2 of those "bending" leads are actually just short ones that will stay inside the box, so that would apply...... the other pos/neg will be a full run to the front of the rig...
CK5
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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
2 of those "bending" leads are actually just short ones that will stay inside the box, so that would apply...... the other pos/neg will be a full run to the front of the rig...
sooo, for the bored and easily entertained........ some bourbon-infused build babble for a friday night... 
the other fuel fill came in... it makes the tank feeds poifect.. still working out whether to Tee the vent lines, or do duals.. and measure out exactly where the pickup, return and sender will be on the top plate... but I'm ready to run down there next week... I'll do the pre-call from the marina the day before, and roll-in with Mutt saturday morn...
hopefully they'll be stoked on building sumfin for the rig..... (I've got a nice big sticker spot on the back window for you guys on a smokin" deal...
)
hmmm, should I hint at that?
anyway.. on the box front, I'm in an extreme brain-battle on 2/0 vs 1/0... it's a 12' run.... normal #'s say the 1/0 should be fine... but it's hard being a marine mech not to be stoopid overKill on bat beef... tough starting, cold night, ya don't want the cable being a limiting issue, yada, drama......
the initial, "be smart about it" approach for this whole deal is that cable movement... I'm definitely setting this up for #27's.. 24 in a pinch obviously.. 31's are gonna be too big... the whole cable carrier, track, mount in the tray/ceiling avenue I need to take here, is definitely gonna limit the bat footprint.. and change the intended cable routing...
hopefully gonna work out new wire routing, bat mounting tomorrow... these tracks are all looking like 2" to 3" in width..... which means, the bat tray may actually be shifted completely into one corner to make path for a wire bundle/track to run up one side of the tray..
but that is all gonna start with me cutting up a bit of 2/0 and 1/0 into short sacrificial pieces to measure bundle size/diameter, and check a bit more on total flexibility.... I don't have unlimited amounts of test stuff... about 3" of 1/0.. and about 6" of 2/0..
initial test tracks in nylon that I suspect may be the right size are either $59, or $88... but i need to finalize that first.. hopefully I'm not throwing either of those into a "sacrificial pile" *cough @Greg72 cough*
I'm willing to make one measuring mistake, but not 2...
the other fuel fill came in... it makes the tank feeds poifect.. still working out whether to Tee the vent lines, or do duals.. and measure out exactly where the pickup, return and sender will be on the top plate... but I'm ready to run down there next week... I'll do the pre-call from the marina the day before, and roll-in with Mutt saturday morn...
hopefully they'll be stoked on building sumfin for the rig..... (I've got a nice big sticker spot on the back window for you guys on a smokin" deal...
)hmmm, should I hint at that?
anyway.. on the box front, I'm in an extreme brain-battle on 2/0 vs 1/0... it's a 12' run.... normal #'s say the 1/0 should be fine... but it's hard being a marine mech not to be stoopid overKill on bat beef... tough starting, cold night, ya don't want the cable being a limiting issue, yada, drama......
the initial, "be smart about it" approach for this whole deal is that cable movement... I'm definitely setting this up for #27's.. 24 in a pinch obviously.. 31's are gonna be too big... the whole cable carrier, track, mount in the tray/ceiling avenue I need to take here, is definitely gonna limit the bat footprint.. and change the intended cable routing...
hopefully gonna work out new wire routing, bat mounting tomorrow... these tracks are all looking like 2" to 3" in width..... which means, the bat tray may actually be shifted completely into one corner to make path for a wire bundle/track to run up one side of the tray..
but that is all gonna start with me cutting up a bit of 2/0 and 1/0 into short sacrificial pieces to measure bundle size/diameter, and check a bit more on total flexibility.... I don't have unlimited amounts of test stuff... about 3" of 1/0.. and about 6" of 2/0..
initial test tracks in nylon that I suspect may be the right size are either $59, or $88... but i need to finalize that first.. hopefully I'm not throwing either of those into a "sacrificial pile" *cough @Greg72 cough*
I'm willing to make one measuring mistake, but not 2...
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Don’t forget the eBay option on that cable nylon stuff. Seems like it could be a deal, and or work great for cheap tests
yeah, thanks... I did do a quick look around there... specs can be difficult... it's another apparently HUGE industry I knew nothing about...
the size of this, how the bundle is wrapped, with what, and more specifically how they are configured, is most important... the metal ones seem to be lower and wider.. 3" to 5" wide.... it's too much.. whereas the nylons can be had in much wider range of sizes... i like McBible cuz the spec/etc is very well controlled.. I figure 1.5" x 1.5" should be plenty of room. but not, too much...
that translates into about 2" x 2" outer dimensions..., much squarer/narrower than you can get in metal... and i would do the 4 2/0's stacked 2 x 2 and the other 8 gauge-ish bundle in where i can....
once i'm happy with a carrier sizing, meaning it sitting in front of me with a mock-up bundle fitting in it nicely, than I'll buy the wire..
