now I'm thinking about sectioning the frame on my DD...
I don't have an issue per se with getting it done in a long weekend.. my issue is having the driveshaft made in that time frame......
CK5
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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
now I'm thinking about sectioning the frame on my DD...
I don't have an issue per se with getting it done in a long weekend.. my issue is having the driveshaft made in that time frame......
Nope, Earliest you would find a 32 spline SM465 is 81 and I've parted out a few 81's that had 10 spline.
good to know.. it's ok for now, clutch is decent, bit of 2 gear pop out, but fine.. I'm actually content with it and not looking to go 4500... but if I do a long block in the not too distant future, that'd be the time to slap in a new clutch/flywheel and freshened box..
the WB is what's kickin my arse with the local joysey driving.. I'd really like to get the 70 forward a solid 6"s...
the WB is what's kickin my arse with the local joysey driving..
I'd really like to get the 70 forward a solid 6"s...
a couple coats of gargoyle gray for the dungeon floor..
next on the agenda for Mutt, some fuel stuff and door guts...
next up for the dungeon, finish off the wall painting, lights, reload, fab a rolling cart for the K5...
next on the agenda for Mutt, some fuel stuff and door guts...
next up for the dungeon, finish off the wall painting, lights, reload, fab a rolling cart for the K5...
Floor looks good, but did you have to paint around the wooded stands holding up the K5.
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
Amazing how different it looks not being in the middle of fabbing or some other huge project.
Glad you made it through the storm OK.
Glad you made it through the storm OK.
unfortunately, yes.. I didn't get around to fabbing the cart for it, first fab project... so I'm gonna pick up just a gallon to blend those area's in... also gonna touch up that front lip by the garage door.. save some for repairs, etc...
I didn't go for the flakes due to the cluttered nature of the room/rolling... that was 4 gallons... 1 real HEAVY app, than a piss coat all over... my crete was pretty hammered, rough and porous... it could have used 6 to 8 gallons easily to help smooth it more...
gonna do the lights in the next month or so... but I'm just anxious to get stuff back in and somewhat organized, ready to go at it... should be much easier to keep clean now...
oh, and it was $214 for 4 gallons..
magik235
Still Alive
exactly, it rides great...... but turns like the Queen Mary...
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
I've always said it turns like "Shamu on ice" about the 'Burb.
the reason this came to the forefront with Mutt is, it's the first thing I need to determine before building the tube bed... rail length, rear x-member, tube bed... I wanted to see how bad the wb was driving around locally..
and while I am, and could continue to do so, it'd be nice if it turned just a bit tighter... I don't want to take too much out, and lose too much tube bed, but I really think 6 to 8" might really help it out turning... moreso than the 2" I can get from moving the zero rate around with a new shim..
and it may be the perfect length for the tube bed... not an overly short wheeling type bed, and not stupid long... good proportions, especially for the angled prerunner tubes on the tubebed..
and while I am, and could continue to do so, it'd be nice if it turned just a bit tighter... I don't want to take too much out, and lose too much tube bed, but I really think 6 to 8" might really help it out turning... moreso than the 2" I can get from moving the zero rate around with a new shim..
and it may be the perfect length for the tube bed... not an overly short wheeling type bed, and not stupid long... good proportions, especially for the angled prerunner tubes on the tubebed..
Mutt's current WB...
with said 6 to 8 photochopped out...
with said 6 to 8 photochopped out...
While it looks good shortened up a bit, that's a lot of work to just move the axle 6-8". How much shorter would you have to make it to go true shortbed size? Plus you need to think about having decent room for once you mount your gooseneck hitch.
I DD an 2003 dodge Quadcab longbed which has a wheelbase around 170" and is 23' in length overall. I can park that truck pretty much anywhere with no issues. I actually find it easier to drive then my girlfriends ford focus. The biggest thing I've learned is that when parking its far easier to back the truck into the space then pull in. Unless you can pull all the way through. Course I've been driving this truck since '05 and had a 91 F-250 diesel extracab before it. Now that truck turned like a battleship!
