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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

ok, I have a bit of an odd request... :whistle: :haha:




I'm trying to figure out how far forward I can bring the rear floor up to the gooseneck.... in front of it really wont matter, cuz that romovable floor section will go up to the back of the fuel tank, so probably a foot in front of the ball..

but behind it, I'd kinda like to get the floor up to where it's over the gooseneck plate.....


I see this gooseneck here, looks like it's not overly huge, maybe 6", 7" in diameter at the base......


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can someone measure theirs for me if they get a chance?





this is tentatively where I'd like to have the opening... that rear green line is about 4 1/2" behind the center of the ball...





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this 30k bulldog one says it has a 4.5" diameter outer tube...



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tho it looks like that flange/pin assembly adds some girth to it..
 
hmmmm, now I'm second guessing my design.. :doah:

maybe I should just do a full floor to the tank.. and cut a window/hatch/removable panel just over the ball when I actually get a trailer... I could do a 1' x 1' removable panel like that hinged one above, but I'd prolly have it removable..
 
I think that's what I'm gonna do... that way I wont have as big an opening while towing too... it'll be a quicker floor install too.. i'll cut the window down the road when it's needed..

now I just need to figure out what that does to my floor bracing.. it means some of the steel I bought is unneeded now... a 2 x 3 I had for the end of the fixed, and beginning of the removable panel for one.. too big now..

really I need 4 of those 1 x 2's that are under the upper panels.. I know I have 3, hopefully there's enough kicking around for a 4th... if not, I have a 2 x 2 I could run for one up front by the tank..
 
more design changes... in addition to the single floor panel mentioned last night, I'm now adding a front wall to the coffin... right behind where the tank will end...





so, a tube across the top and bottom of the coffin..... shown here in orange...


the blue are 1" x 2" rect, stood up vertically...


floor_zps8k2omrmm.jpg



the small front wall, will be the same config as the sidewalls, set 1/2 way in..

the green lines show where the floor will run to... basically 90 degree butts all the way around.. you wont see any of the lower tubes...

and obviously the red is the gooseneck hatch...
 
oh, and to tell ya how much of an anal douche I am... :doah: :haha:



I am STRONGLY considering wasting more material and taking 3 1/2 steps back here....


I'm thinking of cutting out the tube circled here in purple, and moving it forward to the "new" "corner", in pink....



floor5_zpsziiur2lo.jpg






but what that does is basically make everything I did sat and sun null and void...

basically the 3 coffin walls I made would become somewhat scrap.. the only one I didn't make was the ps forward one... so I would need to remake the 2 back ones that much longer to go up to the new corners..

and thus those countersink locations would be wrong for proper spacing, so I'd have to move those panel mounts too.. tho they are just a few tacks holding them in right now thankfully...

that would also make that front left coffin wall not needed.. I wouldn't even run the front ones... the tool boxes and fuel tank will hide that area...

THE one saving grace is, I could probably repurpose one of those 3 panels, as the front wall of the coffin..



I need to do a bit of math/geometry tomorrow, but I THINK I have enough alum left to do this... I have a full 4 x 8 and all I need out of it is, the coffin floor, and the 2 small rectangles for the tubegate...




it IS the right way to go.. it would look SO much better than that tube sitting 6" behind that wall..

hindsight engineering brings the suck.. :angry1: :(

if I had realized this when I was building the coffin at the very beginning... he!!, even Friday, would have saved me a ton of effort...


what say ye CK5 masses, should I nut up, eat the labor, and do what I think is the right way/look? :dunno: :ears:
 
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ok, I have plenty of alum to do this.. it leaves me enough leftover for 3 extra taillight panels.. so a f*ck up, and 2 for the future LED ones...
 
It'll definitely look more "right" that way. It just sucks doing rework.

Martin
 
thanks.. for now I'm ok.. I'll do the "window" later, so I can size it than... just need to leave plenty of room with the x-members..


and yeah, I'm just gonna nut up and do it right... sucks eating that 20+hr's, and creating interesting alum scrap... but it's best to just do it the way I think it should be done, than regret it later......

I've already got eleventy hundred hr's in it, what's a few more.. :doah: :haha:

and at least with a set plan now, hopefully the rework can go pretty smooth and somewhat quick...
 
Are you going to be able to put a sheet of 4'x8' plywood in the back of this? That has always been my main beef with my S10, overall length is fine but boy howdy I wish it was 4' between wheel wells.

I can fit 10 sheets in the blazer, before the cage is in the way.:dunno:
 
You would never be happy if you left it as is.

"what say ye CK5 masses, should I nut up, eat the labor, and do what I think is the right way/look? "

I think it's safe to say we have all done work to our rigs and then mentally had a lane change causing us to rethink what was completed already.:doah:

You already know what you need to do.:waytogo:

It will look like Ryoken Projects normally look....Flawless!:D
 
Are you going to be able to put a sheet of 4'x8' plywood in the back of this? That has always been my main beef with my S10, overall length is fine but boy howdy I wish it was 4' between wheel wells.

I can fit 10 sheets in the blazer, before the cage is in the way.:dunno:

Thats the defining characteristic of width for a fullsize truck... Wouldnt really make much sense if the s10 was that big.
 
Are you going to be able to put a sheet of 4'x8' plywood in the back of this? That has always been my main beef with my S10, overall length is fine but boy howdy I wish it was 4' between wheel wells.

I can fit 10 sheets in the blazer, before the cage is in the way.:dunno:

Thats the defining characteristic of width for a fullsize truck... Wouldnt really make much sense if the s10 was that big.



with a ratchet strap, I could put a stack of eleventy on the back... :dunno:

I'm not building houses, or 1/2 pipes, here..... :whistle:
 
When you do resume work on the hitch portion of the bed, do not forget to allocate space for the safety chains. Most of the goosenecks I've been around use 3/8" chain with slip hooks instead of the bent rod hooks that smaller trailers use.

This...

129_0909_20_z+2005_dodge_power_wagon+turnover_ball_gooseneck_hitch.jpg


vs this...

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I just looked at this pic and thought maybe you should measure from the side.... it looks like you'll have to pull your spare off every time you want to hook up a gooseneck...:dunno:

floor5_zpsziiur2lo.jpg
 
I just looked at this pic and thought maybe you should measure from the side.... it looks like you'll have to pull your spare off every time you want to hook up a gooseneck...:dunno:


that picture isn't really to scale per se....

in this pic, the front of that upright piece of metal should be the very front of the gooseneck tube....

so it should be fine...


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and yeah, good point about the chains... here's my plate setup with chainholds... and relooking at this pic is a reminder to me that the window/hatch may actually end up a rectangle, wider than front/back due to the safety hooks...







100_1456_zps2a9ff44d.jpg
 
yeah should be ok with a car hauler type trailer... square nose camper wouldn't work though lol not that you'll probably be towing one
 
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