Rocco's 77 K5 Blazer - Frame Off 6.2/6L80 Build

[Glen Canyon]

I've done LizardSkin on a few vehicles so far. Have been happy with it each time. Both the sound control and heat control.

Last time I used it, I put it on the bottom of the cab as an undercoating (just the sound control), as well as inside (both products). I didn't do anything special for prep work other than a good clean and scuff.

Each application has held up great. Make sure you follow their recommended dry times though. My first time using it I was a little quick on the second coat and it got some spider web cracks as it dried.

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LizardSkin topped with Raptor Liner

 

[RoccoK5]

Dropped in the engine and trans this afternoon. Went in pretty easily, plenty of clearance (using the ORD engine crossmember and motor mounts).

Waiting on a tranny mount and then will drill and mount the transmission crossmember:

Up next:

1. Transmission Crossmember
2. Brake Lines
3. Fuel System
4. Steering Box/Hoses/Drag Link
5. Rebuild Transfer Case

 

[GWeakland620]

Nice progress!

 

[RoccoK5]

I ordered some parts for the fuel system today:

• 31 gallon TBI Fuel Tank - GM14C
• TBI Fuel Sender - FG17B
• Fuel Pump - AC Delco EP381
• Fuel Filter/Regulator - Corvette Returnless Style (GF822)

I'm going to run all new fuel lines (feed and return to the filter/regulator, feed from regulator to engine) and am trying to decide whether I want to use braided hose or hard lines. I'm thinking braided hose would be easier to work with, but I would prefer hard lines for their cleaner, factory appearance. If I go with hard lines, I'd probably use stainless, which I know would be more difficult to bend/flare than aluminum. Plus, I'd still need some sections of flexible hose (at the tank and engine) to allow for some flex and vibration.

Any thoughts/suggestions on braided hose vs. hard fuel lines?

EDIT: did some searching around, and came across copper/nickel alloy tubing, which apparently can be formed by hand. Maybe use this with AN tube nuts to transition to short sections of braided hose between the tank and frame and engine and frame?

 

[RoccoK5]

Still waiting on fuel system parts to arrive. In the meanwhile, added some casters to the body stand so I can roll the tub around my driveway. I think I've lined up a body shop to start work on it soon while I finish up the frame.

Oh! I also bolted up the steering box, brace, and drag link.

 

[6872xtc]

Cool!!!

 

[RoccoK5]

I had a member reach out and ask about the body stand, so I figured I'd post some more details on it here for anyone else who may be interested.

Here's a list of materials I used to build the body stand:

• Angle 3 x 3 x 3/16 x 20 FT (cross members)
• Square Tube 1-1/2 x 14 gauge x 30 FT (bracing)
• Square Tube 2 x 13 gauge x 10 FT (legs, outer)
• Square Tube 1-3/4 x 14 gauge x 10 FT (legs, inner)

The different tube sizes were so I could nest them for legs that would adjust. I drilled a few holes and used hitch pins to allow for raising and lowering of the stand. This way, I could raise it up to separate it from the frame, then lower it back down.

Here are some measurements:

Here's some of pics showing how it bolts up to the body:

Hope this helps!

 

[RoccoK5]

Mounted the gas tank and ran the fuel lines today.

New sender and pump:

Corvette filter/regulator with AN fittings:

I ran 6 AN PTFE braided hose from the sender to the filter:

And then 3/8 hard line from the filter, along the frame, to the trans crossmember:

And more PTFE hose from the hard line to the fuel rail:

Just need to secure the hose to the bellhousing and trans, then I can call this done!

Up next: NP241 transfer case rebuild and input shaft swap.

 

[RoccoK5]

Test fit the headers today, plenty of clearance around the frame, but I will probably need to relocate the O2 sensor bungs. As they are, looks like it may interfere with the shackle on the driver's side.

 

[RoccoK5]

I started on reworking the wiring harness yesterday. Figured it would be easiest for me to start by installing it on the engine and removing the unneeded connectors (EVAP, A/C, rear O2, t-case, etc). Once I remove all the unneeded stuff I'll label everything and move to the bench. Should be a good time!

 

[RoccoK5]

Getting close to finishing up the harness. I've removed all of the unneeded circuits and now just need to tidy it up and add new loom. I think I'll hold off on wiring in the relays until the body is back on the frame, but may wire up something temporary so I can fire it before then.

I also picked up HP Tuners so I can do the VATS delete, tune out the rear O2s, EVAP, etc.

