Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[ryoken]

oh, btw, how them arms feeling after fightin gamin fish all day? tis best if you heed my warnings...


btw, good work.. bet it felt good to be laying some primer on it... and no, your FAR from done, but it's a start...

 

[Chief Brody]

oh, btw, how them arms feeling after fightin gamin fish all day? tis best if you heed my warnings...


btw, good work.. bet it felt good to be laying some primer on it... and no, your FAR from done, but it's a start...

FYI for anybody who is reading this and is a noob like myself....this whole bodywork filler thing got a step easier when I realized that it doesn't have to be perfect when you lay it down...I was trying to literally lay this stuff flat and neat....it was taking me too long and my batches were "kicking"...hardening before I finished.
It is when I allowed myself to work quickly and stopped worrying about what the filler looked like is when I started slathering it on and it actually went on nicer than when I was trying so hard....

"Ya got city hands Mr. Hooper....been countin' money all yer life"....

 

[ryoken]

hate to say I told ya so....

it proves one thing, Mr. Hooper. It proves that you wealthy college boys don't have the education enough to admit when you're wrong.

 

[Chief Brody]

hate to say I told ya so....

it proves one thing, Mr. Hooper. It proves that you wealthy college boys don't have the education enough to admit when you're wrong.

Stop playin' with yourself Mr. Hooper....slow ahead...if you please....

 

[tRustyK5]

Fun bodywork tech...with clever "Jaws" one liners. Beautiful.

We need to find a Shark smilie and have Steve add it.

Rene

 

[euzoa]

Chief I think I am just going to subscribe to you, all the questions you ask seem like things i will run into eventually.

 

[ryoken]

it's still, to this day, a fallback movie.. heck, I watched it last week on Encore for the eleventy thousandith time... like T2, nothing else on, I'll watch it...


PowerBlock stepped up today.. full show on the 14B on Extreme.. and Trucks did a decent segment on soft sanding blocks on the bodywork side of things...

 

[Chief Brody]

it's still, to this day, a fallback movie.. heck, I watched it last week on Encore for the eleventy thousandith time... like T2, nothing else on, I'll watch it...


PowerBlock stepped up today.. full show on the 14B on Extreme.. and Trucks did a decent segment on soft sanding blocks on the bodywork side of things...

It's the first movie I ever saw...way back in 1975...we were poor country folk and I was 10 years old before I stepped into a theater...needless to say the room itself blew me away...the incredible sound and that big huge screen....then top it off with the fact that I was watching IMO one of the best films ever made...so it is ingrained in me...throughout my life I wanted to be Hooper and Brody...I love the beach...so the setting was special to me...and I loved that K5 that Martin drove around the Island in...that's how I arrived here on this forum

As for Powerblock...I keep missing it...can you watch those shows on the internet? Wish I had seen the Trucks episode.

 

[JDNobodi]

Yes you can, but you have to wait till tomorrow to catch this weekends shows. For some odd reason, they won't show the shows on the internet till they air on the network first.
I always like watching on tv though, the online ads usually happen right in the middle of the show.

 

[Chief Brody]

keep in mind... there comes a point where battling getting a decent featheredge, in minimum areas, becomes not time effective and your better off just stripping it right off the bat... easier to just wail with some 80 on a DA, as opposed to a controlled cut 180..

You mean like that spot at the rear of the rail?

but if you decide to take the "just strip the last job off" approach, I would just sand the heck out of the truck with some 150 to 180.. it's a good cut for primer to stick to on existing paint, etc...

What should be my main sander for this? Should I get a DA? I have a palm orbital...would Roloks be a bad idea for this?

 

[ryoken]

You mean like that spot at the rear of the rail?

no.... what I'm saying is if you sand the truck and have tons of feather-edged sections, raw steel, factory paint, etc... looking very "camo-ish"... your better off stripping it, then contending with having the feather edges smooth and accept primer well....

also, if you baby it, and leave all those layers on it, the feather edges will be VERy difficult to prime and look decent.. as you mentioned on the paint edge on the qrter... the spot on the back is minor.. glaze, wetsand, reprime.. but imagine if those kinda spots where ALL over the entire truck when ya go to prime...


and no, a roloc would take a month to strip the truck.. your bringing up the rotary vs dual action/orbital question again.. stripping the truck? sure you can do an initial cut with a rotary tool, roloc, etc.. i've often used my 7" makita with 36 grit to remove 90% of paint.. than just hit it with a DA for the last bit... it's all about stepsaving as a pro...

but "sanding", removing layers, and not stripping it to raw steel, you can't use a rotary tool.. a palm sander will work.. it's just gonna take a lot longer than a DA on a whole truck...

 

[Chief Brody]

Back to the quarter panel rail tomorrow....but today I went to a welding shop and had the door striker plate fixed and the tail pan fixed and the bad place on top of the tailgate....
I hope I did good...the door strike got cut out and a new piece of metal put in....same with the top of the tailgate.
Now comes the fun part....the guy torches the quarterpanel loose from the floor and the tailpan...jacks it up with a large 4x4 on the bent down part of the tailpan....gets it as far as it will go and he says somethin ain't right...
he gets under there and pulls out a block of wood! Somebody stuffed a block of wood in there...after some hammering a pulling and persuasion it finally straightened out....BUT...when we go to close the tailgate, the left side of the tailgate is at least an inch too high.
he said that is the reason the tailpan was bent down...that's how somebody fixed the tailgate problem...by pounding down on the left side...

After much aggravation he was able to "massage" it into alignment...the tailgate gaps aren't perfect but I can work on that myself.

 

[Chief Brody]

I may only have one more thing to weld, and that's what I was trying to do was get the welding done so I can get a better air compressor instead...the drivers door may be the only thing left that needs welding...

 

[Chief Brody]

OK..Back to the QP

What do I do with the area that connects to the doorjamb? Previosly somebody put body filler over the quarterpanel lapover.

It isn't even and flat....

 

[Chief Brody]

Getting ready to sand that top area again....I sprayed a good coat of gray primer first...then dusted it with some black primer...hopefully this will more sharply show any low areas

 

[Chief Brody]

Glazed and Wet sanded and final coat put on....Now what? do I leave that unsanded until ready to paint?

 

[ryoken]

yeah.. once all the body is ready and in primer, ya go back and do final sanding prep...

did the back corner come out ok? the shadows make it look funky in the pic...

 

[Chief Brody]

Yeah back corner is fine...the wetsanding really really makes it smooth....

 

[Chief Brody]

I've got at least 60 total hours in this if not more...but that's from the very beginning when I burned a bunch of hours just learning the first steps...I feel like I can go faster now...got to get that bumper and tailgate off so I can finish that quarter...

Should I treat the white stripe any different to the rest?

 

[ryoken]

nope.. just be aware that many times that inset color will be ANOTHER layer of paint on top of blue.... thick paint = bad...