The drivers side had a big dent in it and the passenger side had waves all down it
You can't see it but the dent goes through the body line and down through the White to the wheel well
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
The drivers side had a big dent in it and the passenger side had waves all down it
You can't see it but the dent goes through the body line and down through the White to the wheel well
i buy my burrs in sets like this..
but for hogging a hole out like that, the cylinder shaped ones like the 3rd and 4th from the right are usually the safest approach... they can be bought individually...
but for hogging a hole out like that, the cylinder shaped ones like the 3rd and 4th from the right are usually the safest approach... they can be bought individually...
If I put a sheet of plywood on two saw horses and lay the door on it inside down, the measurements of the bottom edge should be the same all the way across? Right? These doors aren't meant to be bowed or curved? 
it should be.. but thats not the way to do it, measuring a set distance determined by the inner shell..... laying a straight edge across the bottom is the more accurate way...
I took the door off and put it on a table. I put the straight edge on the inside lip of the bottom of the door....it is straight as an arrow in the middle and draws away on each end.
The backside of the door draws away in the area that I welded it. The front of the door draws away for about 8 - 10". The area I bent today is oddly flush with the straight edge at the outer corner.
How the heck do you bend an area that long?
I'm literally just going to have to start over with this door....I took a piece of 2x4 and a rubber mallet and let the weight of the hammer tap the rear corner down....I got the corner level...but the outside skin split...I won't know exactly where until I sand off the primer...it appears to be in the patch that I welded in...not the welds...but in the center of the patch
ever feel like you are trying to dig your way out of a hole?
I don't see any way to get the whole edge straight without causing some damage and sanding and filling....when I blocked it, I didn't know the corners were high...so the outside appeared mostly level while a straight edge to the inside showed the warping....
I needed to fill those mirror holes anyway and drill and install those Nutserts for the tripods...but I hate doing work twice and even more times...
ever feel like you are trying to dig your way out of a hole?
I don't see any way to get the whole edge straight without causing some damage and sanding and filling....when I blocked it, I didn't know the corners were high...so the outside appeared mostly level while a straight edge to the inside showed the warping....
I needed to fill those mirror holes anyway and drill and install those Nutserts for the tripods...but I hate doing work twice and even more times...
Wish I had a template for an original new door profile...like a piece of plywood with the shape routed out of it...just try to slip it on and if it doesn't fit you could see exactly where it isn't right...
By the way, do oem fenders have a spotweld in that seam at the rocker? If I were to find one in a parts yard is it welded or all bolt-on?
By the way, do oem fenders have a spotweld in that seam at the rocker? If I were to find one in a parts yard is it welded or all bolt-on?
profile in what way, top to bottom?
fenders are bolted on...
fenders are bolted on...
Yeah...the side edges...that would tell me if the corners were the right height then I could straighten from there...but surely the center of the door is correct...that area shouldn't ever get bent....
and not saying I am going to buy a junkyard fender, but the thought is definitely crossed my mind...
you shouldn't need a profile, you should be able to tell that by hand longboard x-cutting it... and yeah, I'm sure your gonna be spotting in bodywork on it now.. no big.. just feather your primer back...
I finally got the straight line roughed out....might as well show everybody the bad with the good...here it is...need to tweak it just a tiny bit up front but the line is there
no big, just grind it back till it's not peeled and adhering good and redo...
On that front corner...in the picture it looks bent...it's really not according to my straight edge...it's that ripple showing through from the back that is making it look that way....the corner is good, I just need to pound that ripple down....
hunt down a scrap of some heavy gauge sheetmetal, like 12 to 16 gauge and slide it down in the door corner as a dolley, than lightly work it with the hammer on the outside... that light dinging spoon i mentioned is what i would be using as opposed to the sheetmetal...
Thanks for the help again...I thought I was gonna lose my mind when i knew the quarter was screwed, the door was warped and the fender isn't stamped right....I didn't even factor this kind of stuff in...
eh, hang in there bud.. don't get frustrated, it doesn't help, and usually causes problems.... bodywork can be that way.. you'll get thru it.... i'd try out that pass side before the qrters get in...
Door isn't finished completely on that side, but I guess that's a good thing...I actually got two brands of fenders to compare....Sherman (crappy) and GoodMark (We'll see)
For what it's worth, I got that patch panel from Schott Metal in Ohio...made here in America...Wow! I don't have a micrometer but I bet that thing is as thick as 3 aftermarket pieces...may be 16ga ....
Man I wish they made whole fenders and quarters.....
Man I wish they made whole fenders and quarters.....
good to know for others... I see an ad in the for sale section in your future... 