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Nice! I love the light bar...I'm biased of course...I bet that's an awesome sight in real life.
i really like that top shot...
*pretty sure I'm going down to 3 2/0 cables that move, instead of 4....*
oh, for the record... man, that little 20" lightbar is stoopid bright... but that company sucks... Quality lightbar..... cheap, but super slow shipping, and got screwed out of one pod light... it all comes direct from china seperately...
here's how the fill hoses will work out..... getting these allowed me to finalize the 2" fill locations.....
it's nice they are spaced apart, leaves space down the middle for the vents, pickup and return.. the sender will be on the other side of the hose...
it's nice they are spaced apart, leaves space down the middle for the vents, pickup and return.. the sender will be on the other side of the hose...
How are you going to access those to attach them to the tank ?
I have a feeling there is going to be a big access panel cut into the back part of the "dog house".
the access panel is on the top.....
Looks awesome!
couple things... I'm expecting this thing to fuel sweet.... as much as the nozzle can throw at it... he!1, throw 2 pumps at it!!!!!!!!
individual vents, 10* down angle on those fills, and another 10* on the tank feeds... I was conservative in my tank height to allow for that... if i had pushed that another inch, and dropped the bottom of the tank below the top of the frame a few inches, the GALLON #'s would be stoopid.... up in the 80's at least...
the way I have the "serviceable" stuff, p-u, return, sender, etc setup, anything should be able to access without removing the doghouse... tho actually, the top plate has more fasteners than the 6 larger doghouse ones... but there's a question, can I pull the doghouse with the tank in frame and spare tire above it? really shouldn't be necessary, but it is an unknown...
the other thing is, where i have the pick-up setup, dead center, all the way forward BEGS to have a small sump area there.. maybe 10" x 10" lower than the rest of the tank, to drop the pickup right level with the rest of the bottom, but I'll see how much extra the tank boys say and what they think..
I love this tank in the sense that it's dizzle mechanical.. just a pickup tube... no moving parts, smart sender... the front of the tank will be about 2" away from the front tubes/doghouse.. to allow for the 2 fuel lines. down to the frame.....
as much as the nozzle can throw at it... he!1, throw 2 pumps at it!!!!!!!! individual vents, 10* down angle on those fills, and another 10* on the tank feeds... I was conservative in my tank height to allow for that... if i had pushed that another inch, and dropped the bottom of the tank below the top of the frame a few inches, the GALLON #'s would be stoopid.... up in the 80's at least...
the way I have the "serviceable" stuff, p-u, return, sender, etc setup, anything should be able to access without removing the doghouse... tho actually, the top plate has more fasteners than the 6 larger doghouse ones...
but there's a question, can I pull the doghouse with the tank in frame and spare tire above it? really shouldn't be necessary, but it is an unknown... the other thing is, where i have the pick-up setup, dead center, all the way forward BEGS to have a small sump area there.. maybe 10" x 10" lower than the rest of the tank, to drop the pickup right level with the rest of the bottom, but I'll see how much extra the tank boys say and what they think..
I love this tank in the sense that it's dizzle mechanical.. just a pickup tube... no moving parts, smart sender... the front of the tank will be about 2" away from the front tubes/doghouse.. to allow for the 2 fuel lines. down to the frame.....
soooooo, the stoopid free AmaZ0n relay/switch i got for free that I'm using for the drawer lights, failed in 2 weeks..
just walked outside to do my garbage and noticed the drawer lights where on... pulled the fuse.. just gonna cut the switch out and throw a toggle in.. it's all coming out with the 12v anyway...
Ryoken's build theme thing.... keep the factory column.. everything else is subjective...
just walked outside to do my garbage and noticed the drawer lights where on... pulled the fuse.. just gonna cut the switch out and throw a toggle in.. it's all coming out with the 12v anyway... Ryoken's build theme thing.... keep the factory column.. everything else is subjective...
on the box front, I'm in an extreme brain-battle on 2/0 vs 1/0... it's a 12' run.... normal #'s say the 1/0 should be fine... but it's hard being a marine mech not to be stoopid overKill on bat beef... tough starting, cold night, ya don't want the cable being a limiting issue, yada, drama......
Have you calculated the resistance -> voltage drop across that run?
Is that on the 1/0 or 2/0 if there's not a massive difference between the 2 it may be better to go a bit smaller rather than dealing w/ the bulk and weight that's not necessary. May be good to have more than excess in boating, but you don't really need to overbuild to that degree in your truck. You keep up on maintenance more than most people so any problems in the brewing you'd find.
