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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

Overview Gallery Discussion
ryoken said:
how it looks with the tubegate done...







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and how the tubegate sits in the open position...




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I've actually kind of run out of projects at the moment till the dies and a few parts get here mid next week... and I get a bit of coin too..

not sure what I'm gonna do tomorrow... maybe organize and clean the Lab™........
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absolutely beautiful! The handrails really finish it off. What paint are you going with for the whole tube structure?

I can't believe how perfect the gate fits while down...:waytogo:
 
thanks..... :D

I'll douche it with the same satin black Imron I did the frame in....
 
y5mgisi said:
Should be able to make those work i think.
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yeah, the big question was getting 1, or 2... at $20 a clip.. would have cost an additional prolly $10 in shipping to order another down the road... so I said f*ck it, just get 2 now and hope it works out ok.. :haha:


next weekend should be busy as he!!.. I'll have the dies in for the lower tube, which will be a whole bunch of work.. and I'll also have everything to do the spare mount by the end of the week too...

and I should be able to fill in this latch work tues, wed, thur-ish, depending on how much they have me working..

now if I could just afford the $500 for alum, I'd have f*cktons of stuff to do and really get a good portion of the tubebed projects done.. pretty much the only thing left after that will be the panelmount tabs for mounting the toolboxes.. obviously I'll wait till I have boxes "in hand" to locate those..
 
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TerryD said:
Slight detour, is Imron as tough as I've heard?
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it's pretty damn tough, to this day... amazing considering it's 35 yr old tech... it's what they run on Hateras boats... the only thing that would hold up on our mixers back in the day..

it's actually a urethane, not a poly.. slightly different resin base.. that's why it has a different hardener ratio than poly... not overly cheap, no catalyzed product is, but not stooopid money either...
 
oh.... and on a build note......

just thought I'd mention this as it's gonna come up hopefully in the next month.. I've been looking at the logistics of these alum panels... so far my base idea was fine... but a couple other things I've come up over the last couple months are that



#1 - I'm going to be adding some underbracing to the 2 large section, and the floor of the coffin.. more than likely 2 on each side, and 4 for the coffin floor..

the coffin floor will be going diamond plate, and also have a quick-release, removable section up front for the gooseneck.. so a couple will be need to frame that out, thus the 4..



#2 - I didn't plan on any panels under the boxes, and still don't as of now.. I'll have to see how that all looks once the hanging storage/dual bat boxes are installed... btw, those really wont be a "hanging" setup, they will be framed in the 1.5" too, mounted at the bottom, just like the uppers...

but in that alum panel thought, I AM going to be doing a piece that goes across the front and curves around the corners to meet the boxes on each side.. in this region..








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so looks like I'll be doing a 6" radius bend on some 1/4 alum too... how yet, I have NOOOOO clue! :doah::haha: eh, more than likely some sort of wood jig deal and the press or porta-power...
 
Stomis said:
Coffee can die?
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hmmmmmmm.... don't think any of the ones they make today would hold up.... :haha: plus it's the wrong diameter, whatever it is, NEEDS to be 12" across...

I'm thinking taking an hr or 2 and doing something out of lumber is gonna be the way... do a negative mold per se.. push the alum into that with a pos half...

I definitely don't want to, or think I'll need to, heat it...
 
ryoken said:
hmmmmmmm.... don't think any of the ones they make today would hold up.... :haha: plus it's the wrong diameter, whatever it is, NEEDS to be 12" across...

I'm thinking taking an hr or 2 and doing something out of lumber is gonna be the way... do a negative mold per se.. push the alum into that with a pos half...

I definitely don't want to, or think I'll need to, heat it...
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Ah **** you're right. I was thinking diameter, its 6in radius 12in diameter. Is a 5gal depot bucket 12in across??
 
just checked, the tops are close to 12, but it won't work anyway, they actually have a taper to em.. the bottom is like 10.. not to mention I have no idea how I could "draw" the metal around, other than kneeing it with my fatarse... keep in mind I need a repeatable process.... I'm thinking 2 little tiny, male/female 1/4 pipe skateboard ramp kinda deals...



fired up the Lab™ heaters! :popcorn: :pimp: :haha:
 
Im not sure Ive ever tried to bend aluminum but I know with steel sheets I kinda had to overbend it to get it to hold shape on its own. What if you built a rail into the radius of the tube for the aluminum to be backed against and simply took the flat sheet and wrapped it and bolted the start and stop of the radius?

I know Ive seen fj40 guys reskin the rear quarters of tubs like that and its pretty much the same concept.
 
If you took a piece of say 1/4 thick by 1/2in wide flat stock and welded it 1/4in offset to the inside of the center of the radius of the bend. That way when you lay your aluminum its in the center of the tube, at least if thats what you want. The steel would be easy to wrap to the tube and basically give you a rib sorta like an old plane fuselage to wrap your aluminum to. It would also give your aluminum something stronger to keep its shape against even after its all bolted down. Just incase it ever gets leaned up against between panel tabs or something lie that.
 
ryoken said:
hmmmmmmm.... don't think any of the ones they make today would hold up.... :haha: plus it's the wrong diameter, whatever it is, NEEDS to be 12" across...

I'm thinking taking an hr or 2 and doing something out of lumber is gonna be the way... do a negative mold per se.. push the alum into that with a pos half...

I definitely don't want to, or think I'll need to, heat it...
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My thoughts were to use a welding bottle, it's not 12" but you are dealing with aluminum that with the spring back should work.
 
You can anneal the aluminum and make it very workable.
 
^^^ Yepper! The easy way to know you got it to temp is to soot it up with the acetylene. Turn on the oxygen and then burn off the acetylene soot, your aluminum is now soft enough to work and not crack.
 
Slapperbar said:
^^^ Yepper! The easy way to know you got it to temp is to soot it up with the acetylene. Turn on the oxygen and then burn off the acetylene soot, your aluminum is now soft enough to work and not crack.
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good info... forgot about that process.. want to do it cold if it goes easy enough, but.. might be a good excuse to buy that torch setup I was looking at... :whistle: :haha:

thanks guys... :D
 
torches have more than enough uses to justify it:waytogo: one of the reasons I like projects is all the cool tools I get to buy cause I NEED it :whistle: :haha:
 
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