Truck will look good either way though.
I DD an 2003 dodge Quadcab longbed which has a wheelbase around 170" and is 23' in length overall. I can park that truck pretty much anywhere with no issues. I actually find it easier to drive then my girlfriends ford focus. The biggest thing I've learned is that when parking its far easier to back the truck into the space then pull in. Unless you can pull all the way through. Course I've been driving this truck since '05 and had a 91 F-250 diesel extracab before it. Now that truck turned like a battleship!
Truck will look good either way though.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
like I said, it's managable, I'm just wondering how MUCH better would it be 6"s shorter.. and yeah, it is a f*cktn of work for a fairly small amount.. or would it not be enough to make much of a difference...
like i said, a too short wheeling bed isn't what i'm going for.. semi-shortish, mule-like hauling/towing rig, yes.. 12 to 18"s, too much.. 6 to 8, probably good..
anybody got some sort of WB/turning radius pie/chart/diagram of some sort? obviously the x-over makes it way more efficient, albeit titanic..
at this point, I'm really leaning to the simple move it up 2" idea... it's just a committment once decided.....
like i said, a too short wheeling bed isn't what i'm going for.. semi-shortish, mule-like hauling/towing rig, yes.. 12 to 18"s, too much.. 6 to 8, probably good..
anybody got some sort of WB/turning radius pie/chart/diagram of some sort? obviously the x-over makes it way more efficient, albeit titanic..
at this point, I'm really leaning to the simple move it up 2" idea... it's just a committment once decided.....
I have changed the wheel base on a truck before. Oddly enough we wondered how much the different wheelbase would turn.
So it was comparison time. Very applicable here.
First truck Horton 120" wheelbase. 42s
Second truck buddys truggy blazer. 114" wheelbase. So 6" difference.
I turned tighter than him. After we adjusted his steering stops he turned the same as me. Steering stops were adjusted identical to each other.
He may have turned 6" or so tighter than me but in a full complete circle 6" is not much at all.
Now my 2 wd single cab, cab and chassis truck ( 165" wheelbase) didn't turn that much wider.
But my Jimmy on 35s and a dead stock wheelbase turns tighter than Horton.
I don't think 6" out of it will make enough difference to affect just about all of your driving.
Time to embrace the art of preplanning your turns
So it was comparison time. Very applicable here.
First truck Horton 120" wheelbase. 42s
Second truck buddys truggy blazer. 114" wheelbase. So 6" difference.
I turned tighter than him. After we adjusted his steering stops he turned the same as me. Steering stops were adjusted identical to each other.
He may have turned 6" or so tighter than me but in a full complete circle 6" is not much at all.
Now my 2 wd single cab, cab and chassis truck ( 165" wheelbase) didn't turn that much wider.
But my Jimmy on 35s and a dead stock wheelbase turns tighter than Horton.
I don't think 6" out of it will make enough difference to affect just about all of your driving.
Time to embrace the art of preplanning your turns
i just figured when ya get up into those 160ish CC #'s, it might be a greater influence...
and yeah, the reverse methods are the usual parking style employed... but it is definitely a different driving approach than a K5 WB is..
and yeah, the reverse methods are the usual parking style employed... but it is definitely a different driving approach than a K5 WB is..
I am sure I moved it too far....
thats more like a foot...
that wouldn't leave room for the low toolboxes in front of the tires... i think mine is pretty right on for 6 to 8..
the other thing is... getting the bed shorter is not the issue.. i can flip the flips and lop another 8"s off the rails in the back... it's trying to improve the turning..
fock it, 2" shim deal and lop the frame off a bit... done...
that wouldn't leave room for the low toolboxes in front of the tires... i think mine is pretty right on for 6 to 8..
the other thing is... getting the bed shorter is not the issue.. i can flip the flips and lop another 8"s off the rails in the back... it's trying to improve the turning..
fock it, 2" shim deal and lop the frame off a bit... done...
