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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

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Also, I am guessing that the place I sandblasted is one of those areas that you just hit with primer and then paint? I don't know how you would sand it?

Also....I can't get all the sand out of the hood....
 
alright, i'll start backwards here.... get the raw stuff you just blasted in primer... no need to sand it.... i don't know what your using for primers, but generally if i put my green on it, then fill prime, it's filled any grit from blasting...


once you get that raw stuff in primer you can work to get the sand out thoroughly.. the reason i said to prime first is the moisture from a blow gun will help contaminate the raw stuff.. once you've spotted it in, you can run the blow gun thru it all day...

i use mostly these in recent yrs...


1574_lg.jpg




it helps too, to rotate the hood and blow it out, rotate 90 on edge, blow it, rotate, yada...


as to prep... it's how much you wanna work.. generally your best priming the inside first, then the outside.. same with paint... just like trimming a panel in the collision shop..

sanding.. as much as you want.. try some 180 on the outside and see how it does.. if it rips the paint off and the primer under looks ok.. there ya go... it's the same as all the other panels, qrter, etc.... it's nice to have completely raw steel, do your repairs, zinc it, then fill prime just to have piece of mind as to knowing whats there, but it isn't necessary...
 
Need your opinion on strategy...I don't necessarily have a plan as to how I am going about this...I kind of just pick something to work on...

I am a little worried about order...like for example, I am not sure I want a hood that is dressed up and nowhere to go just sitting around....is that wrong thinking? I am easily distracted and can be drawn off course by something else...

I started with the bedrails rust with the intention of working inside out...and now here I am with hood and fender off...

Is there any value to a method? Do you have or see a particular order that would make my work flow better towards the goal of getting this thing painted?
 
well, don't even consider getting paint on anything until the entire truck is in primer...

just try to get anything your working on thru primer.... getting removed parts in primer first is best.. they can easily be stored/covered up until ready to paint everything... and even if they get stuff on em, no big, ya gotta scuff em/sand em for paint anyway..

if you can get the whole panel ready, inside and out, then prime the whole thing.. or underside of the hood, flip, prime outside, it's best... you don't want to be sanding the inside hood, prime it, then flip over and do all your stripping, bodywork, primer.... you can, it's just better to do it all in one shot...

once all the bolt on's are in primer, you get the cab ready.. then you trim everything in paint, door jambs, fender insides, etc... this can, and often includes shooting the interior... then reassemble the truck... then you do a final sanding of the exterior, shoot the outside...
 
ryoken said:
just try to get anything your working on thru primer.... getting removed parts in primer first is best.. if you can get the whole panel ready, inside and out, then prime the whole thing.. or underside of the hood, flip, prime outside, it's best... once all the bolt on's are in primer, you get the cab ready..
Click to expand...

I guess it's time to get that 1.8 paint gun next so I can shoot some filler primer
 
I got a question....hood has many high places....sander is flat....how do you sand the curved area that is closest to the windshield without the outer edge of the sander gouging it?

There's always going to be that "valley" area between flat and angled that you can't hit with a flat sander...:dunno:

Image1.jpg
 
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There is a couple of ways.
I'm sure Ryoken will have the best, but the one I use from time to time when sanding odd shapes is this custom attachment called, "The Hand":D
 
that's when you can let it angle up a bit... it's still best to work the sander in a 45 degree crosscut pattern like i mentioned earlier..... you just have to be aware like i mentioned before that when you angle the pad and sand at the edge, it will want to dig out that area..

on steel, if stripping, no big deal whatsoever, but if your just trying to remove some paint, keep the sander moving and WATCH what it's doing... if you leave it in one area it'll cut thru and that lead to bad featheredges..

are you stripping with 80? or just trying to smooth it all with 180?
 
Fordum said:
There is a couple of ways.
I'm sure Ryoken will have the best, but the one I use from time to time when sanding odd shapes is this custom attachment called, "The Hand":D
Click to expand...


let's try to keep him to blockssanding, flatpadding, etc as much as possible... ;)

he'll need to do some obviously by the end, but i'll try to lead him to more timesaving, safe methods... especially pre-prime, handsanding/stripping can be a bit time consuming.. seen some noobs do some bad things handsanding... i'd rather see him use a handblock or one of the many soft pads out...


you think you write novels, get me discussing handsanding techniques... :doah: :haha:
 
Chief Brody said:
I haven't decided yet...may be easier to just strip it...:dunno:
Click to expand...

as i've said, many times it is just easier to bring it to raw steel...... depending on how the finish sands... sometimes just ripping it mostly off with 80, then cleaning it up for prime with some 180 is faster, and certainly a better, safer way to do it... your not dealing with lots of feathering and such.. worrying about how your fill prime will react with the feathered, open edges, cringing, etc....
 
ryoken said:
as i've said, many times it is just easier to bring it to raw steel...... depending on how the finish sands... sometimes just ripping it mostly off with 80, then cleaning it up for prime with some 180 is faster, and certainly a better, safer way to do it... your not dealing with lots of feathering and such.. worrying about how your fill prime will react with the feathered, open edges, cringing, etc....
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And of ALL places...the hood has to look good...
 
And you never thought of being a teacher...

One of these day I`m going to go and read all this thread, good stuff!
 
just be careful on the larger expanses of flat sheetmetal not to bear down too hard, they like to flex a lot not near edges and bodylines... take your time in those areas with a "lighter" touch... if you notice it's excessive, you can resecure it to the under frame with dollops of seam sealer...
 
If I take the whole hood to bare metal won't I have to spray zinc chromate with a spraygun?
And after spraying with the Ryoken Green what do you sand it with before fill primer? The green stuff is thin and won't take much sanding....

I'm not sure I can get an even coat with the SEM rattle cans...
 
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it can be rattlecanned... ya just need a couple pisscoats... a couple zebra stripes ain't gonna hurt it.. just overlap and change your direction of spray for the second coat..

really, it's supposed to be covered with fill in short order, so wet on wet, no sanding necessary... but in the real world thats rarely happening, if it dries on the overnight, run a scuffpad over it... you dont want to sand it if you can... pretty sure i mentioned all this when you where doing the qrter panel...


read this.... http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262999&highlight=zinc+chromate+tech


i don't remember SEM making a zinc chromate...
 
thanks man... been doing all this kinda stuff for a long, long time.... the work can be very frustrating and difficult if you don't know what your doing or aren't equipped right, so if my experience helps somebody, I'm glad to do it...

I really think if I didn't have the grammar of a 6 yr old, I could write a book.... I know I have plenty of material....

hopefully we can bring the shark killer through the project without him having a breakdown or bankruptcy and this thread ends up being a good future tech source for others....
 
You would have to double check with Cool Beans, or whoever has the sayso, but I'm not sure of who would hold a copyright on something like this.
I would willingly grant permission for what little I have posted.

But, it would be kinda cool to have this thread printed up at Office Max or Office Depot.
Get it bound in real, rich 'Corinthian Leather,.......

Get Suzanne Somers or somebody to hawk it on late night TV.....................
 
Fordum said:
Get it bound in real, rich 'Corinthian Leather,.......

Get Suzanne Somers or somebody to hawk it on late night TV.....................
Click to expand...


Bind it in Saddle Tan Vinyl and get Jennifer Connelly to do it! Sheeee's Purty :waytogo:

jennifer_connelly_b77gw.jpg
 
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