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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
I think we need to have a CK5 huntdown to find the original die sets for all the panels from these rigs, put real steal in and make our own :D (if only)

Its so depressing seeing everyone that gets panels is needing to fix dents and crappy flaws. :doah:​
 
iirc, they are just caged on the bottom, you may be able to run the bolts up thru the bottom to desired height..

also iirc, inside those ovals, the plate moves in the cage.. you could probably just work a cable layers of masking tape on that whole plate.. than just break off any mud that hangs over onto the plates.. it should hopefully be thin at the oval edges and bolt areas are the high points...
 
Deuling said:
I think we need to have a CK5 huntdown to find the original die sets for all the panels from these rigs, put real steal in and make our own :D (if only)

Its so depressing seeing everyone that gets panels is needing to fix dents and crappy flaws. :doah:​
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from what I understand, GM still has them...they license out molds and dies to aftermarket manufacturers but what I hear is that they are the well worn ones not the real good ones.
 
Deuling said:
I think we need to have a CK5 huntdown to find the original die sets for all the panels from these rigs, put real steal in and make our own :D (if only)

Its so depressing seeing everyone that gets panels is needing to fix dents and crappy flaws. :doah:​
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to go with the thinner, crappier stampings, they don't get packed as well as the OEM stuff did... OEM stuff to our collision shop would barely have a ding here or there...
 
ryoken said:
to go with the thinner, crappier stampings, they don't get packed as well as the OEM stuff did... OEM stuff to our collision shop would barely have a ding here or there...
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the guy I bought the NOS tailgate from was kind enough to build a crate out of 1/4" plywood that he put it in...you could stand on it....
 
Its just to bad nobody can take some precaution and make some quality panels anymore.
 
Most of the waves on the top of the rail are cause by where they punched or drilled the holes along the inner side of the rail....
 
Chief Brody said:
Most of the waves on the top of the rail are cause by where they punched or drilled the holes along the inner side of the rail....
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Most likely because they had little or no support on the bottom side when they were punched or drilled out. Causing downward force to push in on the metal. I just took an entire class about designing fixtures for machining stuff. I could make it work :thumb:
 
You don't want to know what I see when I Google "morgan knockers"...
 
it's the plural that's getting ya the motorboat pics... hehe, motorboat, Orca....
 
What would said Nokker do for me? I know what it does...but which of my troubles is this designed to fix?
 
yup, mines the metal box set up.. i was kidding tho.. perfect for something like that, but not worth buying... if ya drill the screw fixture out ysa can stick a bolt in there... or weld one...
 
I was also talking about the little holes for the interior bed panels to attach to...that surface is wavy too and caused some of the top to be wavy
 
Deuling said:
Oh i see now, its like a slide hammer right?

My buddy borrowed one when we were workin on his box, got one of those little welder guns that welds the little copper rod to it and you tighten the slide hammer to it and pop the dents out
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that's a stud puller, VERY handy tool for standard dent work...... a morgan knocker is WAY bigger... 9 lb slide vs like 2 pd... excellent for structural things... hook onto, grap things, etc... you'd stand in the bed, thread in down in the holes and bang it up to pull the low hole section up, cage, backing plate and all...
 
ryoken said:
that's a stud puller, VERY handy tool for standard dent work...... a morgan knocker is WAY bigger... 9 lb slide vs like 2 pd... excellent for structural things... hook onto, grap things, etc... you'd stand in the bed, thread in down in the holes and bang it up to pull the low hole section up, cage, backing plate and all...
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with these I am not so sure you'd need that much power....

Probably screw a bolt in through the center of an old lawnmower blade and pull or tap it up...the slide hammer would probably pull the assembly through the metal...:doah:
 
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