 

[RoccoK5]

I've slowed down on my build a bit but hoping to pick things back up again otherwise I'll be on pace to not finish until 2022.

I'm waiting on a few things to finish up the harness, so I decided to rebuild the NP241 (new bearings, seals, chain) and swap the input shaft from 27 to 32 spline.

I won't be needing the clocking ring or the adapter, PM me if you want either of 'em.

Any suggestions on what I can use to clean up the case? Will a wire wheel destroy the aluminum?

 

[RoccoK5]

Got the case cleaned up and painted with Eastwood Aluma Blast. Looks pretty good, but not a huge fan of how metallic this paint is. It'll do, though. On to reassembly!

 

[Chevy305]

Subscribed, super clean build and I daily a 6.2/6L80 Silverado I've always wondered how that would do in my K10. Now I get to live vicariously through you

 

[RoccoK5]

Subscribed, super clean build and I daily a 6.2/6L80 Silverado I've always wondered how that would do in my K10. Now I get to live vicariously through you

Thanks! Check back in a year and I may be able to let you know how I like it!

 

[RoccoK5]

Got the transfer case reassembled and bolted in. Time to finish up that engine harness!

 

[RoccoK5]

Holy crap, been a few months since I last posted! I think the 50+ days of 110F heat here in Phoenix have been beating me down. Really wish I had a shop or at least a bigger garage! That said, I have made some minor progress the past couple of months. My short term goal at the moment is to get the engine fired before getting the body back on the frame. To do that, I'd like to get the core support and radiator installed, the harness wrapped up, along with a few other odds and ends.

With that in mind, I finally wrapped up the wire harness. Other than a few wires that'll need to run to the firewall (accelerator pedal, switched 12v, brake signal, etc), it's good for now:

I disassembled the core support and dropped it off at the powder coater, along with the fuel tank skid plate:

I also welded some v-band flanges on the headers (I REALLY need to practice TIG). Will drop these off at the coater's when I pick up the core support:

Up next:

• install core support
• install radiator, hoses
• fluids
• coat and install headers
• ...
• test fire

 

[6872xtc]

How is it going? Has the heat backed down to allow any work?

 

[RoccoK5]

How is it going? Has the heat backed down to allow any work?

Matter of fact, yes! Thanks for checking in.

I actually just finally received a bunch of sheet metal, including the core support, back from the powder coater. Between the heat and waiting on my core support, I hadn't done much in the past couple of months until today.

So I am still planning on trying to get the engine fired up soon, so I mounted the ECM, power relays, OBD2 port, and gas pedal on a board to make things a bit more manageable:

Here are some of the parts back from the coater:

Core support mounted up with new poly bushings and 1" ORD body lift pucks, plus new radiator:

Up next:

• rad hoses, overflow
• trans cooler lines
• fluids, prime engine oil
• intake and MAF
• flush fuel lines
• tuning: disable VATS
• ...
• test fire

Hoping to get the engine fired in the next week or two.

I also REALLY need to get my plan for the body sorted out. Been kicking around the idea of either converting to full vert if I can find the parts, or finding a clean 73-75 tub. Maybe should just stick with what I have and try to actually finish this project sometime in the near future.

 

[ZombieK5]

Matter of fact, yes! Thanks for checking in.

I actually just finally received a bunch of sheet metal, including the core support, back from the powder coater. Between the heat and waiting on my core support, I hadn't done much in the past couple of months until today.

So I am still planning on trying to get the engine fired up soon, so I mounted the ECM, power relays, OBD2 port, and gas pedal on a board to make things a bit more manageable:

Here are some of the parts back from the coater:

Core support mounted up with new poly bushings and 1" ORD body lift pucks, plus new radiator:

Up next:

• rad hoses, overflow
• trans cooler lines
• fluids, prime engine oil
• intake and MAF
• flush fuel lines
• tuning: disable VATS
• ...
• test fire

Hoping to get the engine fired in the next week or two.

I also REALLY need to get my plan for the body sorted out. Been kicking around the idea of either converting to full vert if I can find the parts, or finding a clean 73-75 tub. Maybe should just stick with what I have and try to actually finish this project sometime in the near future.

Besides the frame and radiator support, what have you powder coated? What prep did you do for the radiator support (did you bring it down to bare steel?) if you are comfortable with it, what was the cost of powder coating the frame and radiator support.

My initial Plan was to epoxy prime and paint my radiator support and other panels like that (inside of fenders, quarter panels, Tailpan, tailgate supports and underneath floor pans)

60% done with the wife's Explorer rust repairs then I'm cutting up my 77' K5