolted up the DIY4X shackle flips that I bought eons ago:

The custom leaf springs showed up, so I went ahead and bolted up the fronts.

Plan is to get the front axle bolted up and then get to work on the rear, then I'll have a roller again! Here's what I am thinking:

1. Re-gear and rebuild 14 bolt
2. Mount leaf springs, axles
3. Run brake lines
4. Mock Drivetrain
5. Fuel System
6. ???
7. Test Drive

 

[RoccoK5]

It's been awhile since my last update, and I've managed to get a few things done since then.

I got the front axle out of the garage and mounted up:

Tore apart the 14 bolt and got it cleaned up and ready for rebuild:

Bench full of parts: 5.13s, ARB, new bearings, seals, etc. Disc brake conversion not pictured.

Setting up the 14 bolt is so much nicer than the 10 bolt. Love that the pinion assembly bolts on. Here it is all setup with the pinion, new bearings, and crush sleeve eliminator.

ARB dropped in and ready to setup the gears:

 

[RoccoK5]

Here's what my pattern looks like right now. This is with a backlash of 0.007" (ring gear is etched w/ 0.008") and NO pinion depth shims. I'm still so bad at reading these. What do you think?

 

[6872xtc]

I am not a gear expert.

I would put a small shim under the pinion support. Two or three thousandths. Then try the backlash at the .008 as stamped. Just to see what happens.

I believe that you have an acceptable pattern, but I may be wrong. And I would play with it to give myself something to compare to for my peace of mind.

 

[Fastereddie]

I’d send it. But why does the yoke look like it’s sticking out really far in that first pic?

 

[RoccoK5]

I am not a gear expert.

I would put a small shim under the pinion support. Two or three thousandths. Then try the backlash at the .008 as stamped. Just to see what happens.

I believe that you have an acceptable pattern, but I may be wrong. And I would play with it to give myself something to compare to for my peace of mind.

Thanks for the suggestion! The thinnest shim I have at the moment is 0.010", and the gear pattern looked a lot worse with that one and similar backlash. I'll have to see if I can get some thinner shims.

@ktmoutfront , what do you think?

 

[6872xtc]

Thanks for the suggestion! The thinnest shim I have at the moment is 0.010", and the gear pattern looked a lot worse with that one and similar backlash. I'll have to see if I can get some thinner shims.

@ktmoutfront , what do you think?

Well that may make the decision then. I thought that it looked pretty close. And I haven't done a 14FF, so I don't know what shims are available.

 

[RoccoK5]

I’d send it. But why does the yoke look like it’s sticking out really far in that first pic?

I'm leaning toward running it too...

Good eye on the yoke...it's a forged u-bolt style yoke from ORD without a dust seal. It caught me off guard at first, but it has a longer shank than the factory one with the dust shield:

 

[ktmoutfront]

Run it.

 

[ktmoutfront]

Just remember to break them in correctly. Yes it does matter.

 

[imiceman44]

Just remember to break them in correctly. Yes it does matter.

Since you mentioned it, what is the right break in procedure?

 

[ktmoutfront]

No hard acceleration for 500 miles.
Drive it for 15 miles, stop and let the diff cool completely. Do this 3 more times.
Change fluid at 500 mile mark.

Then.....

 

[RoccoK5]

Awesome, thanks! Will be sure to break them in properly. Any specific oil I should run during break-in? I'll have to look up G2's recommended break-in procedure, but if I remember correctly, they specified conventional oil (not synthetic) during break-in. Although I could be making that up.

 

[imiceman44]

No hard acceleration for 500 miles.
Drive it for 15 miles, stop and let the diff cool completely. Do this 3 more times.
Change fluid at 500 mile mark.

Then.....

Easy enough

 

[ktmoutfront]

Quality 85w-140w non-synthetic.

Also, vary the speeds during break in. Do not just jump on the freeway, but don't sit in stop n go traffic.

 

[America.Mike]

This is going be badass build! Love it so far!

 

[RoccoK5]

This is going be badass build! Love it so far!

Thank you! Just went through your build thread. If mine comes out halfway as good as yours, I'll be happy!

 

[RoccoK5]

Progress! 14 bolt is all buttoned up and back under the frame:

Next, I'll probably run the brake lines, drop in the engine and trans, followed by fuel system. About time to start thinking about what to do with the body...

 

[toomany]

I really should start thinking about cleaning up the body. Considering spraying the underside with Lizard Skin -- anyone have any experience using it as an undercoating? Either way, prep is going to SUCK under here...

I've done LizardSkin on a few vehicles so far. Have been happy with it each time. Both the sound control and heat control.

Last time I used it, I put it on the bottom of the cab as an undercoating (just the sound control), as well as inside (both products). I didn't do anything special for prep work other than a good clean and scuff.

Each application has held up great. Make sure you follow their recommended dry times though. My first time using it I was a little quick on the second coat and it got some spider web cracks as it dried.