What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

Overview Gallery Discussion
blowedupmotor87 said:
WOW!!!!! How have I missed this??? :eek1:

AWESOME build!!! Looks absolutely SICK!!! Fantastic work, as per your usual!!! :bow:

Now I really want to build a tube bed!!!! :doah:

Can't wait to see the finished product!!!!! :popcorn:
Click to expand...



thanks man... I'm stoked on the design.. makes it easy to stay motivated and plodding ahead... even tho it won't be done done, I'm revved up to start driving it again in may or so..

shady said:
all them tools and you don't have a mag drill yet....??

time to buy one I guess:D:popcorn:
not needed often enough to own one, but when they're there they're body/ muscle savers lol
Click to expand...


I remember 30 yr's ago when I was restoring cement mixers for a living and we got one of those for drilling holes in the frames, what a godsend that thing was!! :bow:
 
nothings ever simple... :doah: :haha:


so I'm trying to order spring-loaded latches for the tubegate... being I decided to put an alum panel in it, the latches will go on the inside of that.. cool, hides em, etc..

only prob is the taper is backwards on these now...




2206ac1l.png




you want the long flat side to be last in when closed, to keep the gate from opening.. that put's the pull handle facing the wrong direction, facing "in" towards the alum..

they would have worked perfect without the alum, if you where releasing them from the outside of the gate...




grrrrrr, the search continues for a workable solution...



hmmm, maybe a centrally located thing and bars like a garage door... :thinking:
 
ok, thanks, appreciate that.. :bow: yeah, that's all way up in the air the moment... :haha:
 
I may just run something like this...



3356ac1l.png





the thing I don't like about a pin setup is I'm gonna really need to pull the levers to close the gate... whereas the tapered block deal you can just slam it shut and it'll latch...

i'll have to keep looking around and see what I want to do... maybe I'll make something....
 
With a revised strike plate, you could retain the slam latch functionality of that spring pin latch.

I'm thinking of an inclined surface to push the pin back, before it drops into the hole, or just past the incline.

Definitely like the ability to just shut it.
 
yeah, I thought of that.. just seems like it might be a bit finicky... I'm actually thinking that fabbing something may be the best way to go now... mcBible has all kinds of springs...


just trying to get as many of these "weld-on" projects for the tubebed done as quickly as I can.. that's why I ordered parts and will get to that spare tire deal pretty quick..

but I just have to be resolved that I'm gonna be spot grinding and welding stuff onto it till the very end... :haha:

it's one of the reasons I'm totally chomping at the bit to get the sheet alum.. I have all the mounting tabs from Kert, but I need to fit up the panels as I do that.. like I did on the composite stuff in the K5.... using the countersinks dictates I do it that way...

throw in that those same kinda tabs will be used for the toolbox mounts.. which means they wont get put in for a bit... and also the lower side box and battery box on the other side will be done somewhat later too.. :doah: :haha:
 
Last edited:
hmmm, finding square or rectangular springs may be more difficult than I thought...

McBible and the new AmazonSupply = fail.....
 
ryoken said:
nothings ever simple... :doah: :haha:


so I'm trying to order spring-loaded latches for the tubegate... being I decided to put an alum panel in it, the latches will go on the inside of that.. cool, hides em, etc..

only prob is the taper is backwards on these now...




2206ac1l.png




you want the long flat side to be last in when closed, to keep the gate from opening.. that put's the pull handle facing the wrong direction, facing "in" towards the alum..

they would have worked perfect without the alum, if you where releasing them from the outside of the gate...




grrrrrr, the search continues for a workable solution...



hmmm, maybe a centrally located thing and bars like a garage door... :thinking:
Click to expand...
I need to have one in my hand to confirm but I think you can modify it and cut it the other way to make it work
 
hey bud.... :D



now that you say that, I just went back and checked dimensions... I was looking at the jumbo ones anyway.. and they have a 1 3/8" projection, so that may be VERY doable... figure the current taper may be 1/2"...

3/4" projection would probably be plenty, and I would still have the stoutness of the larger unit..... good thinking... :waytogo:

over the next couple days I'm going to figure out that setup... I was gonna have a "spinable" stop, so I could just turn it 90 to push the gate to the forward "removable position"..

but now I'm thinking I'm gonna have the striker plates serve as the stops too... bolted in to the side tubes.. so if I wanna take the gate off, just undo a couple bolts on each side...

I doubt I'm gonna want/need to take it off often... and there isn't a ton of room on the vertical side portions for spin stops, striker plates, etc...





100_1447_zpsec192e43.jpg









got another full day in out there today.. nothing sexy/pic worthy really... basically I removed the back hangars and drilled the vertical holes for them.. than redid the winch mount to shackle area backing plate with welded nuts, etc.... it's beef, should be able to winch a tug boat now.. :pimp:
 
ryoken said:
nothings ever simple... :doah: :haha:


so I'm trying to order spring-loaded latches for the tubegate... being I decided to put an alum panel in it, the latches will go on the inside of that.. cool, hides em, etc..

only prob is the taper is backwards on these now...




2206ac1l.png




you want the long flat side to be last in when closed, to keep the gate from opening.. that put's the pull handle facing the wrong direction, facing "in" towards the alum..

they would have worked perfect without the alum, if you where releasing them from the outside of the gate...




grrrrrr, the search continues for a workable solution...



hmmm, maybe a centrally located thing and bars like a garage door... :thinking:
Click to expand...

A lot of these you can take a part and flip the locking bar so you can chose which side the taper is on. At our local Rural King, they sell similar ones that you can flip 'em around.
 
Heavyleft said:
A lot of these you can take a part and flip the locking bar so you can chose which side the taper is on. At our local Rural King, they sell similar ones that you can flip 'em around.
Click to expand...


but than the grab handle is backwards... the ones they have with hooks, for chains, are flipable like that.. think I'm gonna buy one of the pictured ones and try cutting it down.. if it works, i'll get the other one...
 
I forget how strong it is, but there is an oval / rectangular spring in the rear drums on the 14ff.

And the whole spring kit is like $3.
 
ryoken said:
hmmm, finding square or rectangular springs may be more difficult than I thought...

McBible and the new AmazonSupply = fail.....
Click to expand...

How big do they have to be? They look a lot like magazine springs. Maybe something our of a .45 or Glock?
 
pretty small.. big enough to surround, say, a piece of 1/2 x 1 piece of square stock... stiff compression and like 3, 4" long..

I don't know guns, but I'm guessing they are a bit lighter pressure than what I'm looking for..

I should have a trial latch from McBible tues morn so hopefully that one will work and I don't need to fab something...






if the rain holds off, gonna see about welding up the shock mounts today..



also need/want to grab some mock up broom handles/tubes, etc to decide on whether I want to run 3/4 or 1" on the upper tiedown rail...

I had used 1" for the grab handles on the K5, and just assumed I would use the same here... but it may be a bit too beef.. so I wanna verify what I want before I take a ride down to Fazzio to pick up some round rod this week...
 
I was hoping someone would catch that... ;)


actually, it's true.. I was just down there, and I'm really leaning towards the 3/4" over the 1"... part of that has to do with it being easier to bend... but I also think it may look better proportionately..

I'm also considering 7/8, even tho it's actually a bit more money than 1".. guess cuz of the odd sizing...
 
7/8 is the right choice.. hopefully they have it and it's not stooopid money...





now for 6" radius bends..... think I may try heating em up and bending them around a tube die... I really need to build an actual roll-around fab table at some point that I can tack sh*t down to, etc......

and my kingdom for a real torch setup right now... all I have is our stoopid portable setup from work with tiny bottles... need to do 4 bends...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom